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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 192

post #2866 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry View Post

Typically that kind of stain can be caused by using to much water in an effort to create a spit shine but as you say this happens when you use no water it may be a different cause or the water you previously used has not been allowed dry out properly. I would use the reno on the offending toe cap and let it dry out completly (at least 24hrs). Then apply very light coats of the wax checking that the stain is not reappearing.

Interesting update..

 

I decided to use renomat to start again with the toes, and subsequently dried the shoes - once I applied the first light coat of renovateur this morning, the first thing I noticed was an uneven application.

 

In other words, as soon as the product went on to the toe caps, the previous area of darker staining (no longer visible after drying) reverted to being darker again and seemed to absorb the product differently.

 

Not looking good for that mirror shine..

 

Any ideas?

post #2867 of 11289

I'm about to order a pair of C&J in black waxed calf...Is there anything special I need to think about when polishing waxed calf? Is it still possible to achieve a mirror shine?

post #2868 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrighty View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry View Post

Typically that kind of stain can be caused by using to much water in an effort to create a spit shine but as you say this happens when you use no water it may be a different cause or the water you previously used has not been allowed dry out properly. I would use the reno on the offending toe cap and let it dry out completly (at least 24hrs). Then apply very light coats of the wax checking that the stain is not reappearing.

Interesting update..

 

I decided to use renomat to start again with the toes, and subsequently dried the shoes - once I applied the first light coat of renovateur this morning, the first thing I noticed was an uneven application.

 

In other words, as soon as the product went on to the toe caps, the previous area of darker staining (no longer visible after drying) reverted to being darker again and seemed to absorb the product differently.

 

Not looking good for that mirror shine..

 

Any ideas?

 

Leave the reno on and live with a brush shine? Maybe let it have a day or so to rest and see if the dark spot goes away, without stripping the finish again. Then from there attempt your shine with no cream step.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSuit View Post

I'm about to order a pair of C&J in black waxed calf...Is there anything special I need to think about when polishing waxed calf? Is it still possible to achieve a mirror shine?

 

My understanding of the 'waxed' leathers are that they are similar to chromexel, in that they are a pullup leather. I believe people use primarily cream or dubbin type products on these leathers, as they are inherently casual. 

post #2869 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

 

Leave the reno on and live with a brush shine? Maybe let it have a day or so to rest and see if the dark spot goes away, without stripping the finish again. Then from there attempt your shine with no cream step.

 

 

 

 

My understanding of the 'waxed' leathers are that they are similar to chromexel, in that they are a pullup leather. I believe people use primarily cream or dubbin type products on these leathers, as they are inherently casual. 

Casual, really? It's the model Hallam which is a captoe oxford shoe, I intend on using the shoes when wearing a suit. It would be nice with the rubber sole since the weather here in Sweden can be pretty bad. But now I might have to reconsider...

post #2870 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSuit View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

My understanding of the 'waxed' leathers are that they are similar to chromexel, in that they are a pullup leather. I believe people use primarily cream or dubbin type products on these leathers, as they are inherently casual. 

Casual, really? It's the model Hallam which is a captoe oxford shoe, I intend on using the shoes when wearing a suit. It would be nice with the rubber sole since the weather here in Sweden can be pretty bad. But now I might have to reconsider...

 

It comes in both waxed and unwaxed, dark browns. My understanding is that the waxed will not easily take a high shine, but has a lustre which is similar to chromexel. You can get the Hallam in dark brown calf which may be more what you are looking for.

post #2871 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

 

Leave the reno on and live with a brush shine? Maybe let it have a day or so to rest and see if the dark spot goes away, without stripping the finish again. Then from there attempt your shine with no cream step.

 

Many thanks..may have to do that

 

Currently they are sitting in the heat on my doorstep drying out with reno coats on only - they look dull, and the stain is barely visible. Unfortunately it appears that even when its gone, the moment a product with any moisture (all of them) goes back on, it re-appears.

 

If I miss the cream step (several layers) am I not compromising the protection of the leather after the renomat?

 

Do these look like calf leather to you? I think they are but want to be sure they are not polished binder..

 

 

IMG_0374.jpg 3,035k .jpg file
post #2872 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrighty View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

 

Leave the reno on and live with a brush shine? Maybe let it have a day or so to rest and see if the dark spot goes away, without stripping the finish again. Then from there attempt your shine with no cream step.

 

Many thanks..may have to do that

 

Currently they are sitting in the heat on my doorstep drying out with reno coats on only - they look dull, and the stain is barely visible. Unfortunately it appears that even when its gone, the moment a product with any moisture (all of them) goes back on, it re-appears.

 

If I miss the cream step (several layers) am I not compromising the protection of the leather after the renomat?

 

Do these look like calf leather to you? I think they are but want to be sure they are not polished binder..

 

 

IMG_0374.jpg 3,035k .jpg file

 

Look like calf to me. 

 

Missing the cream step will just not replenish colour. If you've replemished the oils of the leather with reno, after stripping, I wouldn't be too worried.

post #2873 of 11289

It took a couple of days but I made it. I finished going thru the entire thread.

 

Looking to make sure I take care of my shoes and get a number of good years out of them, thanks for all of the info.

post #2874 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by benhour View Post

according to the video of otter wax!! i have never used this product on textile shoes!is it leaving marks or darkening the shoe?why not to use a waterproofer like collonils-or tarrago(they are preaty good, easy to use) ?is it better? thanks in advance

Benhour,

 

I've never used either collonils or tarrago, so I can't comment on if they're better or worse. Are they silicone based? I choose otter wax because it's completely natural AND I like the way the wax puts character on the piece. HOWEVER, if one wanted just a subtle waterproofing, and they didn't have an affinity for the wax approach, the two products you mentioned might be very good candidates. Good call.

post #2875 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee_44106 View Post

Re: slipping ,
I find that even now, with rubber dove-tailed toplifts that the shoes are slippery, until I scuff up the sole (most often on purpose)
I was just curious why flushed metal heel taps are not done, considering all the other extraneous pimpering that are done (sole edge dressing, polishing/conditioning soles....etc)

it's pretty popular around here. e.g. I helped a fellow member to purchase his first pair of materna shoes and he opted against the metal plates. i got used to them when i started with custom mades shoes, so it is a no brainer for me. I can't remember if anyone with english footwear already did it here on sf.
post #2876 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrizzleCizzle View Post

Benhour,

 

I've never used either collonils or tarrago, so I can't comment on if they're better or worse. Are they silicone based? I choose otter wax because it's completely natural AND I like the way the wax puts character on the piece. HOWEVER, if one wanted just a subtle waterproofing, and they didn't have an affinity for the wax approach, the two products you mentioned might be very good candidates. Good call.

mmm i am not sure for the collonils waterproofer, their premium line is supposed to be silicone free and with all natural ingredients! 1909 special edition(their best line) is for sure silicon free(i have used this one and its very good)!!! only the sportswear waterproofer says that it is silicone base!

 

tarrago says that it is bees wax based!! says nothing about silicone on the can!

they are both in spray cans! my opinion is that collonil is better for suede-nuback and tarrago is better for textile and hi-end fabric like goretex

post #2877 of 11289

When brushing the side of the shoes. Should I go up and down or side to side with the brush?

post #2878 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hampton View Post

When brushing the side of the shoes. Should I go up and down or side to side with the brush?

You n00b. You didn't even tell us in which hemisphere you'll be brushing the shoe.

post #2879 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrizzleCizzle View Post

You n00b. You didn't even tell us in which hemisphere you'll be brushing the shoe.

?

post #2880 of 11289
He was joking. It doesn't matter which way you brush IMO.
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