Originally Posted by chogall
Terminalogy might be different or incorrect as states in the above thread from '08. See Mantons and BStripe's comment.
According to my conversation with G&G, their leathers don't come "finished" and need to be antiques/finished. Except for their shoes using aniline leathers, which came coated and finished.
Also from here. Crust leather comes "unfinished" to makers. Maybe it's not at a raw state as those in your pictures but they still need to be spray dyed and finished, as oppose to the dye through aniline leathers.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Ahhh....well, like many terms in our business, the younger, more marketing savvy folks have 'co-opted' some of the true definitions.
Crust is crust - there are not various degrees of 'crust'. There are only partially finished skins, and that is probably what they are describing. I also order a calf from Annonay called 'Iron', which is semi-finished and then suitable to add handfinishing to the base color........far less work with virtually the same effect. I can get it in 4 different bases to work from. If any brand is really using calf in the crust, they would be making a big play in advertising showing all the time and effort it takes to build a finish, as it would take them longer to do that than to hand inseam the shoes themselves. Time is money, as usual.
Aniline is a chemical....a dye. It is formulated to absorb into the grain, but it's been a very long time since I have seen a fully struck thru aniline calfskin show up. At most 30% absorption I would guess.
It's also funny when customers ask, or express concern, about the ingredients in various shoe care formulations. When compared to the highly toxic and deadly chemicals and formulations for tanning and finishing leather, like aniline, shoe care products look like bottled water.