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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 497

post #7441 of 11292
Good evening SF,

Today as I was walking with my kids, my son stumbled and I moved to catch him from falling. As I did I must of altered my step and scuffed my boots. No biggie. Later on I came home and began to see what I could to cover up the small scuffs. I used meltonian conditioner, followed by meltonian cream polish, and then finished off with kiwi polish. In my final stage after having the cream polish dry for about 20' minutes or so, i noticed the color changed.

Below are two images of the rich dark chocolate brown in unpolished areas.




Below is the resultant discoloration after my protocol.....
This pic you can see the scuff on the top of the toebox.




The only thing i can say is that I believe this is a waxy leather, and i noticed some sort of film and the leather becoming sticky the more I used the brush, so I stopped and took pics to ask the SF community to help.

WTF did I do wrong?
post #7442 of 11292
Quote:
The most commonly available types of finished leather is pure aniline, semi-aniline, protected aniline and
false aniline leather:
• Pure aniline leather: sometimes called aniline or premium select leather. Only a small percentage of
hides are good enough to be converted into pure aniline leather. This is why it is the best quality and most
expensive leather. It is made from full grain leather hides, which have not needed to be grain corrected, still having its natural markings intact. This leather may use a clear finish or protective coating, but not a finish
that is pigmented. The manufacturer wants the natural characteristics of the hide to show through and the
surface to be soft and supple.
• Semi-aniline leather: (or aniline plus leather) describes a full grain leather, which contains only a small
amount of surface dye or clear pigmented finish allowing most of the natural character of the leather to
show through. This is a premium leather product that has used only a little pigment, whereas pure aniline
leather uses none.
Protected aniline leather: is more common and less expensive than pure aniline or semi-aniline leather
products. It has been dyed and/or coated with protective pigments making its color more consistent and the leather's natural markings less noticeable. Protected leather is more heavily pigmented than semi-aniline leather is, causing the finished surface to repel water and resist stains better, plus making it easier to clean.
False Aniline Finish: a leather which is fully coated with layers of pigmented finishes that creates certain
effects meant to simulate pure aniline or semi-aniline finished leathers.
The most commonly used dyes, coatings, pigments and finishes used in the leather industry are as follows:

 

It looks like your leather is one of the latter two types and you took off some of the finish.

 

I had a pair like that and I ended up redoing the finish using Saphir colored shoe cream to restore the color. Had to use it on the entire shoe (and the other) to balance the color. There might be a simpler solution though.

post #7443 of 11292
Assuming you used neutral polishes (poor colour match could be a cause) or know for certain the polish colours match well. It was probably caused by scrubbing with the melatonian conditioner. It is a conditioner and cleaner so depending on how the boots were dyed during tanning, the scrubbing and solvents can strip some colour away. I have had similar a result scrubbing hard with saddle soap, trying to remove a stain. Its not a big deal, you can cover it with coloured shoe polish.
post #7444 of 11292
TBSD, for what it's worth, I think it adds a bit of character. Sometimes shoes with a heavy colored finish will be hard to get perfect again, but perhaps building a few layers of a darker polish over it will make it look more even. By build I mean light adding the polish, waiting, buffing, and repeating a couple of times.
post #7445 of 11292
To the person who was having issues shining the shell boots: I think with most shoes it isn't wise to keep the vamps overly shiny to begin with because of buildup that can make them wear prematurely. Where leather creases will be hard to maintain a shine because the fibers are raising and compressing over and over again. Some people have had good experiences working these areas with a bone after the rain, but I just use some Glenkaren cream polish in all areas except the toe and heel quarters whereas I use wax. Then again, I don't' subscribe to the whole "just brush shell" mentality. I think it works well if you like a subtle dull glow as it will still stay shinier than calf without polish, but it will never be more than just a glow unless you polish it up. Also to complicate things I have found shell to be very inconsistent. For example on one piece (shell) the surface can go from looking like glass to very rough and fibrous, the later being harder to keep shiny and even look even in color. I think those areas are the ones that might benefit from working it with a bone, or spoon to compress the fibers a bit.
post #7446 of 11292

Does anyone have experience of using 'Polished Yellow' Saphir wax? The nice lady from A Fine Pair of Shoes, tells me that it is good for 'Yellow Tan' shoes. 

