Originally Posted by quar
I don't know that you always get to deal directly with the cutter when dealing with a bespoke operation. I have no idea who cut my WW Chan pattern, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't Patrick (the person who I dealt with directly). I think the benefit of bespoke is more so in the multiple fittings available (to iron out details such as buttoning stance, jacket length, the fit of the shoulders, the fit of the collar), and the endless customisation available. I think this applies even with the high-end operations. Mariano Rubinacci certainly doesn't personally cut mafoofan or whnay's coats, but he certainly is the person overseeing the ordering and fitting process. I do take your point though, as it would be easier for the fitter to communicate with the cutter when they work under the same roof.
There's nothing wrong with high-end MTM. I've used such services before, and I no doubt will again. However, I've also gone full bespoke, and I can tell you, if you can afford it, it's a whole new experience, and those who haven't experienced it can't really comment on the differences between the two. And yes, there are some bespoke outfits where you don't deal directly with the cutter (especially if you're utilising their travelling tailor service), but you'll find with most you do. And there are huge benefits to that, believe me. But naturally, the expense of such is prohibitive for many, and I well understand that.
Originally Posted by stateless
That's very true. However, as with many things, sadly, we have to choose the level of cost and service we're happy with - as you mention. Most on these fora are happy to pay more for something beyond OTR, but fewer are able (or willing) to pay for true bespoke. P. Johnson, like all MTM operations, is limited in what they're able to customize, but while I can't talk to the cutter, a person like Tom brings more than just a measuring tape. Their knowledge of cut, fabric, colour and proportion are valuable even if they don't work in the same building as the cutter.
As I said last week and above, I realise full bespoke is cost prohibitive for many here. A high-end MTM outfit is a good alternative, I quite agree. Such places depend on good communication between the person measuring/servicing you and the cutter/suit maker, and that's sometimes not easy, especially when you're dealing across countries/cultures. P Johnson seems to be doing a good job, though, so it's all good.