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Germanicos- Bespoke Suits - Page 6

post #76 of 79
Well folks I am going to renew this thread. Ordered a Germanicos "gold' package suit. $2200. Lots of measurements done but not by the actual tailor. First (only?) fitting happening in two days time. Now, I've had plenty of real bespoke made before eg Cutler, Zink etc. So you'll get an honest unbiased view. At this time my working hypothesis is that it's 'semi bespoke' ie I did get to choose style that you can't with MTM but the process does seem truncated.

We shall see.
post #77 of 79
Well, the suit arrived and I had a fitting on Saturday.

Not too bad in terms of fit, although a standard issue with my shoulder wasn't addressed.

Style - not what I wanted, too fitted and button stance too high. But I won't hold it against them for a first suit with a new tailor.

Construction - sees OK.

Overall:
This is a semi-bespoke service. It goes beyond MTM in terms of flexibility and fit. But its not a full, painstaking, bespoke process, with, especially, a missing first fitting having impact.

Would I go there again? Not at the $2200 (Gold) rate. Maybe at the Silver ($1600) rate. The main difference being that the Silver is mainly constructed in Portugal, as opposed to Melbourne for the Gold and above. Given that I'm not in Melbourne, it doesn't really bother me whether the work's done there or not.

But its not all over yet - lets wait and see how the suit wears and what, if any, after service is provided if problems develop,
post #78 of 79

I also had a casual shirt made by Germanicos. 

The first shirt for a customer must be the "premium" option which is ~$290 AUD

 

My consultation was with Michael Tellis.

 

I was after something inherently casual and good for winter, I flipped through all of the fabric books and opted for a heavyweight grey oxford fabric with irregularities from one of the books they don't use too often. I'm not sure of the weight, but I think it's at least 6.5oz, maybe heavier.

 

Michael said I was the first customer to ask for a shirt that wouldn't be worn with a suit or jacket, and also the first to order a heavyweight shirting fabric. He admitted they'd never ordered the fabric I chose before.

 

I believe 14 or 15 measurements were taken, as well as photos of front back and both sides. I chose the options I wanted on their iPad app, and Michael suggested I go with their "Regular fit" and suggested black stitching for the buttonholes.

I'm not 100% sure if my shirt was made in Melbourne or not, but Michael did say that their offsite inhouse tailors are located in Pascoe Vale.

It took 5 weeks for the shirt to be completed. 

I asked for Mother of Pearl buttons, but instead I was given black on white pearlescent buttons made from a resin (I think). I can see why they were chosen as they match the shirt and the black buttonhole stitching. I would have preferred the use of a natural material but I didn't explicitly state that.

 

The shirt seems well constructed. French seams, very neat stitching and good stitch density. The collar and cuff are quite stiff from the french fuse they used and there is also french fuse used in the placket.

 

Michael said that I should take the shirt home, wear it and wash it a few times before coming back for adjustments. 

 

Unfortunately out of the box, the shirt armholes are too high and cause a few issues with arm movement. It's also too tight in the chest and upper back. The fabric itself is quite stiff and doesn't have much give to it, I haven't worn it out yet but I'm going to give it a few wears over the coming weeks and then take it back.

Michael did say that if I wasn't happy with the shirt, that they'd make me another one - so I will probably be going back in and asking for that because of the overall tightness. Now at least I know what I want the most - full range of arm movement. I will report back after I go in for "adjustments" and see what they're willing to do.

 

I agree with mzmart about this being a semi-bespoke service. They do say they make a pattern from scratch, however the cutter and shirt maker are not the same person and at least for a shirt, for non-VIP customers, there is no fitting - just measurements and final product plus adjustments. As I said I have not been in for my adjustments yet, so I will let you guys know how that goes after I go see them again. 

My preference would be for the pieces that need to be re-made to be remade with a lower armhole, more room in the chest and upper back, more tapering at the lower back and I think due to the fabric weight, I will wear the shirt out instead of tucked, so a shorter hem at the back.
 

post #79 of 79
Just to round this off. Shoulder fixed and suit taken home. Nice enough final fit. Got the style a bit wrong but that's my fault for not being insistent. Yeah Ok overall. But ......a bit overpriced. Overall rating 7/10.
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