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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 1022

post #15316 of 19072
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Drum dyed then antique? Or hand dyed?

post #15317 of 19072
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

Drum dyed then antique? Or hand dyed?

Time and sun light.
post #15318 of 19072
BTW, we should take it to the leather thread.

Oh, and I am not an expert but I have heard veg retanned leather behave similar to veg tanned.

And the leather you looking for or adore is undyed veg tanned leather, not just any simple veg tanned.
post #15319 of 19072

I have a couple of questions about my Carmina Semi-Brogues.

 

The finish that came with the shoes was great:
- They had great depth of colour and lustre.
- The leather was almost a touch greasy.  (If i got a small scuff, I could get rid of it by rubbing the area with my finger)
- Water would bead on the leather (never wore in the rain, just dabbed with my finger to test).

 

After wearing them 4-5 times I applied Saphir Renovateur for the first time, allowed it to soak in and then buffed. 

 

After which, the overall finish seemed to be a bit different (not the same depth and lustre).   But much worse the  black burnishing on the broguing above the vamp bled, leaving around 5 black streaks that were obviously from the holes in the brogueing.  I then applied more Renovateur to that area hoping to get rid of the streaks, but all it did was smear the streaks as shown in the attached photos.  During this 2nd application of Renovateur I noticed that the leather was not reacting the same way to moisture (the leather was now turning black in spots as if saturated with water.  During the first application the leather basically remained its normal color everywhere).


So I have a couple of questions:
1.  How can I get rid of the streaks?
2.  Where did I go wrong?
3.  How should I maintain these shoes to keep them like their original state?


Your help would be greatly appreciated,

 

 

post #15320 of 19072

And yes I searched the threads - all I found was someone asking about a colour run but there were no responses.  That being said I might have missed something because these are pretty huge threads!

post #15321 of 19072
Well, I would say that your mistake was letting the renovateur sit before buffing. IME, reno is really hard to buff out if let to dry too long. It gets gunky for whatever reason. I'm not sure what the deal is with black streaks, but my initial feeling is too use just a very small amount over the shoe again and buff without letting it sit. Just give it enough time to apply to both shoes and then immediately buff them after application in the order you applied it. If a second light coat and buffing doesn't help, I'd go the stripping route...
post #15322 of 19072
Quote:
Originally Posted by vmss View Post

And what is the difference and expectations of surfaced dyed chrome tanned leathers and struck through dyed leather?

It's in the description. Surface dyed leathers are only dyed in the grain.--the dye does not penetrate all the way to the corium. If you cut into such leathers and they are chrome tanned they will have a "blue" core.

A "struck through" leather is dyed all the way through and if you cut it it will be the same colour in the interior as on the surface.

I occasionally buy a "French Calf" from a wholesaler in Houston that is struck through. Where it comes from, he's not saying. Annonay has a great French calf but it is not struck through.

I have been told that high quality chrome tanned calf skins are hard to strike through unless the grain surface has been "snuffed" or treated in some way.

Most chrome tanned leathers are surface dyed only...not all, mind you, but I suspect it takes more time and effort (expense) to drive the dye from the flesh to the grain. and most, but not all chrome tanned leathers have a somewhat opaque "paint job" on the grain surface to reinforce the surface dye.
post #15323 of 19072
From what I've seen at least box calf and museum calf are struck through.

I've only seen a small subsets of leathers and not an expert in any way.
post #15324 of 19072
I
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsofia View Post

And yes I searched the threads - all I found was someone asking about a colour run but there were no responses.  That being said I might have missed something because these are pretty huge threads!

Reno for too long; it dissolved the finishes and bunched them up.

Reno is best for waxed up leathers, not brand new shoes.
post #15325 of 19072
Reno is harsh. Don't buy into the aggressive marketing. It is not suitable for all leather.

To the poster with streaks on his Carmina, stripping the leather and building up polish afterwards is probably the best bet for fixing the problem caused by renovateur. Best of luck.
post #15326 of 19072
I've never had any issue with Renovateur being harsh. I can't say for sure, but it sounds to me like jsofia may well have used too much of the product and left it on too long ('letting it soak'?). A very thin coat is all I use, then brisk brushing once it hazes over, then buff with a soft cloth. I've consistently obtained good results on many pairs of shoes over many years. I never read the marketing hype in support of the product. But I also don't place much stock in a lot of the forum hype against it.
post #15327 of 19072

@patrickBOOTH, Reno is a stripper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It gives people artificial "orgy" and take away their wallets whilst not giving them anything worthy. LOL!!!

post #15328 of 19072
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

BTW, we should take it to the leather thread.

Oh, and I am not an expert but I have heard veg retanned leather behave similar to veg tanned.

And the leather you looking for or adore is undyed veg tanned leather, not just any simple veg tanned.

Veg retanned is a hybrid crap, really. 

 

Undyed vegetable tanned is the highest of the standard I look for. If the shoemaker, or the leather supplier, does not supply the leather of my request, I would still accept dyed veg. tanned hides. 

post #15329 of 19072
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


It's in the description. Surface dyed leathers are only dyed in the grain.--the dye does not penetrate all the way to the corium. If you cut into such leathers and they are chrome tanned they will have a "blue" core.

A "struck through" leather is dyed all the way through and if you cut it it will be the same colour in the interior as on the surface.

I occasionally buy a "French Calf" from a wholesaler in Houston that is struck through. Where it comes from, he's not saying. Annonay has a great French calf but it is not struck through.

I have been told that high quality chrome tanned calf skins are hard to strike through unless the grain surface has been "snuffed" or treated in some way.

Most chrome tanned leathers are surface dyed only...not all, mind you, but I suspect it takes more time and effort (expense) to drive the dye from the flesh to the grain. and most, but not all chrome tanned leathers have a somewhat opaque "paint job" on the grain surface to reinforce the surface dye.

How come both sides of skins were always black, DW?

post #15330 of 19072
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

How come both sides of skins were always black, DW?

"Black"?? Where did that come from?

Both sides of the skin may be dyed and the leather still not struck through...you wouldn't expect the leather to be dyed only on the grain surface and the fleshside left chrome blue, would you?

And, FWIW, as someone who has used chrome and veg and retan, I disagree with your assessment of retan.
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