Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) Last post on Today at 10:35 am in Classic Menswear
- Sole Welting Last post on 1/14/16 at 8:10am in Classic Menswear
- St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread Last post on 12/1/16 at 7:41am in Classic Menswear
- Carmina Shoes - Official Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc...) Last post on Today at 1:49 pm in Classic Menswear
- Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) Last post on Today at 9:51 am in Classic Menswear
Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Plaza Last
Last edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds: Sizing GuideLast edited: 4/29/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X LastLast edited: 4/4/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Hampton LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Leydon LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- House of Kydos
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 245post #3662 of 190501/25/13 at 12:48ampost #3663 of 190501/25/13 at 3:07amQuote:Originally Posted by charliebrown2
Shoe care noob here (and this is a very long thread to pick through unfortunately). Can someone correct me if I'm wrong, but based on my research the general steps (and I know everyone has their preferred method) to polishing your shoes are:
1. Clean dirt & dust off; wipe with cloth and/or brush
2. Apply a leather conditioner. Let dry.
3. Apply a cream-base polish. Let dry.
4. Apply a wax-base polish mix with water
5. Repeat step 4 until desired shine
1. I read a lot about saphir renovator. This is neutral polish, right? When does this come in play?
2. Whats the difference between step 6 buffing and say step 1 where you clean/prep the shoes from dirt/dust? Aren't either purposes just brushing with horsehair brush and/or wiping with cloth?
I think I had some other questions, but blanking out at the moment. Thanks for helping a noob out.
If you understand swedish I can really recommend shoegazing's latest blog about shoecare.post #3664 of 190501/25/13 at 4:12am
I have a question. In section 5 step 4 of the presidential shine (http://www.hangerproject.com/presidential-shine) Kirby applies wax with water to get the shine up, bulling is the term I believe. However, he then in step 5 uses a damp chamois over the top of this. I was told that you should not buff once you have bulled the toecap. Can you tell me what your opinion and the best way to finish the shoe is please?post #3665 of 190501/25/13 at 4:18ampost #3666 of 190501/25/13 at 4:52am
Is there any reason why we shouldn't use shoe trees to help preserve non Goodyear welted footwear. I have Goodyear welted shoes which I carefully preserve using wooden shoe trees. However, having recently purchased some shoes that are not welted, I am wondering whether there might be any reason not to use a shoe tree. Presumably a Blake stitched shoe would still benefit from being stored with a shoe tree, but what about a pair of bonded shoes?
Of course I know I am opening myself up for criticism simply for mentioning a non Goodyear welted shoe, and it is quite an alien concept for me. However I like these shoes (Hudsons) and would like to keep them looking as good as they do now for as long as possible.
I'd be grateful for any advice.post #3667 of 190501/25/13 at 5:59ampost #3668 of 190501/25/13 at 6:09ampost #3669 of 190501/25/13 at 6:24ampost #3670 of 190501/25/13 at 6:52ampost #3671 of 190501/25/13 at 7:21ampost #3672 of 190501/25/13 at 7:40ampost #3673 of 190501/25/13 at 8:36ampost #3674 of 190501/25/13 at 8:38ampost #3675 of 190501/25/13 at 8:46amQuote:Originally Posted by glenjay
I have used Lexol leather cleaner for a lot of years and have never had a problem with it for general cleaning. If you really want to strip all the wax off of your shoes (in the future) I would suggest RenoMat, which does not require a lot of rubbing. The chemicals in RenoMat also tend to pull some of the oils out of the leather as well, so you will want to add some leather conditioner to the shoes after using the RenoMat.
I would use Lexol leather cleaner when you want to clean your shoes and remove a few layers of wax (use before you polish the shoes for the fourth time in a row, or so). I would only strip all the way down to the finish every year or two (depending on how often you add polish to your shoes).
The damage done does not look too major, and you should be able to hid it with shoe polish. If you did in fact remove some of the factory finish, that area will tend to absorb water and oil a little more than the surrounding area, so it might darken more in that area when you apply polish, but will lighten back up as the oil soaks deeper and the excess is wiped off (and the water - if any- evaporates).
In regard to which polish is better to use to cover damage, either cream or paste work fine for slightly different reasons. Cream typically have a higher pigment ratio than paste, mainly due to the inverse wax ratio. When you polish your shoes with colored shoe polish you are just putting colored wax over the leather, the color does not go into the leather itself. Therefore the more wax you have the more color you have (think of trying to look through a number of lightly tinted windows stacked back to back). Cream polish makes up for this by using a higher pigment concentration in the mix, since it has a lower wax ratio.
I can also vouch for the effectiveness of RenoMat. Recently used it to strip down a pair of AEs that had some weird coloring going on on the toe box (probably my first attempt at burnishing). The RenoMat took it down to the bare leather and I was able to use Renovateur, cream and wax to make them look brand new.
- Allen Edmonds: Sizing Guide
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 1 minute ago
- › ٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ 1 minute ago
- › 2016 50 Book Challenge 1 minute ago
- › John Elliott - official affiliate thread 3 minutes ago
- › Stephan Schneider. You'll Always Find Me In The Kitchen At Parties. 3 minutes ago
- › Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread 9 minutes ago
- › OFFICIAL President Trump Thread 12 minutes ago
- › + DRIES VAN NOTEN + 14 minutes ago
- › Any One for a Scotch? 14 minutes ago
- › What did you eat last night for dinner? 19 minutes ago
- › Alden #907 Straight Tip Bal Calfskin by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Fashion Forward brands that will be big in
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway