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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 1068

post #16006 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Well the materials used becomes important. Even in the case of handwelting things like insole thickness becomes an objective comparison.

Right. Also last model numbers, whether or not the heel stacks are actually leather or leatherboard, whether a maker is backing the vamps with fabric.

And so many other things that may even change from one model to the next or one leather to the next.

Sometime you don't even realize what you've been overlooking until you have seen everything else repeatedly...ad nauseum...and your attention wanders just a bit.
post #16007 of 19083
Another example...this one was actually from a deconstruction, IIRC, although of bespoke shoe. I don't know how long the photo had been posted before shoefan came along and pointed to the torn-off outsole.

Who's really interested in a worn out, about-to-be-discarded outsole? But shoefan directed our attention...or at least mine...to the stitching holes. They were perfect little rectangles...indicating that the outsole had been hand stitched with a square awl.

Not earth shattering or mind blowing esp. when you considered that the shoe was bespoke but I hadn't zero'd in on that level of detail.

Dumb bootmaker, I guess.
post #16008 of 19083
"I'm a dumb bootmaker, Jim..."
post #16009 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

That japanese one was the one where they claimed G&G's has some sort of "mesh" in-between the upper and lining in the vamp section for reinforcement. Who knows what they could mean. Could be a translation issue. I'm just curious, that's all.

Search Shoe dissection on forum. I've posted quite a few pictures.

And if u want, I have a few on saint crispins as well.
post #16010 of 19083

Just something I did this weekend...

post #16011 of 19083
Cool time lapse video!
post #16012 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Well the materials used becomes important. Even in the case of handwelting things like insole thickness becomes an objective comparison.

I agree that materials and components are the most differential factors when taking about GYW shoes (you can add finishing and QC).  But processes and techniques in their construcction...no much difference at all.

 

After informed myself for a year with most of the threads about shoe construction and quality in SF I decided to spend 260€  for my latest GYW quality shoes (the cheapest one I own). I am sure that their materials are not the same, but they fit me very well and their price/quality ratio wont disappoint me for sure. Prices for most high class shoemakers have no justification nowadays (not even with that premium leather uppers/out/insoles/finishings): they are completely outrageous!!.

 

My advise to newcomers is to buy the best possible GYW shoe under 350-400 € that fits them really well (there are many good makers in the market now with tons of models and lasts).

 

If budget is more, just go for HW shoes!!.

post #16013 of 19083

Hi all,

 

Great resource here. Thanks for sharing all your experiences and knowledge. I am finally going to start maintaining my own shoes (previously used the firm's shoe shiner). After reading through the thread, I am getting ready to make a rather large first purchase at Hangar Project. I basically only have shoe trees and nothing else in terms of shoe care/maintenance. 

 

I was hoping that you guys could share your thoughts with me on the following:

 

(1) My shoe collection includes a semi-rotation of quite a few AEs: black park avenue, walnut strand and fifth ave, bourbon mora, dark chili burnished fifth ave and a merlot mcallister. If I'm not going for mirror finishes, what do you guys think of just using reno and the respective AE premium polishes (link)? I'm really wondering of the quality of the AE polish and if I should skip this and just go straight to using  Saphir cream polish. This is not really a cost issue, its more of an I don't want to screw up the colors on my shoes issue. The other related question I had is that if I go the Saphir route, which colors would be closest to the bourbon, walnut, dark chili and merlot colors. It seems that it would be a combination of browns, bordeaux and mahogany and maybe tobacco?

 

(2) Any extra steps or tips for the upkeep of the chili burnished fifth ave? I do enjoy the look of the darkened toe. Can this be maintained by adding a bit of black polish and wax during my normal maintenance routine?

 

Thanks guys!

post #16014 of 19083
post #16015 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by niklasnordin View Post
 

Just something I did this weekend...

