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Small Waist/Big Hips -> Suit Jacket?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, just received an indochino suit that was mostly wrong, sending back for a remake. Pants were too short, inseam too small, thighs to tight, etc.

My question though is more for body type in general. I'm 6'3 about 175, but all that weight is in my legs/ass. I have no chest, flat stomach, wide shoulders with skinny arms, but big hips/ass and upper legs. My waist is 33" and hips are 44 1/2". For tailoring, what is the best way to avoid looking like a woman in a pantsuit (for lack of a better term)? Even though my waist is 33", should I up this for the jacket to avoid the effect of the jacket coming in at the button, then flaring out at the hips?

Any advice appreciated.
post #2 of 17
A pic would help.
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Here are some shots. Obviously pants are too short and jacket sleeves too long.

Curious on thoughts on jacket waist/hip effect and jacket length?







post #4 of 17
I am 6ft 155lbs. and have the same general problem so I could use and answer too.
post #5 of 17
The shots with the coat open look better and dont acccentuate the hips so much.
Maybe a suit that is not so nipped in the waist is going to work better by minimizing tha waist/hips curve.
post #6 of 17
higher rise pants, double breasted jacket. that might work for you. in terms of this suit i have no clue.
post #7 of 17
You may want to incline toward a more relaxed fit on the jackets and try to avoid the hourglass tapering. The less pull on the mid section when the jacket is buttoned, the better, in order to achieve your desired results. Another thought is to not use your jacket or pants pockets. Keeping them empty, if possible, will give you better lines. Your jacket sleeves need to be raised 1/2" to show a sliver of shirt cuff. Lastly, and this will be breaking rules, but just as a test, fasten only the bottom button on the jacket and let's see if this alone may correct the problem asthetically.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I'm thinking of doing a few inches buffer on the waist so the lines comes down more evenly on the jacket. The 10" difference isn't doing wonders here, lol.

Thoughts on jacket length?
post #9 of 17
iminurbase, I think you know this but it has to be said to ensure we're all clear: that suit looks like shit (I could go into the technical details but I won't as there are so many faults I don't even know where to begin and based on your post I think you already know that it doesn't fit right). Please do these two things and you will look much better:
  1. Stop Buying Indochino Suits (this doesn't apply to you specifically but everyone on SF in general): There is very little intelligent discussion left on this site. Those capable of intelligent discussion generally see "Indochino Suit" and move on without wasting their breath. That leaves people who have no idea what they're talking about to comment. So half of the comments come from those who have bought Indochino suits. When they say an Indochino suit "looks good" what they're really saying is "more or less fits as well as my Indochino" which translates to "looks like crap." The other half are simply too green to offer a real critique. (Note: I recognize the irony of me posting in this thread... I'm in a good mood tonight so I will humor you). I'm a fan of online MTM shirts. That said, I would never buy an online MTM suit or sportcoat. No one should. Suits and sportcoats are 100x more complex than shirts. Based on the vast amount of pictorial evidence submitted to this site there is a 1/100 chance that you'll get a "wearable without ridicule" suit or sportcoat from a an online MTM company. And "wearable without ridicule" is not what you should be aiming for.
  2. Extended Shoulder + Little Waist Suppression = Win: Whereas everyone should abide by #1, this is specific to you. As stated in your OP, you want to look like a man (yes, that suit presents a womanly silhouette). This means you should aim for a "V"shaped torso silhouette (where the top of the V is your shoulders and the bottom is your waist/hip area). Your shoulders are slim relative to your hips. Thus you need to extend the shoulders off your natural shoulder line. And your hips are big relative to the waist which calls for minimal waist suppression. Waist suppression will only highlight your big hips.
/thread
post #10 of 17
With all due respect, that suit fits like SHIT. (you cant get mad at me because i said "With all due respect" first) As stated above wider shoulders and less waist supression would suit your body type better. When i first saw the pics i thought it was a woman wearing a suit due to how that thing fits.
post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc4golf View Post
[*]Extended Shoulder + Little Waist Suppression = Win: Whereas everyone should abide by #1, this is specific to you. As stated in your OP, you want to look like a man (yes, that suit presents a womanly silhouette). This means you should aim for a "V"shaped torso silhouette (where the top of the V is your shoulders and the bottom is your waist/hip area).

While I agree with you I got to say you do know what you're describing has manly is just the top half of a very womanly hourglass?

He needs to minimize his hips . Just increasing the shoulders will make him more hourglass.
post #12 of 17
This is why buying a "Custom Suit" online generally doesn't work unless you are a stock size.
An experienced fitter would know what to do to the pattern and use the correct model. Just plugging in measurements rarely results in a good fit.
post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by iminurbase View Post
Yeah, I'm thinking of doing a few inches buffer on the waist so the lines comes down more evenly on the jacket. The 10" difference isn't doing wonders here, lol.

Thoughts on jacket length?

The overall jacket length looks fine.
post #14 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the feedback. One note on MTM and indochino; I've tried to buy OTR before, but something about my frame/long arms/etc. makes the results pretty bad. This is really why I though MTM would be a better fit for me. In terms of the suit, I'm just looking for something to wear at a wedding or Christmas party once or twice a year (work is jeans and t-shirts). I'll try to be clear with the remake and see what I get.
post #15 of 17
You might want to consider starting an upper-body centric weight training program... If you can get your upper body bigger/wider you can buy a suit with a bit less waist suppression and still maintain a V-taper it appears you are trying to achieve now.
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