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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 1220

post #18286 of 19038

@DWFII  @Nick V. 

 

Thanks gentlemen. This is why the Forum remains a valued resource. I appreciate the clarifications. 

 

Is the gluing of the half sole as opposed to stitching sub-optimal?

 

Aside from longevity (say the glue coming off), given that the gemming is stitched to the welt, in principle, so long as the sole stays on, then gluing could be fine as well without affecting the integrity of the shoe? I assume that stitching is more stable so in that sense, statistically preferable (i.e. less likely to come apart).

 

I didn't think to ask about the cork patching or replacing it.

 

This is all interesting theoretically, though practically more involved than I thought it would be: this will be my first sole replacement on decent shoes.

 

Is the best case a full sole/heel replacement with new cork? 

 

@Chowkin thanks for the video which was helpful.

post #18287 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

@DWFII
  @Nick V.
 

Thanks gentlemen. This is why the Forum remains a valued resource. I appreciate the clarifications. 

Is the gluing of the half sole as opposed to stitching sub-optimal?

Aside from longevity (say the glue coming off), given that the gemming is stitched to the welt, in principle, so long as the sole stays on, then gluing could be fine as well without affecting the integrity of the shoe? I assume that stitching is more stable so in that sense, statistically preferable (i.e. less likely to come apart).

I didn't think to ask about the cork patching or replacing it.

This is all interesting theoretically, though practically more involved than I thought it would be: this will be my first sole replacement on decent shoes.

Is the best case a full sole/heel replacement with new cork? 

@Chowkin
 thanks for the video which was helpful.

IMO cementing and stitching is the correct way of doing it. It's less likely that the sole will separate that way. Even still from time to time it can fail. Not often though....When we get a pair where the sole was attached using cement only we Blake stitch the new sole on whenever possible.

On GY welted shoes I always recommend a full sole and we replace the foot-bed as part of our process. Why shouldn't we? We already have the shoe apart and that allows us to smooth out the insole somewhat.
post #18288 of 19038

I see, so they were recommending just the cementing and not the stitching to me. So in principle, you can keep cementing a sole on over time (the cobbler was correct) which is half the job, so to speak (minus the stitching). He was worried about the stitching over time eroding the holes in the welt and perhaps that's a problem though I'm looking at maybe a sole replacement every 4 years with typical rotation of shoes.

 

@Nick V.

post #18289 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

was worried about the stitching over time eroding the holes in the welt

B-o-o-ogus!

If the old stitches are "picked" (removed) and the cobbler mindful to set his machine for the same spi, there should be no problem.

Truth to tell, it is my experience that repair shops that recommend cement only on a job that was originally stitched (or offer excuses and rationales to not stitch) often simply don't have enough experience and/or skill with the stitching machine to do the job cleanly.

Repair is supposed to return the shoe to as near the original state as is possible...neither "improving" it, nor leaving out steps. These are all judgement calls...and open to interpretation...by folks who all too often have never made a shoe and don't really understand the principles involved.
post #18290 of 19038

That was my worry. It's an established cobbler in my city. Wven if he can do it right, I'm slightly concerned that he wanted to steer me in the direction of just cementing given that it's better to stitch. Was it cost? Expedience?

 

That said, once he noted by resistance, he said that stitching is no problem. I'll take pics when I pick it up. Will go a different route next time. Thanks for your input. Really illuminating.

 

@DWFII 

post #18291 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

B-o-o-ogus!

If the old stitches are "picked" (removed) and the cobbler mindful to set his machine for the same spi, there should be no problem.

Truth to tell, it is my experience that repair shops that recommend cement only on a job that was originally stitched (or offer excuses and rationales to not stitch) often simply don't have enough experience and/or skill with the stitching machine to do the job cleanly.

Repair is supposed to return the shoe to as near the original state as is possible...neither "improving" it, nor leaving out steps. These are all judgement calls...and open to interpretation...by folks who all too often have never made a shoe and don't really understand the principles involved.

I completely agree with this^^^
post #18292 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post
 

Are those a bit short for your feet?.  If not, maybe the toe cap is a bit elongated for the pattern.

No, they're not too short.

post #18293 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi View Post

No, they're not too short.

Creasing beyond the captoe in my experience is normal and quite common. Just a matter of how far the toe stiffener extends.
post #18294 of 19038

Afternoon all,

 

I'm looking for some advice. The other day on the train the woman in front of me was using a Tide ToGo pen on the cuff of her shirt, and of course, she dripped it right down the front of my new chromexel slip-on's. Is there a way to get this stain out or do I have to go buy another pair? Much appreciated if anyone has some advice to hide the stain or remove it.

 

Thank you,

-C

post #18295 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris6 View Post
 

Afternoon all,

 

I'm looking for some advice. The other day on the train the woman in front of me was using a Tide ToGo pen on the cuff of her shirt, and of course, she dripped it right down the front of my new chromexel slip-on's. Is there a way to get this stain out or do I have to go buy another pair? Much appreciated if anyone has some advice to hide the stain or remove it.

 

Thank you,

-C

 Please upload a photo!! It would be much easier for us and you ll receive an better answer!!

post #18296 of 19038
post #18297 of 19038
post #18298 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

TheShoeSnob products are rebranded Saphir. They're fantastic and you do not need to buy any other brand. I have both Saphir MdO and TSS and can tell you categorically they're the same (they're both made by Avel as well).

You need to brush off the shoe after using the mink oil renovator.

The leather turns whitish either because you haven't brushed everything off properly or because of water damage to the leather. Need to be very conservative in adding water and making sure the leather itself doesn't see it.


This is very interesting!!! I had no idea the shoesnob products are the exact same as the saphir MDO... Has anyone actually tried both??!?!?!? I love saphir mdo and don't mind paying the premium they charge. please provide more intel :)

post #18299 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by solelover View Post
 


This is very interesting!!! I had no idea the shoesnob products are the exact same as the saphir MDO... Has anyone actually tried both??!?!?!? I love saphir mdo and don't mind paying the premium they charge. please provide more intel :)


There was a brief discussion on this issue on the J. Fitzpatrick affiliate thread. It was quite recent, so it's probably on the last page or two of the thread.

post #18300 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris6 View Post

Remove it it could be really hard ( renomat or other harsh cleaner and maybe you ll damage the finish)! i would try a vinegar solution (1/3) with water to even out!! if this wont help try some oily conditioner and this ll cover it for sure!

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