post #7447 of 11292
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

To the person who was having issues shining the shell boots: I think with most shoes it isn't wise to keep the vamps overly shiny to begin with because of buildup that can make them wear prematurely. Where leather creases will be hard to maintain a shine because the fibers are raising and compressing over and over again. Some people have had good experiences working these areas with a bone after the rain, but I just use some Glenkaren cream polish in all areas except the toe and heel quarters whereas I use wax. Then again, I don't' subscribe to the whole "just brush shell" mentality. I think it works well if you like a subtle dull glow as it will still stay shinier than calf without polish, but it will never be more than just a glow unless you polish it up. Also to complicate things I have found shell to be very inconsistent. For example on one piece (shell) the surface can go from looking like glass to very rough and fibrous, the later being harder to keep shiny and even look even in color. I think those areas are the ones that might benefit from working it with a bone, or spoon to compress the fibers a bit.

You may or may not be referring to my trouble with achieving a consistent shine on my RL Lindricks. Either way, thank you for your insight. I am slowly learning how varied shell can be from not only shoe to shoe but as you noted, just on a single pair. I have recently achieved a subtle glow after some experimentation. A lot of finish was coming up and it gave me some problems.  

post #7448 of 11292
Also with shell you don't want to brush too hard. Some people say to brush vigorously, which can be misleading. I think fast brushing is good, but the color and finish on shell kind of sits on top of it rather than gets absorbed like in calf so anything too intensely can disrupt it and give different effects and such. I don't know if this is true, but just my experience.
post #7449 of 11292
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAJJLLPP View Post

Assuming you used neutral polishes (poor colour match could be a cause) or know for certain the polish colours match well. It was probably caused by scrubbing with the melatonian conditioner. It is a conditioner and cleaner so depending on how the boots were dyed during tanning, the scrubbing and solvents can strip some colour away. I have had similar a result scrubbing hard with saddle soap, trying to remove a stain. Its not a big deal, you can cover it with coloured shoe polish.

it was exactly the scrubbing away of the finish with the meltonian conditioner. I brought the shoes into a cobbler called SOLE PERFECTION in Maple.....I cannot speak more highly about Borna Ebrahimzadeh the proprietor. There is still some discoloration, but nothing like before. I will post some pics over the next few days.
post #7450 of 11292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post

Does anyone have experience of using 'Polished Yellow' Saphir wax? The nice lady from A Fine Pair of Shoes, tells me that it is good for 'Yellow Tan' shoes. 

A Saphir colour that's rarely mentioned here. I like it. It's not strongly pigmented, so you probably can't mess anything up by giving it a try. On whiskey coloured shoes, I found it kept them sparkling if that makes any sense. Any other colour seemed to turn them - a still pleasant - slightly darker shade. I also thought it softer to scoop out than the other coloured waxes. Don't think wasp yellow, it's much milder than that.

Lear
post #7451 of 11292

Thank you, Lear, I will give it a try. What you say is in line with A Fine Pair of Shoes' comment that 'the yellow is a gold shade'. I look forward to tying out the tin I ordered today. 


Edited by Munky - 12/10/13 at 11:17am
post #7452 of 11292
Quote:
Originally Posted by benhour View Post
 

if your concern is about doing harm on calf skin there is no problem on that!! just cordovan creme has a lot more pigment in it!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kentyman View Post
 

 

I disagree; I would not advise it. Not all cordovan creme is the same, so benhour cannot be sure what he's saying is true for your product.

 

Use the right tool for the job. You can get good calfskin polish for cheap with free shipping from Allen Edmonds or Amazon.

 

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen. I only asked as I'm in China right now and it's been difficult finding trustworthy shoe polish (especially in brown). I brought a pair of calfskin boots but not the proper polish. I've got cordovan creme on hand, however.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I think you should stay in the Allen Edmonds thread.

 

I think you should continue to keep your head up your ass.

post #7453 of 11292
Quote:
Originally Posted by masernaut View Post

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen. I only asked as I'm in China right now and it's been difficult finding trustworthy shoe polish (especially in brown). I brought a pair of calfskin boots but not the proper polish. I've got cordovan creme on hand, however.


I think you should continue to keep your head up your ass.

I think Kiwi should be good enough, if available in China. Most shoe manufacturers recommend and use Kiwi so you are good.
post #7454 of 11292

My tin of  Polished Yellow' Saphir wax came this morning and I am about to use it on some shoes!  Does life get any more exciting than this?

post #7455 of 11292
Yes, when you get some Glenkaren polish!
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