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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 871

post #13051 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Yeah, I just found this on Horween's site in the comments section on the different Chromexcels:

-Aniline Chromexcel WP – the classic, hot stuffed pull-up leather
-Beaufort Chromexcel – the same as the above, but with a different oil/wax blend. Designed to be cementable due to less oil.
-Wooly Chromexcel – receives a different stuffing blend with a heavy addition of wool grease (lanolin)
-Plainsman Chromexcel – A duller version with a more pronounced grain character
-Kudu Chromexcel – Plainsman that has been hand-curried (oiled by hand)
-Cavalier Chromexcel – Similar to Beaufort, with a lighter colored base tannage, allowing us to produce brighter colors.
-Huntsman – a.k.a. Waxed Flesh, this version is finished on the flesh side, give it a slicked-down-suede look
-Casual Chromexcel – A mellow (softer) version with less pull-up
-Stampede Chromexcel – Chromexcel with a matte, nubuck finish
-Marine Field Shoe – A natural, flesh out version tanned for the use in boots during WWII (North African Theater)
-Natural M’s Chromexcel – A heavy, mechanical leather used for oil seals
-Glace Chromexcel – A version with a high gloss finish
-Vintage Chromexcel – softer with a slightly pre-aged look
Just about all of the above can be run on either cowhide or horsehide.

I wonder what Glace Chromexcel looks like?

I'm on my Android phone when all of a sudden I cannot use copy and paste function. Yea, I extracted the information out of Horween's blog post.

As of Glaced CXL, I think it's the standard CXL ran under glace jjacks. The shiny finish would be interesting.
post #13052 of 19073
The polishing I did on this stuff seems to be the cavalier by the looks of the stuff online.
post #13053 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

The polishing I did on this stuff seems to be the cavalier by the looks of the stuff online.

Cavalier seems to have smoother grain and a hot glow. I guess it takes polish then.

Other than that, we'll have to look into glace CXL and see.
post #13054 of 19073
I'm curious as to what kind of finish they put on the stuff to get it so smooth. I wonder if they do a crust chromexcel that is dyeable.
post #13055 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I'm curious as to what kind of finish they put on the stuff to get it so smooth. I wonder if they do a crust chromexcel that is dyeable.

They probably anilined then jack glazed the surface. Don't exclude the possibility of acrylic surface, though.

It is possible to have a natural CXL like that of crust calf. They have to hand swab the dye on natural hide at the tannery anyway.
post #13056 of 19073
Does regular chromexcel have a finish other than just a dye, or are they putting that acrylic bullshit on it?
post #13057 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Does regular chromexcel have a finish other than just a dye, or are they putting that acrylic bullshit on it?

From the blog post, it looks like the hide was only dyed then coat with pure neatsfoot oil. However, depending on specific order demand, I suspect many shoes had the leather coated with acrylic, and especially Alden.
post #13058 of 19073
I wouldn't trust everything in that blog post. I mean they could have left off any finishing part of it because they didn't think it necessary for the post. How else would you get a smooth shiny finish on such an oiled leather? There must be some sort of finish.
post #13059 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I wouldn't trust everything in that blog post. I mean they could have left off any finishing part of it because they didn't think it necessary for the post. How else would you get a smooth shiny finish on such an oiled leather? There must be some sort of finish.

They can jack glaze it like shell cordovan, but I cannot exclude acrylic.
post #13060 of 19073
I'll follow up with in the blog it says after it is finished drying from the dyes, "it is more or less done".
post #13061 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Does regular chromexcel have a finish other than just a dye, or are they putting that acrylic bullshit on it?

 

I don't think they put any kind of finish on CXL. I read a quote by Nick Horween once, and he said you can actually build a shine up on CXL simply by brushing it a lot over time. I have done that with my 403 CXL Indy's and they have a nice glow to them, especially when the light is good:

 

post #13062 of 19073
I've done it with wax polish, but the finish on the stuff I was doing it on seemed very dry, not at all like heavily oiled leather. What you have there looks nice, but it isn't and will never be like a mirror without some sort of building of wax on the surface.

Years ago I had shoes that I put Obenauf's leather oil on. They turned supple as anything soaked the stuff right up, but were matte to the eye, and oily to the touch. You could actually see in and leave streaks with your finger rubbing it. Nothing and I mean nothing could get it out, or make it take a mirror shine. I am pretty damn good at getting spots and stuff out of leather, but these nothing would make them take a shine. This is how I would suspect CXL to be if it wasn't finished with some sort of synthetic coating.
post #13063 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I've done it with wax polish, but the finish on the stuff I was doing it on seemed very dry, not at all like heavily oiled leather. What you have there looks nice, but it isn't and will never be like a mirror without some sort of building of wax on the surface.

Years ago I had shoes that I put Obenauf's leather oil on. They turned supple as anything soaked the stuff right up, but were matte to the eye, and oily to the touch. You could actually see in and leave streaks with your finger rubbing it. Nothing and I mean nothing could get it out, or make it take a mirror shine. I am pretty damn good at getting spots and stuff out of leather, but these nothing would make them take a shine. This is how I would suspect CXL to be if it wasn't finished with some sort of synthetic coating.

Obenauf leather oil is the bitchiest leather oil I've known of. I would take Montana Pitch Blend's oil or pure NF oil any day. I put a coat of pure NF oil over my polished AE calf vamp and it still shines, but if Obenauf oil was put on, don't expect anything but dust magnet. 

 

CXL was suppose to look natural, not polished, because it was heavily stuffed and then oiled up. You're right when saying it is possible they coated the surface with something. We knew from DW that their Huntsman was coated with acrylic.

 

As of oil on the vamp, the only best way to get rid of them would be acetone and soap. Rub acetone on, then mix natural soap with acetone and rub. 

post #13064 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

As of oil on the vamp, the only best way to get rid of them would be acetone and soap. Rub acetone on, then mix natural soap with acetone and rub. 

Did that. Didn't work. I even tried lighting them on fire, and holding them over the stovetop on full blast to try and melt the shit. Didn't work.

How does DW know that the huntsman leather is finished with acrylic?
post #13065 of 19073
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


Did that. Didn't work. I even tried lighting them on fire, and holding them over the stovetop on full blast to try and melt the shit. Didn't work.

How does DW know that the huntsman leather is finished with acrylic?

Too bad that the oil couldn't get out. How did that go in longer run?

 

He spoke about it many posts ago, and I cannot seems to be able to find it just yet. He cannot rub the hide with a bone, and Horween sent him a foul smelling bottle of acrylic stuff. 

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