or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › **The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 876

post #13126 of 19038

Travers, you are your own worst enemy, sometimes. You clearly know a lot about shoes and shoe care but (as I have suggested in the past) you may be posting just a bit too often. Your responses to other people sometimes crowd out other comments from other contributors. Take some deep breaths and relax into the background, sometimes. Best wishes, Munky.

post #13127 of 19038

I would really apreciate  to have as many inputs as possible for Shoe Streching to make my shoes a bit wider, specially in the heel area ( I figure out it is impossible to do much about length?). I have never done it before and I will have to go to a cobbler for it with a good pair of shoes. May I ask;

 

1.-Is the use of a cobbler´s streching shoe machine the best way to solve the problem or are other good methods/techniques?.

 

2.-How many hours should the cobbler strech the shoe?.  Must he start little by little or should he strech it at the point needed. 

 

3.-Should the cobbler strech the whole sides (both) of the shoe even though I just want to strech the heel area?.

 

4.-Can I ruin the whole last very easily if the cobbler is not really knownledgeable with the issue?

 

5.-What is the maximum mm/inches recommended to strech from each side of the shoe in order not to ruin them?

 

Thank you very much in advance.

post #13128 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

Can someone tell me why the tongue on my left Trickers boot might keep migrating to the outside of my ankle? It's a bit vexing, as the right one stays dead on. I wonder if it's a flaw in the sewing of the tongue or just some strangeness in my gait...

I don't know for sure that there is any one answer--it could be a poor alignment of the tongue on the vamp. It could be the way the last is shaped or the way the shoe was lasted. It could be your foot or your gait.

But there is a easy and sure-fire remedy that I got courtesy of GlenJay:

You need a harness needle or something with a large eye and probably a sharp point. You will need some heavy thread in a colour not too dissimilar to the colour of the leather of your shoes.And you'll need a water colour pencil in a contrasting colour.

Put the shoes on. Lace them up making sure the tongue is centered. Locate a spot on the tongue where the laces cross neither too low not too high on the tongue. Use the water colour pencil to make mark on either side of the crossing laces...not too close... right in the middle (width-wise) of the tongue. The marks will probably be half an inch apart

Take the shoe off. Thread your sharp harness needle. Punch a hole all the way through the tongue right through each water colour pencil mark (you could use an awl her too but not too large). Re-lace the shoe. Sew a loop over through the holes and over the crossed laces...not too tight, better with a little slack.

Tie off on the back side of the tongue.

Put the shoe back on and run the crossing laces under the loop of thread. If you do this right, you will never have to undo your laces so far that they are out from under the loop. And if the laces cross under the loop it will hold the tongue centered as long as the shoes are tied and the laces reasonably snug.

Think about this, do it neatly and with some precision and no one will ever see the loop of thread (unless the thread is white on a black shoe) and you're problem will be solved.

FWIW, this is a solution I have used a number of times using a leather loop but GlenJay showed me a pair of Italian shoes that were made with the thread loop when they came from the maker. It's so simple and so much more elegant than an extra line of stitching on one side of the facing.

--
Edited by DWFII - 1/16/15 at 11:14am
post #13129 of 19038

Thanks for the kind regards, Munk. I tend to get talkative online. 

post #13130 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post
 

I would really apreciate  to have as many inputs as possible for Shoe Streching to make my shoes a bit wider, specially in the heel area ( I figure out it is impossible to do much about length?). I have never done it before and I will have to go to a cobbler for it with a good pair of shoes. May I ask;

 

1.-Is the use of a cobbler´s streching shoe machine the best way to solve the problem or are other good methods/techniques?.

 

2.-How many hours should the cobbler strech the shoe?.  Must he start little by little or should he strech it at the point needed. 

 

3.-Should the cobbler strech the whole sides (both) of the shoe even though I just want to strech the heel area?.

 

4.-Can I ruin the whole last very easily if the cobbler is not really knownledgeable with the issue?

 

5.-What is the maximum mm/inches recommended to strech from each side of the shoe in order not to ruin them?

 

Thank you very much in advance.

FWIW, I think shoe stretching at the cobbler can be really risky.

post #13131 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post

I would really apreciate  to have as many inputs as possible for Shoe Streching to make my shoes a bit wider, specially in the heel area ( I figure out it is impossible to do much about length?). I have never done it before and I will have to go to a cobbler for it with a good pair of shoes. May I ask;

1.-Is the use of a cobbler´s streching shoe machine the best way to solve the problem or are other good methods/techniques?.

2.-How many hours should the cobbler strech the shoe?.  Must he start little by little or should he strech it at the point needed. 

3.-Should the cobbler strech the whole sides (both) of the shoe even though I just want to strech the heel area?.

4.-Can I ruin the whole last very easily if the cobbler is not really knownledgeable with the issue?

5.-What is the maximum mm/inches recommended to strech from each side of the shoe in order not to ruin them?

Thank you very much in advance.

1--a shoe stretching machine will work for width or instep stretching. But it is always inexact by comparison to a build-up on the last. In some cases it's even a little hit or miss.

