I was heartbroken to know of the truth...
Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) Last post on Today at 12:19 pm in Classic Menswear
- Sole Welting Last post on 1/14/16 at 8:10am in Classic Menswear
- St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread Last post on 12/1/16 at 7:41am in Classic Menswear
- Carmina Shoes - Official Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc...) Last post on Today at 9:22 am in Classic Menswear
- Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) Last post on Today at 12:54 pm in Classic Menswear
Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Plaza Last
Last edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds: Sizing GuideLast edited: 4/29/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X LastLast edited: 4/4/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Hampton LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Leydon LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- House of Kydos
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 848post #12706 of 190401/5/15 at 6:55ampost #12707 of 190401/5/15 at 6:55ampost #12708 of 190401/5/15 at 6:56amQuote:
Well, the wrong idea is how people rub the polish with the bone, when the bone was primarily for the restoration of the leather, not to apply polish. The bone may polish the leather, in the case of waxed calf, as in the polish applied, then bone to a shine.post #12709 of 190401/5/15 at 6:59ampost #12710 of 190401/5/15 at 7:09amQuote:
A bone rubbed on damp veg tanned leather will burnish and shine it. On Traditional Waxed calf, the same concept is employed but a "sizing" is added to bind the loose fibers together and to aid in raising the shine. Shoe polish or wax is incidental--beside the point.
Edited by DWFII - 1/5/15 at 7:19ampost #12711 of 190401/5/15 at 7:11amQuote:
I did...give me a time setting (and maybe a link back to the video) and I'll see if I know what is going on and try to explain. I thought I recognized everything in the video but I don't do everything the way they do.
--post #12712 of 190401/5/15 at 7:16amQuote:
Well, DW did say the job was going to be quite nasty.
My deer bone was sorta blackened, even when I used a wax dressing capable of raising a shine, not paste wax polish, which could have messed up further.post #12713 of 190401/5/15 at 7:24ampost #12714 of 190401/5/15 at 7:34amQuote:Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
At like 1:56 the woman feeds the uppers through some sort of weird machine, but I can't tell what the purpose is. Right after it looks like she is skiving? the uppers around the edges to maybe make them thinner? Is that what's happening there? For what, so the pattern edges lay flatter?
The machine is known as a "Bell skiver." I have two of them. They are extremely useful when used judiciously. But they can "eat" a shoe pretty quickly. And they can also leave a ridge" where the edge of the blade passed. So she's cleaning up the skive...looks like she's widening and leveling it...by hand, where more control can be brought to bear.
As for why the edges are skived...because in every instance the leather will be laying over, or under, another piece of leather. Without the skives, there would be lumps and the shoes would be uncomfortable.post #12715 of 190401/5/15 at 7:35ampost #12716 of 190401/5/15 at 7:39amQuote:
At first blush, no. I'd have to go back and review the whole vid with a more critical eye.
That said, I don't peg the waist of my shoes. I do peg the waists of my boots...sometime the whole outsole. But I like a welted waist on shoes.post #12717 of 190401/5/15 at 7:45ampost #12718 of 190401/5/15 at 7:47ampost #12719 of 190401/5/15 at 7:57amA few things jump out at me...I use a thicker insole and don't use the fiberboard heelseat reinforcement. I temper the insole and mold it to the bottom of the last. When I make my holdfast I don't remove a wedge of leather in the channel. No staples or cork used here.
It's a well made shoe.post #12720 of 190401/5/15 at 8:00amQuote:
Hand stitching preserves the old holes in the welt and prevents new ones from being made.Quote:
Well, that's why shoemaking is called "The Art and Mysterie." Just takes time in harness.
- Allen Edmonds: Sizing Guide
- › How many miles did you run today? 1 minute ago
- › Recent purchases - Part II 2 minutes ago
- › John Elliott - official affiliate thread 3 minutes ago
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 3 minutes ago
- › Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects. 3 minutes ago
- › LL Bean Athletic Sweats Crewneck 3 minutes ago
- › MTM or Bespoke Tailcoat Tuxedo? 4 minutes ago
- › Toj A-2 Fur Collar 4 minutes ago
- › Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread 5 minutes ago
- › What Movies Are You Watching Lately 7 minutes ago
- › Alden #907 Straight Tip Bal Calfskin by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Fashion Forward brands that will be big in
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway