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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 303

post #4531 of 10232
Hahahaaaaaa!
post #4532 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyJones View Post

No coz I'm not mad! bounce2.gif

 

This is SF, dude... Come on, cut the pretense. Which SF member doesn't condition the insides of his shoes? rotflmao.gif

post #4533 of 10232
For instance, what stuff is he brushing on @ 3:48? Too thick to be an ordinary dye, yet too liquid to be a wax/cream we novices use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=JB0RK2DAr0U

Lear
post #4534 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by archangle13 View Post

This is SF, dude... Come on, cut the pretense. Which SF member doesn't condition the insides of his shoes? rotflmao.gif
I'm obvs still a naif. I humbly beg your pardon and shall immediately start doing this. Should make for nice soft feet too!! biggrin.gif
post #4535 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear View Post

For instance, what stuff is he brushing on @ 3:48? Too thick to be an ordinary dye, yet too liquid to be a wax/cream we novices use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=JB0RK2DAr0U

Lear

 

Firstly, something about that repair job puts me off. I can't say I favor half soles at the best of times but his treatment is less than stellar.

 

Lear, possibly edge kote?

 

https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com.au/en-aud/search/searchresults/2225-122.aspx

post #4536 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

3. I am convinced you could repurpose a bench/pedestal grinder for this. You'd just have to find an appropriate wheel.
lear check into the leatherworker sites they have tons of stuff on leather burnishing and homemade devices .they seem to prefer old washer( or is it dryer?) motors .you will find that there are a variety of dressings used .i use bees wax and meletonian cream for color
post #4537 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

Firstly, something about that repair job puts me off. I can't say I favor half soles at the best of times but his treatment is less than stellar.

Lear, possibly edge kote?

https://www.tandyleatherfactory.com.au/en-aud/search/searchresults/2225-122.aspx

Agreed, which is why I simply drop them off at the RMW shop in Bond Street, London. For minor repairs (heels etc) they used to send to a cobbler near Goodge Street, who also sold RMW. Might have changed since.

Thanks for the link, I'll investigate.

Edit: Interesting products on this page:

https://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/home/department/leather-dye/leather-edge-dressing-1/leather-edge-dressing-1.aspx

Quote:
Originally Posted by englade321 View Post

lear check into the leatherworker sites they have tons of stuff on leather burnishing and homemade devices .they seem to prefer old washer( or is it dryer?) motors .you will find that there are a variety of dressings used .i use bees wax and meletonian cream for color

Thanks englade321, I've bookmarked a few for later.
Edited by Lear - 4/12/13 at 9:03am
post #4538 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear View Post

Some questions veering into cobbler territory:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

1.) When it comes to dressing the sole edges, what exactly does the professional cobbler do that we can't, due to lack of equipment or access to pro supplies?

2.) Specifically, what's that very solid looking block of hard wax (is it indeed wax?) they use on the edges, and can it only be applied with a large rotary buffing machine?

 



3.) How much is a large rotary buffing machine?.. only kidding

Cheers
 

 

 

This would be perfect for the den/study, no? Now that I have a shop apron, I might as well...

 

 

 

I just can't decide if I should go with the bench or floor stand model. I think they run about $1500 and the stand for the floor model another $500. My cobbler has the floor version.

 

http://www.pilgrimshoemachine.com/new.html

post #4539 of 10232

Here is a pair I just finished.  The pants are actually an oxblood color, so you can imagine the shoes are equally more warm in tone.

post #4540 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by archangle13 View Post

Does anyone use leather conditioner on the inside of the shoes? Especially under the vamp, where the majority of the creases are.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EnsitMike View Post

Can someone give some quick insight as to the difference of cirage and glaçage.

From what I gather, glaçage is what we know as a spit shine or mirror shine in english, however I have heard that the cirage is an art in itself.  At first, I was under the impression that cirage was the use of cream polish rather than wax polish, but all of the videos I have seen on it show people applying wax, though just with much less of a finish relative to a spitshine.  

That just had me curious as to why people call it an art in itself when compared to the glaçage.

 

four steps to create a patine/patina.

 

decapage => stripping.  using acetone, bleach, sandpaper, or anything that gets rids of dyes/color. none of the renomat weaksauce.  can skip this part for raw leather.

teinture => dyeing.  the art of patina.

 

cirage => polish.  either cream or wax.  some companies creating faux patina using cirage instead of leather dyes, thus the reason people call it 'art'.  but in reality its much less an art/skill compare to shoe dyeing. 

glacage => mirror shine/spit shine/fire shine.

 

the other important part of patina creation is burnishing, which is essentially wax + heat that changes/burns the wax into the leather pore.  sole edges finishes this way.  toe caps are sometimes 'burnished' by going through high speed polishing machines and wax polishes.

post #4541 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

 

 

four steps to create a patine/patina.

