(cc'ing @DWFII, )
Sorry, no idea. I don't care for shell (mostly because I don't like working with it) and I don't recommend or have much in the way of an opinion (maybe a little bit of a jaundiced eye) about proprietary products.
See how it sounds when I express a statement mimicking your "For ages people have used a vinegar solution to rid salt stains from shoes"??? Its been around for ages doesnt mean its necessarily good.
Not insisting on anything, but its important to cite tests, data, or something concrete when making such broad stroke and sometimes exaggerated claims.
So far, you have none.
Nice. More insults and now patronizing comments towards whoever is questioning the validity of your argument.
Your description of leather tanning is correct. But that doesn't mean much or support your claim regarding saddle soaps.
Again, here's my opinion, don't spew things as truth when you have no concrete data to back it up. So far, you still have produced none.
The pH must be very acidic when the chromium is introduced to ensure that the chromium complexes are small enough to fit in between the fibers and residues of the collagen. Once the desired level of penetration of chrome into the substance is achieved, the pH of the material is raised again to facilitate the process. This step is known as basification. In the raw state, chrome-tanned skins are blue, so are referred to as wet blue. (COPY PASTE not mine)
Patrick i knew what you had in mind when you said about the magnets but for someone with no chemistry background this could be misleading , that's why i mentioned about covalent bond!
Shell cordovan in the making-tanning process is fused with waxes that's why it has this characteristic texture (really smooth and make these huge "creases") !! i dont think conditioners can get really deep or any at all in it cause of this high wax content! Btw conditioners ll dissolve Alden defender really easily if there is not a big amount of silicon in it!!
the spots occurs from moisture trap under the wax surface and if i remember correctly Mr Rider have given a tip for that(renovateur if i remember correctly but i am not sure) !!
i would try it in the tongue before application to be sure for no stains occurs!
Irrelevant to my point.
Since the start of this conversation, I've already indicated, with MSDS from manufacturers, two of your claims were not true. 1) Saddle soap is not highly alkaline. 2) Saddle soap is not straight castile soap.
I am asking specifically where's the verification for your claim that saddle soap makes leather brittle. The science is logical, makes sense, but that's it. No experiment, no data to your claim. Maybe some credible sources from non-vendors?
Nice. Something I haven't read before.
? Logic replaces experiments, data, reviews? This isn't exactly applied math or information theory dude.
I don't plan on stop using saddle soap or whatever thats in my shoe shine cabinet. It removes grit and mud wonderfully well without leaving my boots/gloves dry compare to using water alone. So far they did not untan my boots or turn them brittle after almost a decade.
I also have Lexol pH neutral cleaner in addition to my saddle soap but its not as easy to use to clean heavily soiled shoes compare to just water, saddle soap, and a stiff brush. The difference in pH? 8 of Saddle vs 6-7 of Lexol, both much higher than leather except saddle soap is most oftentimes used diluted.
p.s., your hypothesis makes sense, on paper, but is it true in practice? Who knows. There's this case on the Leather Chemist forum where some guy used saddle soap and leather honey on 500 years old saddle and it disintegrates but who knows the condition of that antique leather? And here's a quote in that same thread.