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CBD WAYWRN: An Experiment - Page 331

post #4951 of 6978
Same suit, robo pose. To be honest, I'd like to slim the pants a bit more, and add just a bit more waist suppression. The as-is of the RLPL seems too roomy to me. Not sure if it's a "look" but I prefer just a smidge more.

Also: different shirt/tie.

Click for hugeness.

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post #4952 of 6978
^^I think that the waist looks good as is, I wouldn't touch it. I don't like the lapels and the buttoning point but other than that, it looks very good.
post #4953 of 6978
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

I don't like the lapels and the buttoning point.

Tell me more about this.

I personally wish the gorge was higher, but gorge height will eventually go lower, so that doesn't bother me too much. I can live with it.
post #4954 of 6978
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post


Tell me more about this.

I personally wish the gorge was higher, but gorge height will eventually go lower, so that doesn't bother me too much. I can live with it.

I think that the buttoning point is too high (for my taste), lapel shape is weird but I can't quite put my fingers on it.I think that the gorge is too low and makes them outdated. What do you mean that the gorge height will eventually go lower?
post #4955 of 6978
Currently the going gorge height for jackets is high, like clavicle high. I like it myself (especially since I'm relatively short), but it will eventually go lower. Hopefully not back to 80s era ridiculousness, but a happy medium. This particular jacket, while not as high as current standards, is well within the norm.

Actually, now that I think about it: I should have chosen a less spread collar. The ends of a point collar would meet the gorge. As it is, the eyes follow the lines of the spread collar, and the gorge is lower.

Oh well. confused.gif
post #4956 of 6978
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post


Tell me more about this.

I personally wish the gorge was higher, but gorge height will eventually go lower, so that doesn't bother me too much. I can live with it.

Here's an image stolen from Rubinacci's blog. The gorge isn't that much higher, but the buttoning point is slightly lower, the angle of the gorge is more vertical, and the lapel is probably a bit narrower. The whole effect is more vertical and upswept. Somewhere there is a fairly good thread where there are comparisons of Foo and Iamatt Rubinacci DBs.

4LPmn.jpg

Here's a good thread on DBs at LL: http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7665
post #4957 of 6978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

The whole effect is more vertical and upswept.

Ah, I see. Good comparison pic. Thanks.
post #4958 of 6978
UC, the Chan suit looked great imo. You might do what I've been doing and direct all your money to them. laugh.gif

Fwiw, I'd leave the pants of the DB suit as is. It looks to me as though the waist has already been taken in a bit, causing the front creases to move toward the outside. Or maybe that was caused by the legs being slimmed from the outside hems only. I agree w/ you and gdl that the first shirt above isn't great. Finally, I'm not sure I'd wear such a thick, wintery tie w/ that suit. It'd go great w/ a tweed jacket though.
post #4959 of 6978
UC, is that a made in England RLPL. if so, have you tried buttoning it as a 6 x 1. I think it is supposed to be worn as a 6x 1 even though it has 2 buttonholes with the upper buttonhole rolling with the lapel
post #4960 of 6978
Quote:
Originally Posted by octavian View Post

I can't find the point where he says the first shirt is bad... *snip* If you can't put out a solid argument against it, then the reality is that you don't know what you are talking about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Comments appreciated. I agree with you about the shirt but gave it one last wear before letting it go down in flames. Not sure what you mean about the suit proportions. This one's not a Chan but a RLPL from their uber-English era.

Take it easy, man. This is (or should be) a friendly conversation.
post #4961 of 6978
The collar of the shirt is fine, so I'm not sure what gdl is saying regarding that particular point, but the truth is I'm not much of a fan of shirts where the stripes are so far apart. I have another shirt that I don't wear for the exact same reason. Stripes are too thick & spaced out to be worn with a suit. For a sport shirt, it's fine.

aj_del, it is indeed a made in England RLPL, and seems to want to roll to the bottom button, However the boxi-ness just seems even more pronounced, strangely enough. Personally, I like wasp-waisted DBs, since the lack of a "cutaway" at the bottom (for lack of more accurate terminology) seems to cut me off. Therefore I think I might add more waist suppression.

emptym, I hear you about the front creases - that bugs me to no end. I've fixed it like you said, by having the tailor take in the pants from the inside seam, and I'll probably do that here. Also, good call on the tie - next time I'll try a grenadine. Sometimes, though, I like the contrast that a thick wooly tie gives with paired with such a "city" suit.

Also, I'm saving up for Mina wink.gif
post #4962 of 6978
UC: Mina's stuff is beautiful, and I really enjoyed meeting her. I've been wondering if I should switch to her too... But so far, I'm very happy with the value of Chan and their willingness to bear w/ my pickiness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by octavian View Post




I can't find the point where he says the first shirt is bad...Please, expound on the deficiencies of the first shirt.  I am not being facetious, rather I am genuinely curious as to what faults you see with the shirt--faults that would lead you to agreeing to its plain ugliness.  If you can't put out a solid argument against it, then the reality is that you don't know what you are talking about. 


Sugarbutch pointed out where UC agreed about the shirt. Thanks, SB.

To answer your second question: First of all, ugliness is mainly subjective, so one needn't necessarily have a reason. Secondly, one needn't know why one is right to be right. And thirdly, one can be right and know the reason for it, but not be able to articulate it. Consequently, you might want to drop the petty, combative tone.

That said, in this case, I have a reason, I know what it is, and I'm not only able but willing to articulate it. The reason I don't like the shirt is that the stripes on the collar point downwards, rather than run more parallel to the top of the collar, as the collars of striped shirts tend to do:

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Btw, please notice that I wrote, "more" parallel to the top. I'm aware that stripes do not and should not run perfectly parallel to the top of the collar. I believe strong slant here is due to the maker's desire to have the stripes be at right angles to the edges the spread collar. The wideness of the stripes probably makes it more noticeable. These may not be good reasons iyo for disliking the collar, but they are my reasons.

UC, now I'm curious. Would you mind letting us know who make's the shirt? Sorry if you've already mentioned it and I've missed it.
post #4963 of 6978
Don't know whether it is the combination of button placement and low gorge, but the jacket looks short on you UC.
post #4964 of 6978
Ich, I once had a discussion with Vox about the length of DBs. Personally I like DBs to be a little longer than normal, because of the way they finish horizontally. Since the top half is naturally wider (due to the shoulders), then if the length of the jacket precisely cuts you in half, visually the top half looks bulky. So I like to have the jacket a bit longer. This particular one, tho, cuts me exactly in half, so it looks short. If I could lengthen it, I would frown.gif

Shirt is an 8-year-old Valentino.
post #4965 of 6978
Octavian, be quiet for, say, six months and then come back and join the conversation.
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