Quote:
Originally Posted by
Baron 
It cuts both ways - if you make a name for yourself as a big wave rider you get sponsorships and can start to make real money. This guy was just starting to get that kind of notoriety, so I'm sure that plays into it. Firefighters and cops have families too, though that's not really a perfect analogy.
I hear what you're saying. My whole family surfs, and I understand how making money at something you love so much can be a huge pull, but that's not the feeling I got when I read his quote:
Quote:
"I love being out on the ocean, not just the freedom that we get just being out there," Milosky told abstractlines.tv in November. "I would love to spend the next couple years searching and, like, maybe trying to really catch the biggest wave. That's like an insane feeling."
He said he wanted to "have fun surfing while I'm still young."
You're 35 with two kids, you're not "still young" IMO...and you shouldn't be surfing Maverick's.
Anyway, to be honest, probably some of my criticism is coming from the fact that I know people like him, good friends in fact, who risk their lives surfing big waves because it's a rush and a challenge, even though they have kids. But I didn't know Milosky, so I'll shut up now, and just say with all due respect, RIP.