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post #12886 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

But it seems like they are getting rare (as of shoe leather, especially smooth calf).

Yet another triumph of expediency, perforce.

Notwithstanding that there seems to be considerably more available now than when I began so many years ago.
post #12887 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Yet another triumph of expediency, perforce.

Notwithstanding that there seems to be considerably more available now than when I began so many years ago.

So people can still have their shoes made of veg tanned calf, can they?

post #12888 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

One of the foremost tanneries of full veg outsoling is Baker Leather...in Colyton, Devon, England.
I currently have a strip of Baker's leather around my waist, courtesy of Equus Leather:
http://www.equusleather.co.uk/oak-brown-bakers-bridle-leather-belt.html
Really great stuff! I know this has been posted in this thread before, but here it is again in case anyone hasn't seen this BBC clip of Baker:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-14442109
post #12889 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

So people can still have their shoes made of veg tanned calf, can they?

Of course. Many many makers use a full veg for linings...for a number of reasons not the least of which is because it doesn't rot as quickly as chrome (whether that's because it isn't finished, we can only speculate).

One of the finest dress leathers in the world--upper leathers (vamp, quarters, etc) is St. Crispin Baby Calf from A.A. Crack. One of several upper leathers they carry that are pure veg.

Most, if not all, crust...which seems to be popular among the Italian and French makers...is pure veg.

There's a tannery in Germany that does nothing but veg tanned upper leathers and another that specializes in veg tanned upholstery leather.

We don't get much crust stateside but I've got friends (shoemakers) who are exploring dying veg calf/kip for uppers. Personally, I think one needs a dying vat to get the dye to penetrate into the flesh but the grain side can look terrific and take a mirror shine...in a manner not too dissimilar to crust.

And of course, in high end shoes...esp. bespoke..the insoles and outsoles, toe and heel stiffeners, as well as heel stacks will be veg tanned.
post #12890 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Of course. Many many makers use a full veg for linings...for a number of reasons not the least of which is because it doesn't rot as quickly as chrome (whether that's because it isn't finished, we can only speculate).

One of the finest dress leathers in the world--upper leathers (vamp, quarters, etc) is St. Crispin Baby Calf from A.A. Crack. One of several upper leathers they carry that are pure veg.

Most, if not all, crust...which seems to be popular among the Italian and French makers...is pure veg.

There's a tannery in Germany that does nothing but veg tanned upper leathers and another that specializes in veg tanned upholstery leather.

We don't get much crust stateside but I've got friends (shoemakers) who are exploring dying veg calf/kip for uppers. Personally, I think one needs a dying vat to get the dye to penetrate into the flesh but the grain side can look terrific and take a mirror shine...in a manner not too dissimilar to crust.

And of course, in high end shoes...esp. bespoke..the insoles and outsoles, toe and heel stiffeners, as well as heel stacks will be veg tanned.

Is it possible to have a pair of bespoke shoes completely made of veg tan leather - from the heel to the sole to the smallest detail? I am dreaming of one. I really have to battle a time proportion to come and pay you a visit some times.

 

And if anything, I like leather shoes that are only dyed lightly on the surface, especially Navy color. I don't like vat dyed stuffs. I prefer the leather to show its true nature if it was scuffed.

post #12891 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

Is it possible to have a pair of bespoke shoes completely made of veg tan leather - from the heel to the sole to the smallest detail?

Yes.
post #12892 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Yes.

Dream just came true for me!!! I'll try organize my time table. 

 

Veg tanned leather takes oils and greases better, do they?

post #12893 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

Dream just came true for me!!! I'll try organize my time table. 

Veg tanned leather takes oils and greases better, do they?

What is this obsession with oils and greases?
post #12894 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


What is this obsession with oils and greases?

Long term nourishment, Jerry, and higher water resistance capability. And since I walk a lot, normal conditioners won't stand.

post #12895 of 19066
Unnecessary, travers.
post #12896 of 19066

During summer care, I normally exclude those products, and instead just apply Lexol when the leather is damp. 

 

However, during the colder winter months (when sometimes I even wear my normal shoes out the snow), I'd have 'em oiled and greased. 

 

Shell is an exception, because it's veg tanned and was hot stuffed.

post #12897 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Unnecessary, travers.

+ 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

During summer care, I normally exclude those products, and instead just apply Lexol when the leather is damp. 

However, during the colder winter months (when sometimes I even wear my normal shoes out the snow), I'd have 'em oiled and greased. 

Shell is an exception, because it's veg tanned and was hot stuffed.

Why would you apply any kind of product to your shoes when they are damp? Does not seem like a good idea.
post #12898 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


+ 1
Why would you apply any kind of product to your shoes when they are damp? Does not seem like a good idea.

They would absorb the right amount, Jerry, and they won't get soggy. Dry leather would suck up the liquid nourishment in matters of seconds, and create the illusion of them being very dry, when in fact, those excess conditioner will make the leather damn soggy in later wear, and possibly prevent a shine, even.

 

Apply the product when damp will give it just the right amount, and will prevent the leather from getting soggy. When the leather is completely dry, it will not prevent a shine - you can even brush the surface and get the healthy, smooth look.

post #12899 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

They would absorb the right amount, Jerry, and they won't get soggy. Dry leather would suck up the liquid nourishment in matters of seconds, and create the illusion of them being very dry, when in fact, those excess conditioner will make the leather damn soggy in later wear, and possibly prevent a shine, even.

Apply the product when damp will give it just the right amount, and will prevent the leather from getting soggy. When the leather is completely dry, it will not prevent a shine - you can even brush the surface and get the healthy, smooth look.

You have a unique approach to shoe care.
post #12900 of 19066
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrybrowne View Post


You have a unique approach to shoe care.

I was always the crazy oddball, Jerry.

 

@patrickBOOTH remember the time when you thought I was trolling when I said I greased my shell cordovan? LOL!!!

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