 

decapage => stripping.  using acetone, bleach, sandpaper, or anything that gets rids of dyes/color. none of the renomat weaksauce.  can skip this part for raw leather.

teinture => dyeing.  the art of patina.

 

cirage => polish.  either cream or wax.  some companies creating faux patina using cirage instead of leather dyes, thus the reason people call it 'art'.  but in reality its much less an art/skill compare to shoe dyeing. 

glacage => mirror shine/spit shine/fire shine.

 

the other important part of patina creation is burnishing, which is essentially wax + heat that changes/burns the wax into the leather pore.  sole edges finishes this way.  toe caps are sometimes 'burnished' by going through high speed polishing machines and wax polishes.


You, sir, rock icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

 

Many thanks!

post #4542 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


four steps to create a patine/patina.

decapage => stripping.  using acetone, bleach, sandpaper, or anything that gets rids of dyes/color. none of the renomat weaksauce.  can skip this part for raw leather.
teinture => dyeing.  the art of patina.

cirage => polish.  either cream or wax.  some companies creating faux patina using cirage instead of leather dyes, thus the reason people call it 'art'.  but in reality its much less an art/skill compare to shoe dyeing. 
glacage => mirror shine/spit shine/fire shine.

the other important part of patina creation is burnishing, which is essentially wax + heat that changes/burns the wax into the leather pore.  sole edges finishes this way.  toe caps are sometimes 'burnished' by going through high speed polishing machines and wax polishes.

Nicely stated chogall.

While this is all very true and this likely goes without saying, I can't help but to issue a warning that performing any or all of the above steps shouldn't be conducted by an amateur on their good shoes. As ensitmike and others indicated, practice on some old shoes.
post #4543 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b View Post


Nicely stated chogall.

While this is all very true and this likely goes without saying, I can't help but to issue a warning that performing any or all of the above steps shouldn't be conducted by an amateur on their good shoes. As ensitmike and others indicated, practice on some old shoes.


Good advice.  I went ahead and gave it a shot tonight. Now giving cirage style patina a try, I can say dye is much easier and more effective as well.  Smoother blending and more consistent coverage are the main benefits.  The cirage patina was very quick though.  A plus if time is an issue.

post #4544 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b View Post


This would be perfect for the den/study, no? Now that I have a shop apron, I might as well...

I just can't decide if I should go with the bench or floor stand model. I think they run about $1500 and the stand for the floor model another $500. My cobbler has the floor version.

One for den and one for study. To buff or not to buff, it's a question innit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


four steps to create a patine/patina.

decapage => stripping.  using acetone, bleach, sandpaper, or anything that gets rids of dyes/color. none of the renomat weaksauce.  can skip this part for raw leather.
teinture => dyeing.  the art of patina.

cirage => polish.  either cream or wax.  some companies creating faux patina using cirage instead of leather dyes, thus the reason people call it 'art'.  but in reality its much less an art/skill compare to shoe dyeing. 
glacage => mirror shine/spit shine/fire shine.

the other important part of patina creation is burnishing, which is essentially wax + heat that changes/burns the wax into the leather pore.  sole edges finishes this way.  toe caps are sometimes 'burnished' by going through high speed polishing machines and wax polishes.

Thanks Chogall. I've cut & pasted that. My search into edge finishing leads me to believe the professionals use a lump of very hard wax + heat from the spinning buffer to burnish this onto the edge. I'll leave it at that, as I don't really know what I'm talking about here. Guess DWF11 would be the man to provide accurate details.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EnsitMike View Post


Good advice.  I went ahead and gave it a shot tonight. Now giving cirage style patina a try, I can say dye is much easier and more effective as well.  Smoother blending and more consistent coverage are the main benefits.  The cirage patina was very quick though.  A plus if time is an issue.

nod[1].gif Great for a first attempt. Still waiting to take the leap myself.

Lear
post #4545 of 10232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear View Post


Thanks Chogall. I've cut & pasted that. My search into edge finishing leads me to believe the professionals use a lump of very hard wax + heat from the spinning buffer to burnish this onto the edge. I'll leave it at that, as I don't really know what I'm talking about here. Guess DWF11 would be the man to provide accurate details.

 

I've looked into burnishing before.  I found that wood and metal hand-irons are normally used.  The trick is heat, which is done by friction with the wood, or by holding the iron over an open flame and running it across the leather.  When the leather reaches a certain point, it begins to slick, and the tool begins to glide as the leather is burned or "burnished." It resembles a waxed surface but isn't always.  Though, burnishing wax as well as lacquer are both used at times. You can tell by an overly waxy finish.  Shoes, traditionally, are done with irons from what I've found. 
 

 

 

 


They make wood drill bits that are more consumer friendly and easy to use.  I've seen long wooden pieces used, but as you can imagine it takes elbow grease to reach the burnishing threshold of heat. These usually seem to be the crafter approach.

 

 

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