**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 166

i might add.

- a dry sole absorbs more than a wet. logical?

- i brush the sole with the dirt brush to open the pores/surface. logical?

- i use a bigger brush than the one provided from the sole oil providers. it guarantees a more even application. logical?

it works. good luck.

i'm gonna make up my own blend of this stuff.

^

Home made? Using beeswax, lanolin ETC?

gonna try a few things. Neatsfoot oil, manuka (a native tea tree), mink oil, eucalyptus etc etc. Gonna figure out a blend that smells nice.

Thanks, guys.

Hempseed oil?!?!?!?!

 

LOL Given his avatar & his last post it was only a question of time.

I'm also try to make my own cream instead using some popular product such as saphir (This thing was expensive like gold in Indonesia). Japanese Shoe shine lounge also make their  own so I thought it would not as difficult as I imagined before. There's a lot of precious oil made in Indonesia, I'm thinkink about making cream which is blend with this

After seeing Gdot's comment in the "Rock your socks"-thread I got interested in the use of mink oil. Does anybody have any pros and cons?

Since it was my comment I'll chime in a bit.

First and foremost - there are lots of people out there who object to mink oil because many formulations also contain silicone, which is said to be harmful to the leather. Also some formulations are said to possibly contain other kinds of fats (platypus, wolverine, whatever!) I cannot say that I have ever seen proof of this one way or another - but it does seem a good idea to make sure you purchase a quality product. One that claims to be pure, or at least silicone free.

Second - applying additional mink oil to an oil stuffed leather such as is used on many work boots will render it impossible to ever get a good shine on the boots. This is due to the oil content already in the leather.

Third - Mink oil will indeed soften the leather a bit - so don't be stupid and put it on leathers that are already soft and supple enough.

Fourth - Saphir Renovateur is mink oil based - so anyone who swears mink oil should never touch your dress shoes should also avoid reno. (Total bunk by the way.)

Fifth - Too much oil can make it hard for the shoes to hold a polish. If this happens buff every week until the oil dries up.

Enjoy the debate!

Thank you very much for the in-depth answer, I've read some about it, both good and bad, but don't have nearly enough knowledge to know both it's short and long time effect on leather.

U R Welcome.

I forgot to mention that there is some concern that it will turn rancid and rot out the stitching. Perhaps this is possible in work boots or other footwear that gets and stays moist. Never any problem for me with dress shoes that are worn once a week or less.

And of course any kind of moisturizer can darken a very light leather.

But what about Obenaufs? I've been contemplating about trying out some on the creases of some of my Loakes or boots.

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, but I had a few minutes, and I find this topic very interesting.

Most oils/fats used to condition leather seem to be animal fats, like lanolin, mink oil, etc... which are saturated fats, as opposed to vegtable/plant oils like peanut, walnut, olive, corn, etc... which vary in saturation. There is a variation in the types of acid that each oil contains, such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acic, etc... that help define the saturation.

I wish I understood more as to the impact and longevity of various oils on leather, but I know a saturated fat/oil will not turn rancid nearly a quickly as an unsaturated fat/oil.

I do know enough not to use walnut oil on my walnut brown bluchers.

I know nothing about that particular product - although Patrick B swears by

One thing is for sure - don't apply anything to just one area - it's the whole upper or nothing. You don't want blotchy.