Here's the plan, let's use the underarm seam. It's closer to both the
front and closer to the side. That's a great idea, eh? ... as long as
we do the armhole thing again. Oh, oh, what's that horizontal line
cutting through the seam? It's the pocket, now what to do? The
solution is simple, but doing it is a big job and headache. The
pocket must be taken apart first, and then remade after the seam is
taken in. This adds a great deal to the cost, but with better effect.
What to do when the back and sides fit perfectly, but the front looks
like a maternity dress? It's true there is also a PLAN D.
Here's what we do. The dotted lines show how the front dart is taken
in. If there is no dart, one can be made. Taking in the dart works
well on a canvased coat, but on a fused job it may look a bit awkward,
that's because of the extra bulk of the fusing. In this case, the
pocket must be removed and re-made as before. The dart takes in above
the pocket. Below the pocket is done at the underarm seam. See the
offset of the seam. And no, that will not create lines of draw like
Plan D is often used for a person with a large chest and flat stomach.
Remember the more hours of work, the higher the cost, but then there's
no substitute for doing the correct alteration.