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Bernhard Roetzel's Latest Thoughts on Shoes - Page 2

post #16 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanC
What's wrong with saddle shoes?

see below.
post #17 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanC
What's wrong with saddle shoes?

Nothing at all. But pretending it's part of the essentials in any gentleman's wardrobe makes any person following his instructions look out of the place in Europe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pejsek
What's wrong with home clothing?

Nothing, I do myself wear "old-fashioned" pajamas and all the like. But the chapter in the book would make you think smoking cigars in pajamas is part of the daily life of all gentlemen around the world ...
post #18 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibo
Nothing at all. But pretending it's part of the essentials in any gentleman's wardrobe makes any person following his instructions look out of the place in Europe.

But he calls them "American classics" and notes that they never caught on in Europe... He even concludes by stating, "Some may say that if you can get away with wearing saddle shoes in Europe, you can get away with anything. It certainly requires a great deal of confidence to wear such shoes on almost any occasion."
post #19 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by muelleran
You did mention the forum to Roetzel? Perhaps he would like to contribute?

I did mention this forum to him. I tried to tempt him with links to the high end shoe thread for example. I guess it's a question of time and energy. I got a lot more out the questions I put to him because it's just faster for him to write in German. His email reply on shoes reply ended with something like "Really hungry - gotta go grab a bite to eat". If he were writing back to me in English I would have got much more limited answers especially if he was in a hurry. Even I haven't posted at all to Dailyshoes in German because it takes me longer to write in German and I don't know a lot of technical terms in that language yet eg corrected grain leather.

Anyway I have started a 10 Questions for Bernhard Roetzel thread by popular demand over at AAAC if anyone is interested.
post #20 of 26
I like how Roetzel incorporates various lifestyle aspects into style as opposed to the Flusser texts. However, on the Andy forum there was written that Roetzel's book was very bizzare; I think it was Alexander Kabbaz.
post #21 of 26
I don`t now much about Mr. Roetzel himself. I have the book. It's good for beginners and a good introduction into the "shoe business".

Besides I prefer the Vass book and "Das neue Männerbuch" from Reinhard Haas and Axel Thorer. www.thorer.com Although it has been published by Bertlsmann, am afraid there is no edition available anymore. Also don't know if it exists an english version.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator
Roetzel: The ready to wear Vass shoes are OK but their bespoke shoes cannot be compared with the famous London, Parisian and Viennese bespoke shoemakers. For the last couple of years I myself have come to prefer shoes by Eduard Meier:

Vass shoes are more than ok. If he can do "holzgenagelt", sole is fixed with small wooden nails, am looking forward to have a pair of bespoke Budapester from him.

Have some shoes from small Hungarian shoemakers:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ghlight=maftei

So i can say, they know their job very well.

Regarding Eduard Meier: I have been told, that if you start with the Peduform Last of Meier you "cannot" go back. Would be a smart explanation why he prefers them.

Roetzel. Vienna: Ludwig Reiter is sadly that not as good as it used to be.

I agree that.

For RTW shoes in Vienna visit: Balint, Maftei(they also provide bespoke service).
"Alt Wien", www.alt-wien.com, Handmacher, www.handmacher.at, and Lendvay&Schwarcz http://www.franceschetti.it/franceschetti.htm are very good brands too.

Greetings from Austria.
post #22 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl

Have some shoes from small Hungarian shoemakers:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ghlight=maftei

So i can say, they know their job very well.

Regarding Eduard Meier: I have been told, that if you start with the Peduform Last of Meier you "cannot" go back. Would be a smart explanation why he prefers them.

Roetzel. Vienna: Ludwig Reiter is sadly that not as good as it used to be.

I agree that.

For RTW shoes in Vienna visit: Balint, Maftei(they also provide bespoke service).
"Alt Wien", www.alt-wien.com, Handmacher, www.handmacher.at, and Lendvay&Schwarcz http://www.franceschetti.it/franceschetti.htm are very good brands too.

Greetings from Austria.

Grüß Gott Fritzl!

I saw and enjoyed your post on Hungarian shoemakers. I strongly welcome your local knowledge of the small remnants of a great Austro-Hungarian tradition in shoemaking.

Of course you will be aware of the following book:

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/3894...924534?ie=UTF8

My copy is on the way to Australia right now. All German reading forumites take note!

Tell us more about this Peduform last from Meier.

I have heard a few good things about some Warsaw shoemakers such as Kielman, and Kaminski - though there are apparently others. Have you any experience with them? Also is there nothing in the Czech Republic - another former part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire?
post #23 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl
Regarding Eduard Meier: I have been told, that if you start with the Peduform Last of Meier you "cannot" go back.
Eduard Maier's "Peduform" range is based on a banana last, just as the last 323 in the Alt-Wien collection is a banana last as well:
Conventional last
Banana last

Comparing the two Alt-Wien shoes, see how on the banana last, the tip of the shoe moves closer towards the inside edge, leaving the inside more or less straight with the outside rather (banana-like) curved. Banana lasts are as old as the hills and there has always been a heavy debate which shape is the better one. I used to believe, that the Firm of Scheer in Vienna
http://www.scheer.at/

had "invented" the banana last, but apparently I was wrong. Mr Scheer vehemently declared the banana last to be all wrong and that his firm had never used it in their almost 200 years of history.

Probably it's horses for courses, the banana shape might be better for some feet, the conventional last for others.

By the way, Maier's Peduform range als well as the Alt-Wien shoes, come out of the same factory: Crockett & Jones in Northampton, England
post #24 of 26
Roetzels book must be quite widely distributed. I have a translation into Danish and if it is translated into Danish I preasume also into many other European languages. If it is weel known in AAAC it is also weel known in the US among people with interest in fine clothing.

Roetzels book aroused my interest in quality clothing and shoes and I still like to leaf through it from time to time
post #25 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Niels
Roetzels book must be quite widely distributed. I have a translation into Danish and if it is translated into Danish I preasume also into many other European languages. If it is weel known in AAAC it is also weel known in the US among people with interest in fine clothing.

Roetzels book aroused my interest in quality clothing and shoes and I still like to leaf through it from time to time

My version is in Italian and was bought in Milan in 1999.
post #26 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
Grüß Gott Fritzl!

I saw and enjoyed your post on Hungarian shoemakers. I strongly welcome your local knowledge of the small remnants of a great Austro-Hungarian tradition in shoemaking.

Of course you will be aware of the following book:

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/3894...924534?ie=UTF8

My copy is on the way to Australia right now. All German reading forumites take note!

Tell us more about this Peduform last from Meier.

I have heard a few good things about some Warsaw shoemakers such as Kielman, and Kaminski - though there are apparently others. Have you any experience with them? Also is there nothing in the Czech Republic - another former part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire?

I just bought a pair of 9.5EEE black pebble grain longwings with bentivegna or goyser(not sure) welt made in Czechoslovakia.
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