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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 332

post #4966 of 11406
Back to the topic. Thank you to whomever posted the John Lobb video on the last page.
post #4967 of 11406
So, now, someone has verified that B Nelson prefer not to use dubbin, and renovator every 3-4 polish sessions.

Which isn't exactly presidential, hanger project way.

And in agreement with at least my experience that shoe creams/waxes are better for regular shoe maintenance than frequent renovators.
post #4968 of 11406
I hope we can return to civil discussion. If so, we have a better chance of hearing from experts.

In addition to chogal's point about limited use of renovateur, note that the Lobb person says nothing about a Renomat type product, and there is no mention from Nick about using it routinely.

I noticed that the post saying "many" coats of wax are not needed for a high shine also suggested using 3-4 layers once a month. That would add 36-48 coats per year. Do that, and you will either have to hope it will flake off, or strip it.
post #4969 of 11406
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbhdnhdbh View Post

I hope we can return to civil discussion. If so, we have a better chance of hearing from experts.

In addition to chogal's point about limited use of renovateur, note that the Lobb person says nothing about a Renomat type product, and there is no mention from Nick about using it routinely.

I noticed that the post saying "many" coats of wax are not needed for a high shine also suggested using 3-4 layers once a month. That would add 36-48 coats per year. Do that, and you will either have to hope it will flake off, or strip it.

maybe you havent understand what i have said!! lets be a little more clear!! you need about 3-4 layers of wax polish to go from 0-100% on a new pare of shoes of ordinary calf skin!! (if the shoes are from high grade of calf leather  and the surface is smooth you ll be ready with 2-3 layers)!! after that you ll need one apply(on coat) every month to maintain the mirror effect!(of course  with noone crazy dance on your shoes) !! that makes 15-16 coats per year! if someone step on your mirror  shine then add 3 coats!! if you look after your shoes and wont be clamsy you ll never go over 20-21 coats per year!! in most cases after the month on drop of cream polish over mirror shine with a buff of microfiber cloth(like the one in the sunglasses) it ll restore your mirror shine to his former glory!!! thats what i do and i think i has a great effect !! ;) hope i helped and made it more clear what i meant

post #4970 of 11406
Even better, don't waste time making your shoes look like mirrors.
post #4971 of 11406
Maintaining a morrow shine takes just some Reno to dissolve slight the top layer and some water. Maybe a coat of new wax. Definitely does not need 3-4 more coats per month.

Or you want show room ready shine, then just buy aniline calf uppers.
post #4972 of 11406
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Even better, don't waste time making your shoes look like mirrors.

 

Now you've gone TOO FAR!!!  smack.gif

post #4973 of 11406
I have always suspected that products and methods intended to make leather shine like mirrors and products intended to keep shoe leather healthy and supple tend to work at cross purposes to each other and that the purpose of this thread is exchange of ideas in an attempt to resolve that issue .
After years of wearing leather welted work boots under severe conditions I have little doubt the best way to protect shoe leather is to slather it down heavily and on a regular basis with some form of animal fat and beeswax however the result aint so purty .
Maybe this conflict will never be completely resolved but the insistance that"you must realize my way is best " only makes it more difficult and turns it into a monty python skit
post #4974 of 11406
It really depends on leather used in your shoes. In your workboots example, those are high oil content waxed leathers which is and should be maintained differently than, say, crust leathers used by Berluti, EG, G&G (semi crust), C&J, etc, and again maintained differently than aniline leathers used by Vass (box calf), JL (Ilcea Radica/museum calf), etc.

The reason why, IMO, renovator isn't the best for crust leathers is because it does dissolve/cleanse some of the factory finish/patina... And crust leathers get most of their colors from antiquing creams and waxes. And without supplementing some cream, they will look dry.

BStripe or DWFII probably knows tons more regarding leathers.
post #4975 of 11406
Speaking of crust leather. How do you guys take care of Edward Green burgundy color? What do you use? I have seen some pictures where that color can become darken or becomes lighter over time depending what polish is applied. I would prefer to maintain the factory color. Any input is appreciated.
post #4976 of 11406
I think the best for burgundy would be to use the cordovan colored polish. Maybe some black every now and again.
post #4977 of 11406
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I think the best for burgundy would be to use the cordovan colored polish. Maybe some black every now and again.

I think that may darken the shoes. Edward Green Burgundy is very light burgundy color. I have G&G in Vintage Rioja and that one is much darker like the color of the Saphir Burgundy/Bordeaux cream polish. I have not found anything yet to match Edward Green Burgundy.
post #4978 of 11406
Do they make a red polish? I know Meltonian does, but not sure about Saphir.
post #4979 of 11406
Saphir does make red, there is Saphir Médaille d'Or Pommadier Cream Hermes Red and Saphir Creme Surfine Hermes Red and Red. I have not seen any of this in the real life but from the monitor screen it seems that Hermes Red is darker.
post #4980 of 11406

Hi!

I got some used shoes, which apparently have been worn often and not much cared for.

However the leather seems to be not so bad, may it be that it is cordovan?

It has these larger bulges like cordovan, but also small ripples inbetween, which should only appear on calf skin?

 

 

 

 

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