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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 863

post #12931 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

I guess you have a point there. Still, I see how oiling can prolong the life, although, for whatever reason, leather still needs to be cleaned, and even getting rid of the old oil and replace it with new applications of oils.

I'm not saying it is pointless, but there is a point of decreasing marginal returns in doing so. Thereafter it is actually harmful.
post #12932 of 19061
Thought the original champagne guy was Beau Brummell.
post #12933 of 19061
Could have been, but wall was more of a character for sure
post #12934 of 19061
pB,

Have you used both the Leather Doctor Hydrator and the Fatliquor? If I read it correctly, they're supposed to be used in conjunction with each other?
post #12935 of 19061

Hey everyone, 

 

I did a search and found that Mink Oils are generally frowned upon as they either have a sticky residue on the leather after applying and drying, does not allow polish to be absorbed into the leather thus causing the leather to not take a shine, and (may be) impossible to remove. 

I too understand that not all mink oils are made the same therefore the above may vary from different mink oils. 

 

So, i've narrowed down my conditioning choices to (obviously) conditioners. But; 

 

1. where does the mink oil renovator (by the Shoe Snob) sit in the hierarchy of conditioners?

2. is there a some distinct ingredients in conditioners i should look for in each product before buying them?

3. does anyone use leather balms? or is it just another word for conditioners?

 

Regards,

post #12936 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFluffer View Post
 

Hey everyone, 

 

I did a search and found that Mink Oils are generally frowned upon as they either have a sticky residue on the leather after applying and drying, does not allow polish to be absorbed into the leather thus causing the leather to not take a shine, and (may be) impossible to remove. 

I too understand that not all mink oils are made the same therefore the above may vary from different mink oils. 

 

So, i've narrowed down my conditioning choices to (obviously) conditioners. But; 

 

1. where does the mink oil renovator (by the Shoe Snob) sit in the hierarchy of conditioners?

2. is there a some distinct ingredients in conditioners i should look for in each product before buying them?

3. does anyone use leather balms? or is it just another word for conditioners?

 

Regards,

1. Mink Oil Reno by Shoe Snob is generally a cream, like that of Saphir Reno, and should be used before polish, but after cleaning.

2. They will rarely tell you. Look for natural ingredients though. No petroleum, no silicones, no polymer (only applies to smooth leather), no alcohol, and you're quite set.

3. Saphir Leather Lotion is a leather balm. Crème Universelle is also a leather balm. Strange enough, stuff like the solid Montana Pitch Blend Leather Dressing can also be label as balm. Basically balm is a generic term for conditioner. 

 

 

Distinguish between mink oils, Fluffer, because variants of them exist - we have the liquid oil, liquid conditioner, to canned grease (the stuff from Kiwi that diminish the shine), and solid leather dressing, and to conclude, the creamy stuff from high end companies. Mink oil itself is just an oil from the animal. 

post #12937 of 19061

Right now I am using Allen Edmond Conditioner Cleaner as my conditioner. Is Saphir Renovateur worth the price or should I stick with AE conditioner?

post #12938 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Engineer View Post
 

Right now I am using Allen Edmond Conditioner Cleaner as my conditioner. Is Saphir Renovateur worth the price or should I stick with AE conditioner?

Stick to it.  No problems.  The AE cream won't leave a polished finish behind, but Renovateur will.   

post #12939 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFluffer View Post
 

Hey everyone, 

 

I did a search and found that Mink Oils are generally frowned upon as they either have a sticky residue on the leather after applying and drying, does not allow polish to be absorbed into the leather thus causing the leather to not take a shine, and (may be) impossible to remove. 

I too understand that not all mink oils are made the same therefore the above may vary from different mink oils. 

 

So, i've narrowed down my conditioning choices to (obviously) conditioners. But; 

 

1. where does the mink oil renovator (by the Shoe Snob) sit in the hierarchy of conditioners?

2. is there a some distinct ingredients in conditioners i should look for in each product before buying them?

3. does anyone use leather balms? or is it just another word for conditioners?

 

Regards,

I am using Kiwi Mink Oil on the creases on my calf leather shoes.  I touch my finger to the grease and rub it lightly along the creases (that is don't apply it, merely suggest it to your shoes).  After 24 hours, it absorbs and is gone.  Wipe down and polish as required.  FWIW, I am using mink oil as I haven't made it out to buy dubbin.  Probably no functional difference IMHO.

post #12940 of 19061
FWIW, I vaguely remember reading something here (an interview?) to the effect that much of the "mink oil" used in the industry is actually pig fat.

And when I was coming up, the watchword was that "mink oil" went rancid fairly quickly.

Just saying...
post #12941 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

pB,

Have you used both the Leather Doctor Hydrator and the Fatliquor? If I read it correctly, they're supposed to be used in conjunction with each other?

Yes, I use the Hydrator on the vamps to loosen the creases, then apply the Fatliquor until it is good and wet. Once it dries I apply it again and it is usually at this point that you can see a film on the surface. I was told this is the point where the leather won't absorb any more of it. At this point I use the Hydrator again to remove the surface residue. After it dries usually just a good brushing of the vamp will raise a dull shine. When I feel like it I will put a small amount of polish over it and brush, but it rarely needs this step in my experience. So this whole process I just do to the vamp. Everywhere else gets some sort of cream polish. Generally Glen's.
post #12942 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

FWIW, I vaguely remember reading something here (an interview?) to the effect that much of the "mink oil" used in the industry is actually pig fat.

And when I was coming up, the watchword was that "mink oil" went rancid fairly quickly.

Just saying...

Well, yes, in many cases, you're quite right, especially the cheapo guys who wants to pay less for the raw materials.

post #12943 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


Yes, I use the Hydrator on the vamps to loosen the creases, then apply the Fatliquor until it is good and wet. Once it dries I apply it again and it is usually at this point that you can see a film on the surface. I was told this is the point where the leather won't absorb any more of it. At this point I use the Hydrator again to remove the surface residue. After it dries usually just a good brushing of the vamp will raise a dull shine. When I feel like it I will put a small amount of polish over it and brush, but it rarely needs this step in my experience. So this whole process I just do to the vamp. Everywhere else gets some sort of cream polish. Generally Glen's.

I might give an extensive use of these twos later on when I move to CA, Pat. They sound great for hot weather.

post #12944 of 19061
I can't imagine why they would perform any differently.
post #12945 of 19061
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I can't imagine why they would perform any differently.

Certainly condition the leather more efficiently than Lexol without making the shoes too warm for comfort.

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