Hi all, I'm back
Anyway, regarding my comments on the shirt --- the biggest problem I have was the fabric and lack of house style. Â Between me and Thracozaag, we have pretty much tried shirts from every major makers, and each one is unique. Â Jantzen could do pretty much anything you ask, as long as it can be produced by machine, and that bothers me. Â It is not merely a matter of machine-made or hand-made (there are great shirtmakers on both ends) but a complete lack of recognizable style --- every custom shirts from Kiton to Turnbull, though with the same measurements, will look entirely different, as these are houses with their individuality; otherwise, no one will order shirts from them and all will go to Jantzen instead. Â Individuality reflects the philosophy of a maker. For example, you may complain that the Neapolitans do not do pattern matching on the shoulders very well... well, if that's what is of utmost importance to you, then don't get a Neapolitan shirt. Â However, you can't deny the craftsmanship the Neapolitans put into attaching the armhole, which the English can't match. Â While the English insist on the necessity of pattern matching, the Neapolitans insist on a great many other things, and that gives individuality to these guys. Â Kiton doesn't offer any other buttons except the undyed MOP, Borrelli has buttons of one thickness, so are Turnbull and Hilditch; and picking a shirt for you is to choose which style works best, instead of commanding the tailor to do everything. Â I know this may further bring on arguments, but an equivalent to this obstination is when you commission Beethoven to compose a piece exactly like Bach ... it's impossible. Â Beethoven will always write like Beethoven, and Bach will always sound Bach. Â So is Bach a better compose than Beethoven?.? Â An actual example may be found in Prokofiev's "Classical" symphony. Â It's classical, yet unmistably Prokofiev.
i don't see how naturlaut can say the fabric looks stiff if he only saw it inside a plastic bag. Â i think it's best not to compare jantzen shirts to expensive custom shirts, but to the rtw shirts so many men buy. i have all my custom shirts made in the exact same style, and i like to wear my own design. i know naturlaut likes kiton shirts, but if i wore one of those, i'd feel like i was wearing some generic design that every man in italy is wearing right now. i watch italian television, and when something is in style, it seems everybody follows it.
My opinions on Jantzen shirt was not a comparison with any one else - where in the 'review' do you see me mentioning Borrelli or Charvet? I like different shirtmakers for their own specialty, not just Kiton, and Kiton is not generic either --- have you made a comparison even between the Neapolitans from Kiton to Borrelli to Barba? Â Whether others follow a certain style is of no concern to me, moreover, you can put this argument to any other point of styling: you are bound to be choosing something that others are already wearing. Â Also, I did take the shirt out from the bag, otherwise how could I see the armhole and the monogram?
I strongly believe that machine stitching is the way to go with shirts. Â
I wouldn't exactly lean completely on machine stitching or hand stitching, as each has its own merits. Â However, I haven't had any problems with Borrelli or Kiton, on the other hand, I have threads coming loose from machine-stitched shirts ... Â In any case, as long as you don't step foot in these Neapolitan makers, you have a wide selection of machine-made shirts. My final comment: if you have not yet the courage (and in my case, the accumulated wealth) to try makers from the bigger houses, Jantzen is a good choice for a custom shirt. Â Picking the fabric may be tricky, but you can get pretty much anything you want; they won't say no to any styling eccentricities from you. Â However, other options exist if you have doubts about Jantzen, namely getting a good ready-made from Kiton to Zegna Napoli Couture and have them altered to fit you. Â Kiton tailors are happy to remodel the whole shirt to fit you, and Zegna Napoli Couture even does it for free in Hong Kong (a one to two month wait): they could alter the body, and sleeves (of course), the sleeve buttons according to thickness of your wrist, and even the shoulders --- and if you like, put a little monogram on the shirt too ... and rest assured, these Kiton or Napoli Couture monogram are all beautifully hand embroidered.