2--To stretch the shoe it must be wetted...ordinarily with shoe stretching fluid...stretched and then allowed to dry thoroughly. Usually overnight will guarantee it sets.

3--I've never seen a stretcher...machine or otherwise...that will stretch the heel area.

4--Maybe...anything is possible--even probably without the appropriate knowledge and understanding.

5--Unanswerable. Since the heel is reinforced and stiffened there is probably little to no stretch available without damaging something. Other areas, it depends on the leather...what's left after lasting. Anyone stretching needs to be able to judge when the leather is approaching its limits. This is not always...or very often...easily seen or apparent. Once the leather is stretched beyond its limits the fiber mat starts breaking up and the leather is near-as-nevermind ruined.

--
Edited by DWFII - 1/16/15 at 10:55am
post #13132 of 19038

@DWFII, can a bespoke shoe be alter in terms of foot measurement after it was made and worn?

post #13133 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

@DWFII
, can a bespoke shoe be alter in terms of foot measurement after it was made and worn?

If it has to be altered more than minimally, it wasn't bespoke.
post #13134 of 19038

@DWFII   lol just came across this product for sale from it looks like 1922 on ebay "RARE 1922 Titanine Dope Ad/ Aircraft Glue"

as you got me intrigued about the DOPE

 

post #13135 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


I don't know for sure that there is any one answer--it could be a poor alignment of the tongue on the vamp. It could be the way the last is shaped or the way the shoe was lasted. It could be your foot or your gait.

But there is a easy and sure-fire remedy that I got courtesy of GlenJay:

You need a harness needle or something with a large eye and probably a sharp point. You will need some heavy thread in a colour not too dissimilar to the colour of the leather of your shoes.And you'll need a water colour pencil in a contrasting colour.

Put the shoes on. Lace them up making sure the tongue is centered. Locate a spot on the tongue where the laces cross neither too low not too high on the tongue. Use the water colour pencil to make mark on either side of the crossing laces...not too close... right in the middle (width-wise) of the tongue. The marks will probably be half an inch apart

Take the shoe off. Thread your sharp harness needle. Punch a hole all the way through the tongue right through each water colour pencil mark (you could use an awl her too but not too large). Re-lace the shoe. Sew a loop over through the holes and over the crossed laces...not too tight, better with a little slack.

Tie off on the back side of the tongue.

Put the shoe back on and run the crossing laces under the loop of thread. If you do this right, you will never have to undo your laces so far that they are out from under the loop. And if the laces cross under the loop it will hold the tongue centered as long as the shoes are tied and the laces reasonably snug.

Think about this, do it neatly and with some precision and no one will ever see the loop of thread (unless the thread is white on a black shoe) and you're problem will be solved.

FWIW, this is a solution I have used a number of times using a leather loop but GlenJay showed me a pair of Italian shoes that were made with the thread loop when they came from the maker. It's so simple and so much more elegant than an extra line of stitching on one side of the facing.

--

 

That does seem to be a very neat solution. I also considered just having my leather guy sew a leather "lace loop" onto the tongue itself. Only issue there would be sourcing the exact same burgundy suede as used on the tongue.

 

After removing the laces, I have determined that the tongue itself was sewn on at a bit of a slant. Very slight, but enough to let it slide. :fu:

post #13136 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


1--a shoe stretching machine will work for width or instep stretching. But it is always inexact by comparison to a build-up on the last. In some cases it's even a little hit or miss.

2--To stretch the shoe it must be wetted...ordinarily with shoe stretching fluid...stretched and then allowed to dry thoroughly. Usually overnight will guarantee it sets.

3--I've never seen a stretcher...machine or otherwise...that will stretch the heel area.

4--Maybe...anything is possible--even probably without the appropriate knowledge and understanding.

5--Unanswerable. Since the heel is reinforced and stiffened there is probably little to no stretch available without damaging something. Other areas, it depends on the leather...what's left after lasting. Anyone stretching needs to be able to judge when the leather is approaching its limits. This is not always...or very often...easily seen or apparent. Once the leather is stretched beyond its limits the fiber mat starts breaking up and the leather is near-as-nevermind ruined.

--

Thank you very much for your answer DWFII. I wonder how many members of this forum have taken their shoes to strech (less than 1% perhaps?) and what was their final results. 

post #13137 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


If it has to be altered more than minimally, it wasn't bespoke.

Have you ever had any case when the client(s)'s feet grows over time? 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post
 

@DWFII   lol just came across this product for sale from it looks like 1922 on ebay "RARE 1922 Titanine Dope Ad/ Aircraft Glue"

as you got me intrigued about the DOPE

 

@DWFII, I guess I had to admire Horween's creativity from now on...

post #13138 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

Have you ever had any case when the client(s)'s feet grows over time? 

Mine own. I which case I relasted them on a longer last. It was a pain in the rear end and I had to charge myself almost as much as to make a pair from scratch. And it was much less satisfying.

IMO, no properly structured shoe can be stretched lengthwise without damaging the shoe, to one degree or another.
post #13139 of 19038

What about stretching it width wise? 

post #13140 of 19038
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

What about stretching it width wise? 

It can be done--see post #13132
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › **The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**