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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 85

post #1261 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northampton Novice View Post

Whilst neural shoe polish has it's uses, I wouldn't advocate using it instead of it's coloured/pigmented counterparts on a regular basis.
With sustained use of neutral polish, the higher solvent properties, will strip and therefore overtime dull the vibrancy of your shoes.
It's effects are most noticeable on shoes with antiquing or crust leathers. You'll find some shoe manufacturers don't recommend it for routine polishing.


My own experience of Saphir neutral is that it's easier to get that high shine on the toe cap when doing the spit/shine method using neutral polish. I am not using it for long enough to comment on the crud buildup, however I don't see any evidence that the neutral polish has higher solvent properties than the colored polish. In the case of Saphir they all have the same formula written on the tin, turps, carnauba and beeswax.

post #1262 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Once again, you'd only buy colored wax?
Regarding the mix of two, should I apply the lighter color first and then top it of with the darker one?

I would only use colored. I don't think it matters what you use first. Any significant color deposits take a very long time to really develop.
post #1263 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

Once again, you'd only buy colored wax?
Regarding the mix of two, should I apply the lighter color first and then top it of with the darker one?

I utilise both coloured and neutral. It's just that I don't use the neutral (for the reasons outlined in my earlier post) frequently.
post #1264 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry View Post

I don't see any evidence that the neutral polish has higher solvent properties than the colored polish. In the case of Saphir they all have the same formula written on the tin, turps, carnauba and beeswax.

Thanks for sharing Gerry. I wondered if you could tell me since they ALL have the same formula written on the tin - does that mean they are ALL the same? last time I checked they came in different colours...except the neutral of course.

I should add, I've never had any 'crud' build up with Saphir neutral.
post #1265 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northampton Novice View Post


Thanks for sharing Gerry. I wondered if you could tell me since they ALL have the same formula written on the tin - does that mean they are ALL the same? last time I checked they came in different colours...except the neutral of course.
I should add, I've never had any 'crud' build up with Saphir neutral.



Your welcome. What I ment of course is I see no evidence that the neutral polish contains higher solvent properties than the colored polishes. Maybe it does and if this is the case I would indeed be less likely to use it so much.

 

post #1266 of 11293
How long will a tin of MdO wax stay fresh/usable?
How to treat the pebble grain of my Cheaney FS029?
The classic Timberland boot should be treated like suede/nubuck leather, right?
post #1267 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

How long will a tin of MdO wax stay fresh/usable?
How to treat the pebble grain of my Cheaney FS029?
The classic Timberland boot should be treated like suede/nubuck leather, right?

A long time if stored correctly
The same as any other calf leather
yes
post #1268 of 11293
I properly close my tins the way they come from Avel/Saphir and have them stored in an open drawer of a cupboard where they are not affected by direct exposure of light. Temperatures should be between 18 and 25 °C for the whole year.
They should last for a few years, right?
I am planing to place an order for colors of which I do not yet posses shoes of.
post #1269 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

How long will a tin of MdO wax stay fresh/usable?

Depends how often you open it and for how long. If you are keen to keep it fresher for longer - store the tins in a polythene zip bag.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

How to treat the pebble grain of my Cheaney FS029?

It's a tough boot, treating it with any good similar coloured shoe cream will keep the leather in good condition and polishing with wax will improve it's water repelling ability.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis XIV View Post

The classic Timberland boot should be treated like suede/nubuck leather, right?
As far as I know that's what it is - I do spray my Timberlands with a suede protector. I don't use Timberlands own protector because it's overpriced, the Saphir Invulner is totally useless - their worst product in my opinion.
post #1270 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northampton Novice View Post

...and therefore over time dull the vibrancy of your shoes.

that's almost prose...
post #1271 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northampton Novice View Post

Whilst neural shoe polish has it's uses, I wouldn't advocate using it instead of it's coloured/pigmented counterparts on a regular basis.
With sustained use of neutral polish, the higher solvent properties, will strip and therefore overtime dull the vibrancy of your shoes.
It's effects are most noticeable on shoes with antiquing or crust leathers. You'll find some shoe manufacturers don't recommend it for routine polishing.

I agree that using neutral polish is not recommended on a regular basis. Since there is no pigment in the polish, you will simply see some of the oils trapped in the wax with too many layers, which will cause the polish to look dull (just like it does in the tin). A coat or two of neutral over a smooth pigmented wax base will give the shine some depth and make for a great spit shine however.

As for neutral polish having higher solvent properties, I have not experenced it. And, while I have been polishing my own shoes for close to 40 years, I have not been using Saphir products for nearly that long. I think it would be great if Kirbya could ask the makers of Saphir this question (since he has developed a relationship with them). I have sent a request to Kiwi with the same question, as I think this is very useful information to have.

I believe that the reason neutral polish is sometimes recommended (certainly not by me) as a way to remove other polish is because solvents in any shoe polish will break down the surface wax for removal, and neutral wax will not add pigment to the shoe. I suspect this has limited effect however. With antiquing you have the same situation, the solvents break down the surface wax, and the neutral allows the result to show. Just my opinion of course, but I'm happy to be proved wrong.
post #1272 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenjay View Post

I agree that using neutral polish is not recommended on a regular basis. Since there is no pigment in the polish, you will simply see some of the oils trapped in the wax with too many layers, which will cause the polish to look dull (just like it does in the tin). A coat or two of neutral over a smooth pigmented wax base will give the shine some depth and make for a great spit shine however.
As for neutral polish having higher solvent properties, I have not experenced it. And, while I have been polishing my own shoes for close to 40 years, I have not been using Saphir products for nearly that long. I think it would be great if Kirbya could ask the makers of Saphir this question (since he has developed a relationship with them). I have sent a request to Kiwi with the same question, as I think this is very useful information to have.
I believe that the reason neutral polish is sometimes recommended (certainly not by me) as a way to remove other polish is because solvents in any shoe polish will break down the surface wax for removal, and neutral wax will not add pigment to the shoe. I suspect this has limited effect however. With antiquing you have the same situation, the solvents break down the surface wax, and the neutral allows the result to show. Just my opinion of course, but I'm happy to be proved wrong.

I suspect your analysis is correct.
post #1273 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Northampton Novice View Post
 
neural shoe polish 

 

Ah, at last the only shoe polish that harnesses the inner power of the human mind...

 

 

 

post #1274 of 11293
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatisteve View Post

Wow, thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread, it has been a great read and very informative. I had a couple questions regarding some leathers in my collection. I have a pair of Alden Indy AF64s (very similar to the 404) with the heavily oiled Kudu leather. I also have a pair of Alden McTavishes in waxy black leather (from their Rough Collection). Of course I'm not looking to have either of these be pristine or shiny, but is there anything I should do in the name of general upkeep besides keeping the in shoe trees and in rotation? I have the AE saddle soap, which they recommend, but I'm wondering if I should just wear them and let Alden/AE take care of them during recrafting.

Any advice regarding Kudu and waxy leather?
post #1275 of 11293
Is there any cost savings in buying Saphir products in Paris after factoring in exchange rate?
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