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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 1035

post #15511 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

The problem with discomfort in walking is due very largely to awful fitting in most RTW, and poorly designed last, amongst other thing. 

No it is not. There is a world of difference with different soles. For example, the difference between Comfort Soles and leather soles in RM William boots.
post #15512 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petepan View Post

No it is not. There is a world of difference with different soles. For example, the difference between Comfort Soles and leather soles in RM William boots.

Sure, but by the same token if you spend your life in microgravity you never develop the muscles to walk on earth. If you rely on computers and the Internet to do your thinking for you, you never learn to write literately or think cogently.

Etc....ad infinitum.

If you swaddle your feet in foam rubber and cushion insoles from childhood on, it is very hard to walk barefoot or in leather shoes for any distance--the foot never develops either the muscles or the supporting structure to function normally. And "normally" is the important concept here.

I don't think the case can be made that feet which have never been allowed to function as they were "designed" to function are either healthy or normal.

Maybe that doesn't change the reality for some people...but it's a false premise that a healthy, well fit foot cannot walk comfortably in leather soled shoes.

And it's wrong-headed to accept crutches as the new normal.

edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - 6/11/15 at 7:53am
post #15513 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petepan View Post


No it is not. There is a world of difference with different soles. For example, the difference between Comfort Soles and leather soles in RM William boots.

How the hell about a high arch foot in a low arch last, Pete? How about that time when you have to cram your toes into unsightly narrow lasts, and pretend it is "comfy"?

post #15514 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Sure, but by the same token if you spend your life in microgravity you never develop the muscles to walk on earth. If you rely on computers and the Internet to do your thinking for you, you never learn to write literately or think cogently.

Etc....ad infinitum.

If you swaddle your feet in foam rubber and cushion insoles from childhood on, it is very hard to walk barefoot or in leather shoes for any distance--the foot never develops either the muscles or the supporting structure to function normally. And "normally" is the important concept here.

I don't think the case can be made that feet which have never been allowed to function as they were "designed" to function are either healthy or normal.

Maybe that doesn't change the reality for some people...but it's a false premise that a healthy, well fit foot cannot walk comfortably in leather so0led shoes.

And it's wrong-headed to accept crutches as the new normal.

This is why, despite how much controversy I would get, I would say that bespoke footwears worth an investment in anyone's life.

post #15515 of 19038

:nest: 

 

 

 

Right then. Well, I'll be sure to have a stern word with my mother regarding my podiatric upbringing. Apart from that, what's the best one can hope to do with a budget of, say, £400?

 

Am I relegated to the "no man's land" of lasts? In this tier, is a bit of swaddling the lesser of evils compared to poorly-lasted plebe shoes?

post #15516 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonotovsOpera View Post
 

@traverscao, do you have any photos of your footwear, especially over time? I'm really curious how you manage to not darken them given the products you apply.

Yeah Travers, I would like to see some of your shoes with so much wear.  I am curious to see your care regime in them..

post #15517 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Sure, but by the same token if you spend your life in microgravity you never develop the muscles to walk on earth. If you rely on computers and the Internet to do your thinking for you, you never learn to write literately or think cogently.

Etc....ad infinitum.

If you swaddle your feet in foam rubber and cushion insoles from childhood on, it is very hard to walk barefoot or in leather shoes for any distance--the foot never develops either the muscles or the supporting structure to function normally. And "normally" is the important concept here.

I don't think the case can be made that feet which have never been allowed to function as they were "designed" to function are either healthy or normal.

Maybe that doesn't change the reality for some people...but it's a false premise that a healthy, well fit foot cannot walk comfortably in leather so0led shoes.

And it's wrong-headed to accept crutches as the new normal.

I never deny that a good fit is of importance. Neither was the proposition crouched in mutually exclusive terms. If I am taking a long walk, and walking long distances is not a daily or regular occurrence,I wear rubber soles. Wearing leather would just be silly.

The same proposition applies to spine and body posture. If you are saying to me that you are getting rid of all your leather sofas and soft cushion, and installing planks in your car seats, then at least you might achieve some sort of consistency in your dogma,
Edited by Petepan - 6/11/15 at 8:19am
post #15518 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

How the hell about a high arch foot in a low arch last, Pete? How about that time when you have to cram your toes into unsightly narrow lasts, and pretend it is "comfy"?

Do a simple experiment. Get a person the best fitting bespoke shoes with leather soles and ask him to walk 5 miles in it. Then repeat with the cheapest pair of Nikes. Ask him which would he prefer for the third trip.
post #15519 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

nest.gif  



Right then. Well, I'll be sure to have a stern word with my mother regarding my podiatric upbringing. Apart from that, what's the best one can hope to do with a budget of, say, £400?

