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how many ways to take in a jacket's sides

post #1 of 54
Thread Starter 
show details 9:17 PM (23 hours ago)
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Taking in the sides of an off the rack jacket:

The most common alteration on a jacket seems to be the sleeve length,
but we have beat that one to death.
The second is altering the sides. the easiest way is to take in the
center back seam, but that only works well is when the customer has a
narrow back and a flat seat, and that does not happen very often. So,
let's take a look at some of the different possibilities...

PLAN A
The side seams is the usual place to take in the body of the coat, but
note the side seam is located more toward the back rather than the
true side of the coat, but that is the most convenient seam to work
with.



If the amount to be taken in is small, the sewing stops just short of
the armhole (see the arrows at the armhole). If the amount taken in is
a great deal, then this part of the armhole must be opened to allow
the side seam to be finished cleanly. if the amount to be taken in is
large, the reduction concentrates mostly toward the back. That's
because that seam is closer to the back. If the looseness is near to
the back, that's fine. But, what if the looseness is more to the
front?
This calls for the one and only PLAN B. [this must be where the term came from].
So, let's go there.

PLAN B
Here's the plan. Since the looseness is more to the front, the cloth
is taken in at the front of the side seam. Yes, a seam can be taken in
or let out on one side only instead of both sides at the same time.
Taking in this way pulls in more at the front and less at the back.
See the first dotted line. We also may need to do the something at the
armhole, just like plan A.



If a great deal must be taken in at the front, then a problem may
arise, see the second dotted line. the amount of pull at that seam may
be so great that it creates lines of strain [pull]. See the dotted
line of arrows? This can often be seen on the coat itself. So, what to do?
Believe me, there is also a PLAN C.

PLAN C

Here's the plan, let's use the underarm seam. It's closer to both the
front and closer to the side. That's a great idea, eh? ... as long as
we do the armhole thing again. Oh, oh, what's that horizontal line
cutting through the seam? It's the pocket, now what to do? The
solution is simple, but doing it is a big job and headache. The
pocket must be taken apart first, and then remade after the seam is
taken in. This adds a great deal to the cost, but with better effect.



What to do when the back and sides fit perfectly, but the front looks
like a maternity dress? It's true there is also a PLAN D.

PLAN D

Here's what we do. The dotted lines show how the front dart is taken
in. If there is no dart, one can be made. Taking in the dart works
well on a canvased coat, but on a fused job it may look a bit awkward,
that's because of the extra bulk of the fusing. In this case, the
pocket must be removed and re-made as before. The dart takes in above
the pocket. Below the pocket is done at the underarm seam. See the
offset of the seam. And no, that will not create lines of draw like
Plan B.
Plan D is often used for a person with a large chest and flat stomach.



Each of these plans can be used single, or in pairs, or all of them
together depending on necessity. A weight lifter, for example, with a
small waist might need a C and D. If he had a flat seat, he may need
the center back seam taken in as well.

Remember the more hours of work, the higher the cost, but then there's
no substitute for doing the correct alteration.
post #2 of 54

Was thinking about this just last night.

And a completely noobie question (what isn't noobie coming from me): When doing these alterations from where should one open up the lining to get access to these seams?
post #3 of 54
Thread Starter 
in the title that was supposed to be "sides" not sidfs.
post #4 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blahman View Post

Was thinking about this just last night.

And a completely noobie question (what isn't noobie coming from me): When doing these alterations from where should one open up the lining to get access to these seams?

the entire bottom where the lining is fastened is available.
most tailors will open most of the bottom for easier access.
then close the lining bottom when finished with the alterations.
post #5 of 54
a tailor,

Could you post other techniques? or link them if you have posted before. These diagrams and illustrations help a lot.

By adjusting the sides, back seam, side or front, will it affect the balance?
post #6 of 54
I have a thread on here talking about an Alteration mistake. I bought a 44 instead of a 42 and my tailor should have read this thread. He actually should have advised me not to touch it but thats another story.

He actually worked on it twice and it came out quite skirty. Oh well, you live and you learn. I have learned a $260 lesson; buy something that fits in the chest shoulder and armholes and keep tailoring minimal.

If a lot of tailoring is desired; go bespoke
post #7 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jack220 View Post
a tailor,

Could you post other techniques? or link them if you have posted before. These diagrams and illustrations help a lot.

By adjusting the sides, back seam, side or front, will it affect the balance?

the alts shown will not affect the balance. its a different thing.
a jacket hangs from the shoulders, thats where the balance is adjusted.
if the bottom of the coat front kicks out, the front is short. the same would apply to the back.
post #8 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyhooks View Post
I have a thread on here talking about an Alteration mistake. I bought a 44 instead of a 42 and my tailor should have read this thread. He actually should have advised me not to touch it but thats another story.

He actually worked on it twice and it came out quite skirty. Oh well, you live and you learn. I have learned a $260 lesson; buy something that fits in the chest shoulder and armholes and keep tailoring minimal.

If a lot of tailoring is desired; go bespoke


thats a good rule. choose it for the shoulder fit.
post #9 of 54
post #10 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

did you fix the title for me?
post #11 of 54
What about using the center back seam?
post #12 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
What about using the center back seam?

Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
The second is altering the sides. the easiest way is to take in the
center back seam, but that only works well is when the customer has a
narrow back and a flat seat, and that does not happen very often. So,
let's take a look at some of the different possibilities...

..
post #13 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyhooks View Post
I have a thread on here talking about an Alteration mistake. I bought a 44 instead of a 42 and my tailor should have read this thread. He actually should have advised me not to touch it but thats another story.

He actually worked on it twice and it came out quite skirty. Oh well, you live and you learn. I have learned a $260 lesson; buy something that fits in the chest shoulder and armholes and keep tailoring minimal.

If a lot of tailoring is desired; go bespoke

You bought an ill-fitting, $160 sports coat. I would recommend buying a good-fitting, higher-quality RTW before "go[ing] bespoke." Something must give people the impression here that one must "go bespoke" to get a good-fitting jacket.

But you're right; you should have left the tags on the jacket, your tailor should have advised you to return it, and you'd have been out nothing but some time and inconvenience.

A Tailor -- I'd be interested in seeing the same discussion of 'options to let out a jacket.'
post #14 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
the alts shown will not affect the balance. its a different thing.
a jacket hangs from the shoulders, thats where the balance is adjusted.
if the bottom of the coat front kicks out, the front is short. the same would apply to the back.

So are you going to write how to adjust for balance?
post #15 of 54
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartolo View Post
You bought an ill-fitting, $160 sports coat. I would recommend buying a good-fitting, higher-quality RTW before "go[ing] bespoke." Something must give people the impression here that one must "go bespoke" to get a good-fitting jacket. But you're right; you should have left the tags on the jacket, your tailor should have advised you to return it, and you'd have been out nothing but some time and inconvenience. A Tailor -- I'd be interested in seeing the same discussion of 'options to let out a jacket.'
the only option on letting out is at the side seam and the center back. thats the only place there is any extra cloth inside. that means you can only have what the manufacture has given you. some are very skimpy and some are generous. oh yes and then theres lengthening the sleeves.
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