I got a pair of Alden 990 recently, but there was some problems of it. Anyone know how can I fix the problem? Thanks
Stuffing and fatliquoring works to achieve the same goal, no denying, but ends up with different effect - one's water resistant, one's definitely not; one age better, and one cannot age, but can retain the original cosmetic look. A vegetable tanned piece of leather will prone to be hardened and crack, while a piece of chromed leather can turn into pleather (at least that is what Horween certified in one of their conversation with Kaufman Mercantile). That is why, both in treatment and care, that vegetable tanned leather needs to be well cared with raw oils and fats, while chrome leathers take emulsified oils.
Now, as you know it, vegetable tanned leather will take either - raw oils and fats, or emulsified oils. Chrome leather can only take one - emulsified oils. It's easy for you to say that just fatliquors will be enough for consumers, however, traditionally, when leather care knowledge had not succumbed to advertising and bullshit products, people used raw oils without any screw ups. It comes to the difference of leather types and poor quality tannage that actually gives serious screw ups.
It bothers me a great deal that we are so overwhelmed by rancidification of raw oils and grease, Pat, while improper storage of said treatment or treated leather with emulsified oils can produce similar, if not worse, effect. The introduction of bacteria and mold growth as well as rancidification is less from oxidation but rather more so from exposure to humid conditions, in addition to products being deposited on the surface, from either not completely absorbed, or over saturation of the fibers, which caused the treatment to oozes out of the pores, or commonly known as spew. This can happen with the excess use of emulsified products, too, when the user relies too much on the surplus water content. Thus, if mistaken, the water content from the emulsified oils can actually cause harm as well, for excess water can produce excess moisture, and excessive use of emulsified oils can saturate the fibers just as bad as raw oils.
After all, in usage and caring of any type of leather, the consumer cannot blame the product's fault, nor can the consumer play innocent on their lack of knowledge - even using a pen takes quite some knowledge. More often than not, the consumer will smear product all over the leather under someone else's influence, not from research and understanding, and only then to accuse the product of faultiness. Going easy is not the answer nowadays anymore.
That would be the simplest prepping step. This is the only rule that should be enforce. However, it's hard to judge the pH of the leather, Pat, unless you're talking about water content and suppleness, not softness, of the leather.
If one proceeds to oiling, whether with emulsified oils, or raw oils, "fat on lean" should be exercised, along with care, patience, and a whole lot more.
How was the leather treated after tannage? Stuffed? Curried? Or both?
Looks like a most shell cordovan :)