Nice work!!! The only thing i want to mention is that at my opinion you used a little more cream than the optimum

post #16016 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by benhour View Post
 

Nice work!!! The only thing i want to mention is that at my opinion you used a little more cream than the optimum

 

Yes I know, that was the intention :)

I cleaned them with soap and water the day before and let them dry for a day so they were quite dry.

post #16017 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNSJr View Post
 

Hi all,

 

Great resource here. Thanks for sharing all your experiences and knowledge. I am finally going to start maintaining my own shoes (previously used the firm's shoe shiner). After reading through the thread, I am getting ready to make a rather large first purchase at Hangar Project. I basically only have shoe trees and nothing else in terms of shoe care/maintenance. 

 

I was hoping that you guys could share your thoughts with me on the following:

 

(1) My shoe collection includes a semi-rotation of quite a few AEs: black park avenue, walnut strand and fifth ave, bourbon mora, dark chili burnished fifth ave and a merlot mcallister. If I'm not going for mirror finishes, what do you guys think of just using reno and the respective AE premium polishes (link)? I'm really wondering of the quality of the AE polish and if I should skip this and just go straight to using  Saphir cream polish. This is not really a cost issue, its more of an I don't want to screw up the colors on my shoes issue. The other related question I had is that if I go the Saphir route, which colors would be closest to the bourbon, walnut, dark chili and merlot colors. It seems that it would be a combination of browns, bordeaux and mahogany and maybe tobacco?

 

(2) Any extra steps or tips for the upkeep of the chili burnished fifth ave? I do enjoy the look of the darkened toe. Can this be maintained by adding a bit of black polish and wax during my normal maintenance routine?

 

Thanks guys!

Personally if you want to keep the original colour as long as possible then i'd probably use Saphir nappa balm or something similar. Most waxes/creams will darken leather (especially tan or light coloured leather) over time due to the wax content so using a delicate cream product should give you the best chance of maintaining the original colour and finish for the longest time.

post #16018 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stemo79 View Post
 

Personally if you want to keep the original colour as long as possible then i'd probably use Saphir nappa balm or something similar. Most waxes/creams will darken leather (especially tan or light coloured leather) over time due to the wax content so using a delicate cream product should give you the best chance of maintaining the original colour and finish for the longest time.

????

post #16019 of 19083
Quote:
Originally Posted by benhour View Post
 

????

Apologies that does sound stupid. What I meant is that different products have different waxes and differing amounts of wax content. Wax being of a greasy consistency will darken by its nature so a lighter solution with less shouldn't have as dramatic an effect as a more heavy based solution.

 

For example I had a pair of Tan shoes which darkened dramatically with the use of Pommadier cream, I replaced the shoes and used nappa balm and the colour has barely darkened at all.

 

I hope that makes sense this time.

post #16020 of 19083

When I was young I used to have a passion for lightish gray flannel suits, generally Italian and off the peg, but quite expensive.

The point is, I would mainly wear them with tan shoes, and as we all know shoe polish comes off to some extent on your trousers which annoyed me.

At the time my main go to pair of shoes for special events was a lovely pair of light tan Oxfords (about the same quality as G&G or EG). I lived with my parents at the time and my mother had a passion for handbags and always used Russell and Bromley handbag cream (neutral), so from day one I used that on them. Worked a treat. No transfer of polish to clothes, nice natural shine, colour of shoes remained true to original. shoes lasted just as well as any others that were treated differently.

If you want to keep the original colour, Meltonian neutral (or similar yup I use Saphir products now), then occasionally a cream a shade or two lighter, voila,

If you want to get a natural patina (the sprayed/dyed type IMHO looks gross), there is no substitute for gradual ageing and polishing with a colour a shade or two darker than the original leather dye. If the shoes are quite dark judicious use of a little black, in strategic areas, can look nice but is no substitute for the lovely effect of years of love and care.

Black shoes on the other hand, in my experience, fare poorly with neutral polish. Mind you I'm not a fan of black shoes, I think they're best saved for work, formal dinners, weddings and funerals. However I am very fond of some of the shoes in the G&G Deco range which I think look superb in black, I really don't like those last shapes when they've been made into other colours. I wouldn't have thought that Tony Gaziano had any other colour than black in mind when he originally designed those lasts.

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