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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 245

post #3661 of 19575
In response to the above, I would also suggest a round of brushing after the conditioning and creaming stage to remove any excess. This should be a different brush than the first that was used to remove dust and dirt.
post #3662 of 19575
^ Agree.
post #3663 of 19575
Originally Posted by charliebrown2 View Post

Shoe care noob here (and this is a very long thread to pick through unfortunately).  Can someone correct me if I'm wrong, but based on my research the general steps (and I know everyone has their preferred method) to polishing your shoes are:


1. Clean dirt & dust off; wipe with cloth and/or brush

2. Apply a leather conditioner. Let dry.

3. Apply a cream-base polish. Let dry.

4. Apply a wax-base polish mix with water

5. Repeat step 4 until desired shine

6. Buff



1. I read a lot about saphir renovator.  This is neutral polish, right?  When does this come in play?

2. Whats the difference between step 6 buffing and say step 1 where you clean/prep the shoes from dirt/dust?  Aren't either purposes just brushing with horsehair brush and/or wiping with cloth?


I think I had some other questions, but blanking out at the moment.  Thanks for helping a noob out.

If you understand swedish I can really recommend shoegazing's latest blog about shoecare.

post #3664 of 19575

I have a question. In section 5 step 4 of the presidential shine ( Kirby applies wax with water to get the shine up, bulling is the term I believe. However, he then in step 5 uses a damp chamois over the top of this. I was told that you should not buff once you have bulled the toecap. Can you tell me what your opinion and the best way to finish the shoe is please?

post #3665 of 19575
As said, I usually buff with a microfiber glove to get that extra shine, but YMMW; somebody likes stocking, somebody chamois and somebody nothing at all.
post #3666 of 19575

Is there any reason why we shouldn't use shoe trees to help preserve non Goodyear welted footwear. I have Goodyear welted shoes which I carefully preserve using wooden shoe trees. However, having recently purchased some shoes that are not welted, I am wondering whether there might be any reason not to use a shoe tree. Presumably a Blake stitched shoe would still benefit from being stored with a shoe tree, but what about a pair of bonded shoes?


Of course I know I am opening myself up for criticism simply for mentioning a non Goodyear welted shoe, and it is quite an alien concept for me. However I like these shoes (Hudsons) and would like to keep them looking as good as they do now for as long as possible.


I'd be grateful for any advice.

post #3667 of 19575
Not pictured in the the perfectly same lighting/white balance. Pics when new and after few wearings, Crema Alpina and Medium & Light Brown Saphir Cream Pommadier Paste. Loving the result


After wear & polish


After wear & polish
post #3668 of 19575
How the f. They look about $500 more expensive.
post #3669 of 19575

That is SPECTACULAR work!!worship2.gif

post #3670 of 19575
Wow Wow Wow

U did that without wax can polish?
post #3671 of 19575
Originally Posted by Christian B View Post

How the f. They look about $500 more expensive.

+ 1000


Christian learn me to polish like that (I know you can!)

post #3672 of 19575
Sorry guys, forgot that also applied wax once, High Gloss Saphir Medaille D'or shog[1].gif
Edited by goodlensboy - 1/25/13 at 8:00am
post #3673 of 19575
Gboy: Did you use a bit of water on the brush when brushing to achieve that shine?
post #3674 of 19575
Gboy - those shoes look fantastic. I'm going to head up the street and buy more Saphir products to get that type of shine...some of the best in this thread.
post #3675 of 19575
Originally Posted by glenjay View Post

I have used Lexol leather cleaner for a lot of years and have never had a problem with it for general cleaning. If you really want to strip all the wax off of your shoes (in the future) I would suggest RenoMat, which does not require a lot of rubbing. The chemicals in RenoMat also tend to pull some of the oils out of the leather as well, so you will want to add some leather conditioner to the shoes after using the RenoMat.

I would use Lexol leather cleaner when you want to clean your shoes and remove a few layers of wax (use before you polish the shoes for the fourth time in a row, or so). I would only strip all the way down to the finish every year or two (depending on how often you add polish to your shoes).

The damage done does not look too major, and you should be able to hid it with shoe polish. If you did in fact remove some of the factory finish, that area will tend to absorb water and oil a little more than the surrounding area, so it might darken more in that area when you apply polish, but will lighten back up as the oil soaks deeper and the excess is wiped off (and the water - if any- evaporates).

In regard to which polish is better to use to cover damage, either cream or paste work fine for slightly different reasons. Cream typically have a higher pigment ratio than paste, mainly due to the inverse wax ratio. When you polish your shoes with colored shoe polish you are just putting colored wax over the leather, the color does not go into the leather itself. Therefore the more wax you have the more color you have (think of trying to look through a number of lightly tinted windows stacked back to back). Cream polish makes up for this by using a higher pigment concentration in the mix, since it has a lower wax ratio.

I can also vouch for the effectiveness of RenoMat.  Recently used it to strip down a pair of AEs that had some weird coloring going on on the toe box (probably my first attempt at burnishing).  The RenoMat took it down to the bare leather and I was able to use Renovateur, cream and wax to make them look brand new.

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