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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 907

post #13591 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Hello Gents, hoping I can get some help here. I picked these up and they are great except for the cap. One boot you can see the grain, the other looks almost smooth. I have tried removing wax, so it looks like a lasting issue. Possible ideas to smooth out other boot since I cannot recreate the grain??


When you say you "picked these up," it makes me think you were thrifting when you bought them. They definitely fit into the category of seconds. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

It looks like...if nothing else...that the vamps were cut from two different and non-matching sections of the hide. At worst, from two different hides.

Since shoes like this are undoubtedly machine lasted, and since the machines have a limited stroke, both vamps were pulled almost precisely the same amount. Yet lasting the toe on the one pulled the texture completely out where it did not on the other.

What does that tell us? It tells us that the vamp on the right shoe is cut from far better quality leather than the vamp on the left. The vamp on the left may even come from belly.

But there's another problem--from the photo above it looks like the shoes are two different colours. Some of that may be simply from the flattening of the leather but it also could be that the vamps came from two different hides from two different dye lots. Manufacturers often click the pieces for a whole run of shoes before they ever start putting them together (and they cut for maximum yield not maximum quality). So a two foot stack of clicked vamps may not necessarily be paired correctly.

I don't know of anything you can do to remedy this problem without making it worse--abrading the leather and/or creating unsightly pipes and wrinkles of excess leather. Since I'm the only one answering, there may not be a solution. But seek a second opinion...or return them if you can.

Don't shoot the messenger.

--edited for spelling and punctuation
Edited by DWFII - 2/18/15 at 7:00am
post #13592 of 19069

My first attempt at trying to get a nice shine on the toe box.  About 20 coats of saphir wax polish with a damp cloth.  I used a soft cloth to polish instead of a brush since the brush was leaving brush lines.  

 

post #13593 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick_b View Post


They will lighten in those spots and the only thing you can do is slather dark polish on those spots (which isn't advisable) Note, that the variation in how the leather ages is actually quite coveted. Many folks buy shell for that very reason you mention.





Apropos of nothing...it is also a well known fact that shell, if not cut with care and a certain mindfulness--a "vision" of the final result--will reflect light differently depending on how it is aligned on the shell. Thus the difference in colour between the left and right vamps in the photo.
post #13594 of 19069
The colour difference between the pieces is actually something I like even though it shows less carefulness.
post #13595 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfn View Post

The colour difference between the pieces is actually something I like even though it shows less carefulness.

Horses for courses...I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it is a deliberate choice for some.

I just place a high value on aesthetic harmony and to my eye it just looks confused and hodge-podge. Motley, even patchwork, with the emphasis on "work.".
post #13596 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
When you say you "picked these up," it makes me think you were thrifting when you bought them. They definitely fit into the category of seconds. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

It looks like...if nothing else...that the vamps were cut from two different and non-matching sections of the hide. At worst, from two different hides.

Since shoes like this are undoubtedly machine lasted, and since the machines have a limited stroke, both vamps were pulled almost precisely the same amount. Yet lasting the toe on the one pulled the texture completely out where it did not on the other.

What does that tell us? It tells us that the vamp on the right shoe is cut from far better quality leather than the vamp on the left. The vamp on the left may even come from belly.

But there's another problem--from the photo above it looks like the shoes are two different colours. Some of that may be simply from the flattening of the leather but it also could be that the vamps came fro two different hided from two different dye lots. Manufacturers click the pieces for a whole run of shoes out before they ever start putting them together (and they cut for maximum yield not maximum quality). So a two foot stack of clicked vamps may not necessarily be paired correctly.

I don't know of anything you can do to remedy this problem without making it worse--abrading the leather; creating unsightly pipes and wrinkles of excess leather. Since I'm the only one answering, there may not be a solution. But seek a second opinion...or return them if you can.

Don't shoot the messenger.

I never shoot the messenger, it's always about the message.

I didn't thrift them, but they were a GMTO and handwelted, I purchased sight unseen.

Thank you.
post #13597 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchaplow View Post
 

My first attempt at trying to get a nice shine on the toe box.  About 20 coats of saphir wax polish with a damp cloth.  I used a soft cloth to polish instead of a brush since the brush was leaving brush lines.  

