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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 320post #4786 of 198574/30/13 at 4:30pmI'm not saying it doesn't sink in, but what you are experiencing is the reason why saphir says to use cordovan cream and not reno on shell. It contains neatsfoot oil and not turpentine. They said the turpentine makes the shell absorb it and swell. You don't want turpentine to absorb into leather.post #4787 of 198574/30/13 at 6:31pmQuote:Yes, they do have an extraordinary reputation - so much so that given the cracking story, I would speak to the owner of the Texas retailer who has gone to great lengths to educate everyone on the proper management of using the entire Saphir products - not just the Saphir Renovateur.The five-step Saphir Process addresses what Saphir product to use on the Vamp - and Saphir Renovateur is only Step 3.There are also limitations to how often some of the five products should be used - which are explained in many of the free online tutorials.The one principle recommendation I was given by the retail owner was - not to mix product brands. If someone is going to transition from another brand to the Saphir products, then rebuild the foundation rather than just pile on.Once the shoes are at a point to where regular maintenance is just required - then it is imperative to know the time tables of which products should be used. If we overindulge, which can lead to many issues, and we refuse to pick up the phone and call a Saphir expert - then we only have ourselves to blame.I don't buy into the theory that shoe companies know all there is when it comes to polish products. I do believe that shoe companies, such as AE, will choose a very good product for how they wish their shoes to be represented and maintained. But it appears Saphir has been around for nearly 100 years and has been the recipient of worldwide awards. Consider them one of the specialists your general MD would refer you to when something goes amiss.Summary -When in doubt - call the owner. He surely would not jeopardize his national reputation by selling products that lead to cracking.I suspect there is more to this issue.post #4788 of 198574/30/13 at 6:42pmQuote:Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
My girlfriend has these beat up boots that she loves so much, but I couldn't stand looking at them in their condition anymore. I had to do something about them. A little Saphir'l do ya well...
Yes, I just polished one of them, just for laughs.
Thanks to my lady for being a good sport.
Oh yeah, I charged her $22 for a new jar of Renovateur too.
Glad you were able to give them a better life.post #4789 of 198574/30/13 at 6:46pmpost #4790 of 198574/30/13 at 7:35pmQuote:Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
I wish there were, honestly. My newest renoed shoes were also part of a larger rotation. So it even meant I was wearing them less than the older ones at the time. Wearing less, getting a different treatment, began cracking.
Honestly I think their polishes are probably fine to use sparingly and away from flex points. I will continue to use them for everything but the vamp, except for a bit of cream polish in the vamp.
Also member Isshinryu who posts vintage shoes in great condition doesn't use Saphir and his shoes are decades old. Just sayin.
Wow. It seems from this statement that you feel that Saphir is actually HARMING the leather. Lasting only three years in a generous rotation (even if largely uncared for) seems very, very short for any of the brands you mention.post #4791 of 198574/30/13 at 7:47pmQuote:If you wish to use saphir products , whose primary drawback is price I think most agree , then go to Hanger Projects website.There you will find an excellent tutorial for what is called a Presidential Shine this is as good a way as any, I belive to begin the care of new shoes or revive a pair of neglected shoes and set them up to be cared for on a regular basis There are many alternative procedures but this is as straight forward and rewarding as anything else you will find
The basics of shoe care are simple :
3- protect (shine)
Always in that order. Always only as needed . The product you use to accomplish each of these steps is really a matter of personal preference just make sure the one you use is intended for what you are using it for and you really cant go too wrong
Edited by Numbernine - 4/30/13 at 8:10pmpost #4792 of 198574/30/13 at 7:49pmQuote:Originally Posted by englade321
If you wish to use saphir products , whose primary drawback is price I think most agree , then go to Hanger Projects website.There you will find an excellent tutorial for what is called a Presidential Shine this is as good a way as any, I belive ,to revive a pair of neglected shoes and set them up to be cared for on a regular basis There are many alternative procedures but this is as straight forward and rewarding as anything else you will find
Thanks for the help! I'll take a look at their video and will order some products.post #4793 of 198574/30/13 at 7:57pmpost #4794 of 198574/30/13 at 8:26pmSo I got this pair of vintage shell florsheims off of the bay and I think they look pretty good overall. One thing I have noticed is there is a rough area behind the toe cap on the right shoe. I'm wondering if anyone know what has caused this and what can be done to smooth it out. I've used the Mac method ad nauseum and tonight gave it a coat of Reno, brushed, gave it the deer bone hoping to fill back in some oil to the rough spot, then brushed. Forgive me I forgot to take before pics, but the rough area remains. Close ups below:
Thanks for any help
Willpost #4795 of 198574/30/13 at 8:50pmpost #4796 of 198574/30/13 at 8:58pmQuote:
Go to www.hangerproject.com (lots of drop downs to choose from, lots of specific instructions, and a toll free number to ask for help)
I have some more too.
Also, the Esquire Magazine Review tested all of the professional products - and yes, the Saphir line may seem a bit more (not by much) - but that you USE LESS in Saphir - so that the end cost may be more evenly matched. I can attest to the minimal use advertised.
Davidpost #4797 of 198574/30/13 at 9:28pmQuote:I really cant see anything in the pics but as a general rule areas of roughness in old shell like this are are usually patches of old wax build up Try wiping the area with a damp rag if the rough patch appears duller than the surrounding surface it is probably old hard wax . Take a clean rag and rub the rough patch really hard if color shows on your rag it is wax Dont worry about harming the surface ive scrubbed shell under running water with a stiff bristle brush to remove wax and it dried and buffed up fine So if it is wax build up you can either remove it with solvents or elbow grease depending on your temperment If you determine it is NOT wax than it is probably dryness again a common problem with old shell. if that is the the case be sure to condition the vamp especially well as this area is prone to cracking . Condition several times before wearing the shoes and then wear them very lightly at first. I would do this irregardless of the cause of the roughness as old Florsheims are notorious for cracking in that area . I belive it is due to the older shell being thickerOriginally Posted by willsgillen
So I got this pair of vintage shell florsheims off of the bay and I think they look pretty good overall. One thing I have noticed is there is a rough area behind the toe cap on the right shoe. I'm wondering if anyone know what has caused this and what can be done to smooth it out. I've used the Mac method ad nauseum and tonight gave it a coat of Reno, brushed, gave it the deer bone hoping to fill back in some oil to the rough spot, then brushed. Forgive me I forgot to take before pics, but the rough area remains. Close ups below:
Thanks for any help
It is really hard to judge in a pic but to be honest those shoes dont look dry to me but i personally would not chance it once they crack thats all she wrotepost #4798 of 198575/1/13 at 12:29amAnyone doing that presidential shoe shine on hanger project website is killing their own shoes. No one should use renomat twice a year if at all. Renovator is a cleaner, not conditioner. And the use of dubbin is ridiculously retarded if anyone still expects a high shine on their shoes. So all noobs should avoid hanger project guide and stick to learning using lexol and wax for their shoes.
ps, none of the shoe makers are using saphir, why should you? igent myth?
pss, renovator is good to clean and dissolve existing wax for a shine without additional wax.post #4799 of 198575/1/13 at 1:04amQuote:
Do you mean just Renovateur and Renomat cause I've seen Saphir shoe creams and waxes used in the Corthay shop in Hong Kong and I understand that JM Weston shoe creams are rebadged Saphirs?post #4800 of 198575/1/13 at 1:16am
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