Do you guys generally leave your shoes on a shoe rack or what not, or in the cloth bags? Does it matter?
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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 607post #9091 of 151914/27/14 at 9:10am
Styleforum Top Pickspost #9092 of 151914/27/14 at 9:45amQuote:Originally Posted by PCK1
they're in pretty rough shape...looks like shoe trees were never used
creasing is pretty bad...especially in places where it shouldn't be
put shoe trees in them...brush really thoroughly with a horsehair brush...and give them a good polishing with some dark brown wax paste...
not sure there is much more that can be done for them...
creasing won't improve...
Thanks for yr advice. hat do you think could have created the problem - feet too big? improper shoe trees? storage?Quote:
not sure what you mean? I thought testoni was a quality brand?post #9093 of 151914/27/14 at 11:51am
Do you need to be selective finding a cobbler to replace your heels and toppying soles??
Shoe repair guy who visits my office replaced soles on goodyear welted shoes by simply gluing new soles on. I wouldn't go back to him for a sole replacement, but I'm considering using him to simply replace heels and toppy a couple of pairs of nice shoes. Is there any way he could mess those up, or any need to find someone else?post #9094 of 151914/27/14 at 3:33pmQuote:
They used low quality leather.Quote:Originally Posted by yls2012
Do you need to be selective finding a cobbler to replace your heels and toppying soles??
Shoe repair guy who visits my office replaced soles on goodyear welted shoes by simply gluing new soles on. I wouldn't go back to him for a sole replacement, but I'm considering using him to simply replace heels and toppy a couple of pairs of nice shoes. Is there any way he could mess those up, or any need to find someone else?
Replacing heels, no. Putting on a new top lift is an relatively easy job as long as the heel stack leathers are not damaged. If the heel stack is damaged and require repair, than its a different story.
Topy, yes. Usually cobblers need to sand down a thin layer of leather sole before they glue on the topy to ensure the proper balance.post #9095 of 151914/27/14 at 6:58pmpost #9096 of 151914/27/14 at 9:53pmI have a quick question. I have some BURTS BEES beeswax hand cream. I was wondering if I could use that as a type of conditioner on shoes. It comes in a round tin like shoe wax has the consistency of shoe wax but a little more creamy ( think warm wax). Its uses as per the lable are "for hard working hands work into hands to prevent cracking and return hands to a soft supple condition, perfect after gardening , construction etc......"i just want to condition a pair of Clarks desert boots I got which seem a bit thirsty. And out of curiosity could this be useful for dress shoes? Thanks
P.s. my reasoning is most shoe care products arr beeswax based and all I want to do is rehydrate my boots not clean them (they are new) so I dont want to use my S. Reno. I know they are cheap shoes but I still want to care for them.post #9097 of 151914/28/14 at 1:41am
I would imagine that your Clark's desert boots are made of suede. It is unusual to put cream on suede. You would be better off with a suede brush.
If you are talking about your dress shoes, why not pop out and buy a tin of shoe polish? I doubt that you would use Cherry Blossom on your hands so why use hand cream on your shoes?post #9098 of 151914/28/14 at 1:49am@Munky some are sude however the ones I have are not they are just a dark brown leather. . I do have wax and creams for my shoes im not trying to find a cheap alternative I was just curious as wax and polish is bees wax based and the Burts is ment to basically condition so I just wondered. . That amd im looking fpr a pure conditioner for the boots not a clean/con like my S.ren. and since I have the burts laying around you know but as far as the dress shoes I was just wondering. If the burts conditions skin amd is bees wax would it work for shoes which is also skim amd uses beswax based products.post #9099 of 151914/28/14 at 1:58ampost #9100 of 151914/28/14 at 2:04ampost #9101 of 151914/28/14 at 8:02ampost #9102 of 151914/28/14 at 10:37ampost #9103 of 151914/28/14 at 10:50amI have done some research lately and I would like to share some things that I have learned about leather and leather care. Now, this is just how I understand it and I could be a bit off, but if @glenjay, @DWFII, @RIDER or @Stirling have anything to add that would be awesome.
The protein fibers of leather are amphoteric. This means they can take on characteristics of either an acid or a base when exposed to such solutions thus is sensitive to ph. The stuff in leather, that make it leather such as the tanning agents, fats, waxes, oils and dyes and such typically have a negative charge therefore in order for these "things" that keep the leather from reverting to rawhide, or drying out and cracking need to be oppositely charged (ionic positive) for them to "accept" each other. When something comes into contact with the leather that is a higher ph (more basic, or simply the fats, oils, waxes oxidize) the ph sensitive protein fibers get shifted to ionic negative due to the influence of the higher ph. What is does it repel the tanning agents, fats, oils, and waxes kind of like when you put two poles of a magnet together, they push each other apart. So what does this mean?
When leather gets wet (or is neglected it is continually exposed to the atmosphere) in order for the protein fibers to be able to accept conditioning agents it has to be shifted back to ionic positive using something acidic. This is why cleaners that are somewhat acidic (d-limonene that contains citric acid and diluted turpentine) are actually good for leather because it keeps the protein fibers ionic positive and able to accept the tanning agents and conditioners.
Recall the disposal of Krazy 8 in Breaking Bad?
So given all of this, it is quite possible that my alleged bad experience with reno could have been because I used it after rainfall and most of the time, didn't bother to add polish back to the shoes. Rider, says that it is water based. This does make sense then. Because the leather after rainfall wasn't properly ph balanced before applying reno the protein fibers "repelled" the oils in reno.
Other's who claim to just polish and use reno sparingly with good results might be getting good results because both cream polish and wax polish contains turpentine, which could shift the leather fiber's ph back to acidic and allow it to accept the other conditioning properties of the polish.
Edited by patrickBOOTH - 4/28/14 at 1:00pmpost #9104 of 151914/28/14 at 1:45pmthese just came in the mail and I have a few questions 1) my reg shoe trees dont fit at all do I have to size down or is there a known specific tree that will fit. (Shoes are AE neumok 5last I sized down from 10.5D to 10D ) logic tellae just buy a smaller tree but because of the varying lasts of AE figured id ask. 2) should only clear cream and wax be used since it has contrast stitching?, again logic tells me yes. Thanks again !! I hope im posting in the right thread 😅post #9105 of 151914/28/14 at 2:55pmQuote:Originally Posted by Craft
these just came in the mail and I have a few questions 1) my reg shoe trees dont fit at all do I have to size down or is there a known specific tree that will fit. (Shoes are AE neumok 5last I sized down from 10.5D to 10D ) logic tellae just buy a smaller tree but because of the varying lasts of AE figured id ask. 2) should only clear cream and wax be used since it has contrast stitching?, again logic tells me yes. Thanks again !! I hope im posting in the right thread 😅
(1) http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF604_1_40000000001_-1_ (refer to the "size & fit" tab)
Also regarding (1), if you shop around you can often find AE's shoe trees cheaper (e.g., at Jos A. Bank, where they are often 3 pairs for $25, or other retailers such as Amazon where they are sold under the "Woodlore" name).
And also regarding (2), AE's general shoe care page is http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/ShoeCareView?catalogId=40000000001&langId=-1&storeId=1. Of course, you don't have to use AE's products or methods, but it's not a bad place to start.
Edited by halfnhalfnhalf - 4/28/14 at 4:07pm
- **The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**
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