 

 

I like the boots.  20 coats of polish?!?  My guess is you didn't get much benefit or see a difference at all after like 2-3 coats?   Maybe over time as the patina forms they'll get to a shinier state. Not that those aren't shiny, just seem more like a several coat shine than what we see on these parts from time to time.

post #13598 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beach Bum View Post
 

 

I like the boots.  20 coats of polish?!?  My guess is you didn't get much benefit or see a difference at all after like 2-3 coats?   Maybe over time as the patina forms they'll get to a shinier state. Not that those aren't shiny, just seem more like a several coat shine than what we see on these parts from time to time.

Well, I finished off my bottle of Blanton's while polishing so maybe I lost count.  I thought that I noticed slight increases in shine as I went but was in a not well lit room and the bourbon may have played its part also.  I think you maybe correct that I did not see much difference after the first few but it was fun trying.  The boots are only about a week old so hopefully as I go they will patina and shine nicely.  I agree, it is not the shine I would expect after 20 coats.  However, this was my first time.  I have no idea if I used too much water, wax, bad technique or if I just need to give them more time.     

post #13599 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

I never shoot the messenger, it's always about the message.

I didn't thrift them, but they were a GMTO and handwelted, I purchased sight unseen.

Thank you.

If they were handwelted...the chances are pretty good (not certain) that they may have been hand lasted as well. Which makes no difference to the conclusions I drew nor the implications for fixing the problem. But it does kind of make me raise my eyebrow a bit higher...and in somewhat more dismay.

IOW, all the more reason it shouldn't have happened.
post #13600 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

If they were handwelted...the chances are pretty good (not certain) that they may have been hand lasted as well. Which makes no difference to the conclusions I drew nor the implications for fixing the problem. But it does kind of make me raise my eyebrow a bit higher...and in somewhat more dismay.

IOW, all the more reason it shouldn't have happened.

I agree 100%
post #13601 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

I never shoot the messenger, it's always about the message.

I didn't thrift them, but they were a GMTO and handwelted, I purchased sight unseen.

Thank you.

Looks like a mismatched pair to me.
post #13602 of 19069

I know that I am often fatuous, but this is a genuine question. What is the best way to clean and polish a pair of shoes made of two types of leather - particularly calf and suede? It seems to me that brogues of this combination must take an incredible amount of patience when polishing the calf and not rubbing polish on the suede. Ditto, correspondent shoes.

 

While I'm a it, how to you pronounce 'correspondent' in this context?  Co - respondent, with the accent on the 'co' or 'corres- pondent ?

post #13603 of 19069
They take their name from the third party involved in divorce proceedings, as that's apparently the type of shoe a man who dalliances with married women would wear, so I suppose co-respondent would be correct.
post #13604 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beach Bum View Post
 

 

I like the boots.  20 coats of polish?!?  My guess is you didn't get much benefit or see a difference at all after like 2-3 coats?   Maybe over time as the patina forms they'll get to a shinier state. Not that those aren't shiny, just seem more like a several coat shine than what we see on these parts from time to time.

Beach Bum, I definitely applied close to 20 coats.  Any ideas why it only looks like 2-3 coats.  I dampened my cloth. loaded with a small amount of polish, applied in circular motion until a light haze appeared, waited about 3 minutes then lightly polished.

post #13605 of 19069
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchaplow View Post
 

Beach Bum, I definitely applied close to 20 coats.  Any ideas why it only looks like 2-3 coats.  I dampened my cloth. loaded with a small amount of polish, applied in circular motion until a light haze appeared, waited about 3 minutes then lightly polished.


Maybe others would have a better answer, but maybe since they are brand new it will take some time to get them to the point where a handful or more of coats gives an extraordinary shine.  I've been in a similar boat as you where I'll polish a newer pair of shoes, and while it gets very shiny nothing like the mirror shines we'll see here from time to time. 

 

On several of these pairs, however, I've noticed that each time I come back to the shoes and do this (usually only 2-4 times per year since have a good amount of shoes) I seem to get to a shinier state.  But then I've never put more than 3 coats, I get too lazy or run out of time. 

 

If I did go with 10+ coats as many do or recommend I would hope to get to a superb shine, but think with newer shoes I still wouldn't like I see in your picture.


So basically, don't sweat it, shoes are great and they'll develop a nice patina over time and get as shiny as you like.

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