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how many ways to take in a jacket's sides - Page 4

post #46 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

yes unc.
when the hip area is loose the vents must be re made.
notice that the edge of the vent is in a straight line with the side seam.
the new vend is alined the same way the original was made.
usually there is too much cloth to be turned inside.
so some must be cut off. but most tailors try to leave some extra cloth inside.
why? just in case.

Thank you for the explanation! I just remembered that I posted here smile.gif

I will likely be attempting to do this soon. I have two side-vented jackets that need to be brought in at the sides. I've done jackets with a center vent, but never with side vents.
post #47 of 54

This is a bit of a noobie question. Do you actually cut the material off the jacket or sow it up to take it in at the sides?

post #48 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Arthur View Post

This is a bit of a noobie question. Do you actually cut the material off the jacket or sow it up to take it in at the sides?

the new seam is sewn first. then the old seam is ripped open.
then the excess cloth is cut off. then the seam is pressed.
the amount cut off is a judgement call.
post #49 of 54
I don't think it's been mentioned, but what is the best way to open up the lining and access the seams? For example, for Plan A/B, do I open up the lining near those seams? Or should I open it up at top or bottom and turn the jacket inside out? Any diagrams / pics are appreciated, thanks!
post #50 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnin22 View Post

I don't think it's been mentioned, but what is the best way to open up the lining and access the seams? For example, for Plan A/B, do I open up the lining near those seams? Or should I open it up at top or bottom and turn the jacket inside out? Any diagrams / pics are appreciated, thanks!

sorry pnin22 but i only check the old tutorials every couple of months.

for the alterations on this tutorial the bottom is opened and easily be turned inside out.
this allows most parts of the inside to be reached.
sewing down the bottom of the lining is the easiest part of the job.
post #51 of 54

Just found this thread and would like to ask some questions. I have sloping and broad shoulders, I need to use a 44 jacket or something that have 19" from shoulder to shoulder seam. But my chest is not that big. My chest measures 42.5" so a 44 jacket looks big. My tailor what usually does is waist supression but according to plan A. I will like to see a bit more shape in the chest area, so I was thinking that the Plan C could work, cause he doesn't want to do the Plan D alteration. But my question is... can the chest be shaped with that alteration? If so, can it be like this:

 

 

Only the part above the pocket, so he doesn't need to remake the whole pocket? It's not that much. The bespoke jacket I have has 22" from pit to pit, the one that I have has the 22.5" from pit to pit, I will like to subract those 0.5" from the under arm seam to shape the chest a bit more. 

 

Thanks!

post #52 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Just found this thread and would like to ask some questions. I have sloping and broad shoulders, I need to use a 44 jacket or something that have 19" from shoulder to shoulder seam. But my chest is not that big. My chest measures 42.5" so a 44 jacket looks big. My tailor what usually does is waist supression but according to plan A. I will like to see a bit more shape in the chest area, so I was thinking that the Plan C could work, cause he doesn't want to do the Plan D alteration. But my question is... can the chest be shaped with that alteration? If so, can it be like this:
 



Only the part above the pocket, so he doesn't need to remake the whole pocket? It's not that much. The bespoke jacket I have has 22" from pit to pit, the one that I have has the 22.5" from pit to pit, I will like to subract those 0.5" from the under arm seam to shape the chest a bit more. 

Thanks!

you say this is a bespoke jacket . the seam that goes through the pocket usually has a little excess on the side of the seam that faces fore
ward. the side facing back only has just the seam. that means there may be something that can be let out. if too much is let out at that point
it cal lead to a distortion. so dont over do it. but in that area a small amount makes a big difference.talk it over with your tailor.

sorry now that i read this again, you want it to be taken in 1/2" not let out.
ok yes it can be taken in 1/2".this will be more than just using the under arm seam.
the front of the arm hole must be opened and taken in at the bottom to match
the amount taken in at the under seam. and tapper gradually toward the top of
the armhole.
one problem with taking in the chest, the breast pocket gets closer to the arm hole.
by the same amount the chest is taken in.
post #53 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

you say this is a bespoke jacket . the seam that goes through the pocket usually has a little excess on the side of the seam that faces fore
ward. the side facing back only has just the seam. that means there may be something that can be let out. if too much is let out at that point
it cal lead to a distortion. so dont over do it. but in that area a small amount makes a big difference.talk it over with your tailor.

sorry now that i read this again, you want it to be taken in 1/2" not let out.
ok yes it can be taken in 1/2".this will be more than just using the under arm seam.
the front of the arm hole must be opened and taken in at the bottom to match
the amount taken in at the under seam. and tapper gradually toward the top of
the armhole.
one problem with taking in the chest, the breast pocket gets closer to the arm hole.
by the same amount the chest is taken in.

Thanks!
post #54 of 54

Hey guys,

 

I just got me nice Boglioli sportscoat which is not following the curving of my back from under my shoulder blades to my seat, but more or less hangs down orthogonally due to my rather hollow lower back.

 

What would be the best way to alter in order to get the blazer curving closer to my lower back?

 

Cheers

NWAD

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