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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 5

post #61 of 10807
I'd like it if someone could explain suede brushes and their different uses. When to use a bristle brush vs crepe brush vs brass wire brush.

Also, why do some suggest brushing suede in a single direction only, while others recommend a back-and-forth motion?

Thanks
post #62 of 10807
Should pebble grain shoes be cared for any differently than smooth calf? Up till now, I've been using Saphir Renovateur and and chestnut-colored cream from a Japanese company called Boot Black. I'm tempted to put wax on it, but have held back thus far due to a lack of properly colored wax polish and a fear that it ought not to be used on this type of leather.
post #63 of 10807
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear View Post
I'd like it if someone could explain suede brushes and their different uses. When to use a bristle brush vs crepe brush vs brass wire brush.

Also, why do some suggest brushing suede in a single direction only, while others recommend a back-and-forth motion?

Thanks

I like this question, and am also interested in this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dasai View Post
Should pebble grain shoes be cared for any differently than smooth calf? Up till now, I've been using Saphir Renovateur and and chestnut-colored cream from a Japanese company called Boot Black. I'm tempted to put wax on it, but have held back thus far due to a lack of properly colored wax polish and a fear that it ought not to be used on this type of leather.

I would treat it as regular calf. Remember, pebbled grain is supposed to be more for "country" wear, i.e. rough wear. So... don't worry too much.
post #64 of 10807
Why is Allen Edmonds Conditioner/Cleaner more popular as a conditioner than their Leather Lotion? Even the person at the store recommended Conditioner/Cleaner. Does it contain solvents or soaps?
post #65 of 10807
Question 1: If I've got a pair of black captoes with a white scuff line on one, and some white marks on the toe on the the other. Polishing doesn't seem to do much. Can a cobbler redye just those scuff marks, or is there an easier way to fix them? Question 2: Can you switch between waxes and creams on a single pair of shoes? From what Iv'e read, waxes cover and fill better, but creams give a smoother surface. In this case, I've got a spot on the toe that's just a smidgen lighter than the rest of the shoe, and conditioning and polishing with AE polish don't really fix it. It's not terribly noticeable, but I've also only had the shoes for a few months. I'm wondering if trying a wax might be better at evening out the color.
post #66 of 10807
Quote:
Originally Posted by elgreco View Post
Great threak. And perhaps a thread where I may finally receive a definitive answer for a good wax remover. My monks probably have a few extra layers of wax that could stand to be removed and then have a good even base layer of polish added to bring back a somewhat more uniform.

The question is: is there a remover that is not quite so harsh that it will remove all color? Or would I be better off getting a remover and diluting it with water?

Would love to get an answer to this question right hyah...
post #67 of 10807
Thread Starter 
Unsure of answers guys... hopefully someone else can chime in! Bartlebooth: For #1 the best idea is to take it to a good local cobbler and see what they say. For #2, I am still trying to understand fully the differences between paste/wax/etc.
post #68 of 10807
Thread Starter 
A little more shell cordovan magic... Before: After: Nice #8 patina: Basically, these were not in great shape on the uppers. What I did here was simple: 1) Clean uppers with moist polishing cloth 2) Run cloth into welt/stitching area to get rid of excess dirt/wax buildup 3) Run horsehair brush bristles in welted area to get rid of trapped dust 4) Use horsehair brush on the uppers - brush each shoe for ~5-7 minutes 5) Use polishing cloth to polish shoes (no polish) 6) Add tiny bit of Kiwi cordovan paste wax to polishing cloth, apply to shoe 7) Buff out wax
post #69 of 10807
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear View Post
I'd like it if someone could explain suede brushes and their different uses. When to use a bristle brush vs crepe brush vs brass wire brush.

Also, why do some suggest brushing suede in a single direction only, while others recommend a back-and-forth motion?

Thanks

Not sure about different brushed... I was actually only aware of one kind (wire brush). As for brushing direction, I guess brushing with the direction of the nap would cause the nap to keep its shape, but I believe that raising the nap is required to rejuvenate a shoe and loosen any dirt.
post #70 of 10807
The OP mentioned letting the shoe dry before using the brush. I use either cream or polish and don't usually let anything dry before brushing and then buffing with the cloth. I will let it dry using conditioner but that's it. Am I missing a step? What does letting it dry do? I have never seen a shoe shine do this.
post #71 of 10807
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cant kill da Rooster View Post
The OP mentioned letting the shoe dry before using the brush. I use either cream or polish and don't usually let anything dry before brushing and then buffing with the cloth. I will let it dry using conditioner but that's it. Am I missing a step? What does letting it dry do? I have never seen a shoe shine do this.

On the Saphir bottle it says to wait 3 minutes before buffing/polishing/brushing. On the Kiwi paste wax, it also says to wait until it dries. I just follow instructions.
post #72 of 10807
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post
Unsure of answers guys... hopefully someone else can chime in! Bartlebooth: For #1 the best idea is to take it to a good local cobbler and see what they say. For #2, I am still trying to understand fully the differences between paste/wax/etc.
Thanks, Moo. You're in the Bay: any cobbler recommendations? About your cordovan refresh above— you buffed with only the brush, sans anything, for ~5-7 minutes, and then applied polish and buffed again? Haven't seen that suggestion before. Does buffing without anything just remove old wax, or why'd you decide to do that? Beautiful loafers, btw. Rooster: I'm no expert, but I let things dry until the wax/polish coating looks dull, then buff it out. If I'm impatient, that's 3-5 minutes, but I've found the longer, ~15 minute waits give a better shine in the end.
post #73 of 10807
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartlebooth View Post
Thanks, Moo. You're in the Bay: any cobbler recommendations?

About your cordovan refresh above"” you buffed with only the brush, sans anything, for ~5-7 minutes, and then applied polish and buffed again? Haven't seen that suggestion before. Does buffing without anything just remove old wax, or why'd you decide to do that? Beautiful loafers, btw.

Thanks, B. I go here: http://www.yelp.com/biz/marios-shoe-repair-san-mateo

They have not done major work for me, but are two brothers with a no-nonsense style that I like.

As for my technique... well, I usually never apply anything other than Saphir Reno to cordovan leather. Shell has a ton of natural oils in it, so brushing and polishing (with just a cloth) normally restores all the shine and lustre you want.
post #74 of 10807
Thanks for the rec. I realized, I haven't had the pleasure of owning cordovan since I cared about clothes, so I've not payed attention to cordovan-polishing procedure. Good to know, though...
post #75 of 10807
Hi, first post here. I just picked up some AE Brantleys off ebay. They're a bit used (which is fine considering how much I paid), and it's clear the former owner was a smoker; they noticeably smell like cigarettes. When I first put some leather conditioner on them, a lot of brown residue came off onto the rag I was using which I figure is probably left from being in a smoker's home. What can I do to make them stop smelling and keep the leather nice?
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