Curious to why you suggest aromatic oil, they can actually be very harsh. I just can't see a benefit other then making your feet smell nice.
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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 838post #12556 of 1892812/30/14 at 5:21pmpost #12557 of 1892812/30/14 at 6:06pmpost #12558 of 1892812/30/14 at 6:41pmjust got my 1k Miles in the mail. hit them with Lexol and threw some shoe trees in them. they are a size 10 and I am using the Jos A Bank "Large" shoe tree. it was kind of hard to get it in there and i am not sure it is fitting correctly.
here they are after Lexol and before buffing
and here they are with the shoe trees in thempost #12559 of 1892812/30/14 at 9:54pmQuote:
Coconut oil and beeswax have all of those properties without being harsh and potentially stripping the leather. The 'Russian leather' example you suggested uses a very specific aromatic oil (birch from poland and russia). Giving one example of an aromatic oil that is used successfully in leather as proof that any aromatic oil will do makes no sense. Different aromatic oils have different properties, and recommending them as a group is illogical. You would need to look into the effects of specific aromatic oils.post #12560 of 1892812/30/14 at 10:05pmQuote:Originally Posted by AAJJLLPP
Coconut oil and beeswax have all of those properties without being harsh and potentially stripping the leather. The 'Russian leather' example you suggested uses a very specific aromatic oil (birch from poland and russia). Giving one example of an aromatic oil that is used successfully in leather as proof that any aromatic oil will do makes no sense. Different aromatic oils have different properties, and recommending them as a group is illogical. You would need to look into the effects of specific aromatic oils.
Damn dude, how keen are you LOL!!!!
OK, Russian leather used birch tar oil, which gives off a very distinctive aroma and also preserves the leather for, pretty much, eternity (the Caterina(?) ship stuff). Cedar oil was reportedly used by Natives (around Washington where I am currently living for another 7+ months) - note, "reported", because they used it on a whole shit load of other things. Cedar oil was used in British Museum Leather Dressing, though. Turpentine oils were also seen in some very old recipe of leather dressing - note - oil, not the distilled solvent.
You don't use the pure aromatic oils by itself. Never. Russian leather tradesmen used to mixed seal oil and birch tar oil as a currying concoction.
No, they are not solvents to strip the leather. If they strip, they are solvents, not preservative agents.
Dig in a little deeper and you'll see.post #12561 of 1892812/30/14 at 10:07pmpost #12562 of 1892812/31/14 at 7:08ampost #12563 of 1892812/31/14 at 7:35amQuote:Originally Posted by thefastlife
just got my 1k Miles in the mail. hit them with Lexol and threw some shoe trees in them. they are a size 10 and I am using the Jos A Bank "Large" shoe tree. it was kind of hard to get it in there and i am not sure it is fitting correctly.
here they are after Lexol and before buffing
and here they are with the shoe trees in them
judging from the photos i cant see any fitting problems of the shoe trees maybe a size bigger!btw you have to have the laces fasten or at least looped when you have shoe trees in them!! what's the signs that makes you wonder?Quote:
Jimmy i think they are just perfect!! Not long for sure!!!
i think DWfii ll be a better judge of the photopost #12564 of 1892812/31/14 at 8:00am
Sad to say, no one can judge fit from a photo...not with any certainty. All you can say is that on a medium round toed shoe the "given wisdom" (Sabbage, et al) is that there ought to be roughly one inch clearance from the end of the toes to the inside wall of the shoe...depending on your definition of "medium round."
Wider toes less, narrower toes more, extended toes more.
That said, the length of the foot is of little or no importance. The real criteria for fit in this context is the heel to ball length on the foot relative to the heel to ball length on the last.post #12565 of 1892812/31/14 at 11:56ampost #12566 of 1892812/31/14 at 12:15pmpost #12567 of 1892812/31/14 at 12:47pmpost #12568 of 1892812/31/14 at 1:57pmpost #12569 of 1892812/31/14 at 3:04pmpost #12570 of 189281/1/15 at 7:11amQuote:Originally Posted by DWFII
It appears to be a flesh side out leather that was intended to be "rough and ready" looking. The velvet-y appearance of a suede or split leather was not the goal.
If you accept that analysis, you can do most anything you want with them--condition with light conditioners such as Bick4, waterproof them with ointments such as Montana Pitch Blend. Be aware that creams and ointments will mat down the nap.
If you're looking to preserve the appearance, you can waterproof and condition them with various aerosol "suede" products.
I would not use products that feel greasy or heavy in oils...the chances are high that the leather is a split and that means that it may be looser than a reverse leather. Such heavy products will only loosen the fiber mat and make the leather limp and stretchy.
Leaving them as they are...without much attention beyond a plastic suede brush, every now and again...might very well be the best bet.
Thank you very much for your help.
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