Split yolk function on shirts

3) Another argument you will often hear is that split yokes provide for a better fit. I’ve been scratching my head over this argument for awhile. I suppose it’s possible that a really advanced bespoke tailor on Jermyn street would adjust the different sides of the yoke to accommodate for some unevenness in the shoulders and that that this could potentially provide for a better fit. But this is risky stuff. While an asymmetrical shirt might actually fit its owner better, it also might actually exaggerate the appearance of the person’s asymmetry. Furthermore, no made-to-measure shirt makers I know (including Proper Cloth) take this into account. Basically, we make the split yoke the exact same shape of the one piece yoke.

Now, the other day I was talking to an old tailor and FINALLY, I was given an argument that actually makes sense.

To understand this reason, you first need to understand how woven cottons stretch. If you have a dress shirt made from 100% cotton (most dress shirt fabric), you'll notice that the fabric has threads running both vertically (warp) and horizontally (weft). For most high quality woven cottons, the fabric will not stretch very much at all if you try to stretch it vertically, or if you try to stretch it horizontally. However, if you try to stretch it diagonally it stretches pretty easily. (Go ahead - I can wait...)

So, the real benefit of the split yoke is that by rotating the fabrics to the angled orientation, we are basically adding stretch to the yoke across it's width! I can see how this could make a real difference in comfort. When you're tying your shoes, or driving a car, or lots of other every day activities, you put pressure on the yoke and if it is a split yoke it will stretch to accommodate your movement better. You learn something every day.

Now, the other day I was talking to an old tailor and FINALLY, I was given an argument that actually makes sense.

To understand this reason, you first need to understand how woven cottons stretch. If you have a dress shirt made from 100% cotton (most dress shirt fabric), you'll notice that the fabric has threads running both vertically (warp) and horizontally (weft). For most high quality woven cottons, the fabric will not stretch very much at all if you try to stretch it vertically, or if you try to stretch it horizontally. However, if you try to stretch it diagonally it stretches pretty easily. (Go ahead - I can wait...)

So, the real benefit of the split yoke is that by rotating the fabrics to the angled orientation, we are basically adding stretch to the yoke across it's width! I can see how this could make a real difference in comfort. When you're tying your shoes, or driving a car, or lots of other every day activities, you put pressure on the yoke and if it is a split yoke it will stretch to accommodate your movement better. You learn something every day.