Am I relegated to the "no man's land" of lasts? In this tier, is a bit of swaddling the lesser of evils compared to poorly-lasted plebe shoes?

I suspect you're "relegated" to what you choose...or perhaps more to the point, to what you choose to do and be.

As a shoemaker, for instance, I have options--I can choose to use a Traditional clicking knife, with all the attendant hassle of learning to sharpen a knife properly and the incidental, and unending work to keep a near-as-nevermind perfect edge on it.

Or I can buy any number of variations of the exacto knife and use replaceable, disposable razor sharp blades.

From what is being said here, I know what the default choice would be and I accept that reality...although I consider it, again, wrong -headed and and ultimately, diminishing.

But for me, I also know that to go the easy, expedient way--to use disposable blades--I forego everything I can learn and all the skills I can develop simply by sharpening the Traditional clicker knife. When I hone a blade I also hone my skills...across the board

What I gain from sharpening a knife...perception, muscle tone, etc...applies not just to sharpening but to clicking itself--steadiness of hand, adjustment of angles, and so forth--as well as to the designing of patterns and assembly of components. Every aspect of my making is affected by that one choice to use a Traditional, hard to master tool rather than an easy, convenient, comfortable, disposable. No exceptions.

And to the further point, once a maker chooses the easy way, it is that much harder to go back to the more rigourous way. If we grow up in Nikes, IOW, it is nearly inconceivable that we will ever be comfortable in leather soled shoes. pB was making the same point in an earlier comment about men (not women) being desperate to take off their dress shoes.

I have no doubts that esp. in this day and age, given the choice, many would opt for a cushion insole or a crepe outsole. But all that means is that we are choosing self-indulgence as a way of life.

Every form of refuge has a price.
post #15520 of 19038

I've been reading that Alden's secret is they apply some acrylic to the shell cordovan. This would explain why their shell always seems a bit shinier out of the box than other makers, which is great. It may be part of the dye they add on to Horween's shell cordovan. 

 

Does this also explain why just brushing is usually good enough to shine them? Seems like applying conditioners/waxes etc would either cover up the shiny acrylic or start to remove it. 

post #15521 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediahound View Post
 

I've been reading that Alden's secret is they apply some acrylic to the shell cordovan. This would explain why their shell always seems a bit shinier out of the box than other makers, which is great. It may be part of the dye they add on to Horween's shell cordovan. 

 

Does this also explain why just brushing is usually good enough to shine them? Seems like applying conditioners/waxes etc would either cover up the shiny acrylic or start to remove it. 

If you strip that shitty acrylic down and apply a natural wax finish on top instead, it will give you a deep, reflective glow that looks true to the hides' nature. 

 

A conditioner will certainly make the acrylic a little foggy, but you have to know, it's the solvents that actually removes them. This is part of the reason why Alden of Carmel would tell you NOT to use a solvent to clean under any circumstances. They were afraid it would spoil their little lie. 

post #15522 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

If you strip that shitty acrylic down and apply a natural wax finish on top instead, it will give you a deep, reflective glow that looks true to the hides' nature. 

A conditioner will certainly make the acrylic a little foggy, but you have to know, it's the solvents that actually removes them. This is part of the reason why Alden of Carmel would tell you NOT to use a solvent to clean under any circumstances. They were afraid it would spoil their little lie. 

Care to post a picture of your Alden cordovan shoes? I know they have acrylic coatings but don't recall seeing them with coating removed.
post #15523 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


Care to post a picture of your Alden cordovan shoes? I know they have acrylic coatings but don't recall seeing them with coating removed.

I don't have Alden. Go look up in Alden thread. A guy in that thread, with a pair of shell Indy boots, used to removed the coating. Too lazy to get you the thread itself. Have fun.

post #15524 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post
 

If you strip that shitty acrylic down and apply a natural wax finish on top instead, it will give you a deep, reflective glow that looks true to the hides' nature. 

 

A conditioner will certainly make the acrylic a little foggy, but you have to know, it's the solvents that actually removes them. This is part of the reason why Alden of Carmel would tell you NOT to use a solvent to clean under any circumstances. They were afraid it would spoil their little lie. 

I have to say that I am very happy with my shitty acrylic coat of Alden Shell #8.  

 

Seriously Travers, we all love different shoes, leathers, colours, polishing products...I even love my CG Grafton Churchs for winter time. We do not need to be so radical with those issues and the best thing is to experiment and try to enjoy with all of them.

post #15525 of 19038

@chogall , here's to what you want. Shitty phone pics, so mind you, try your best to hold down.

 

Shell Dundee with traditional grease, wax dressing, montana pitch blend, and Otter Wax Leather Salve thrown at it. Was stripped off of its original coating, and attempt burnished with deer bone and water, before proceeded to treatments named.

 

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