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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 826

post #12376 of 12380
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post
 

 

 

 

Agree. Also, the manufacturer must take a lot more time in lasting(my assumption) as you don't have seams to bend around the waist and vamp.  Alfred Sargent Milton in 99 last.

It's horrible, thinking of the kind of work shoemakers must go through to make a pair of wholecut, yet they look so simple and elegant. 

post #12377 of 12380
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

It's horrible, thinking of the kind of work shoemakers must go through to make a pair of wholecut, yet they look so simple and elegant. 

A whole cut is not any harder than any other shoe...maybe less so. In fact, it is the style I teach students with. But because it is such a blank canvas every aspect must be approached with a somewhat higher degree of accuracy and finesse.

Many many whole cuts I see posted on SF look to me as if the maker didn't have a clue as to what to do with...how to handle...the stitching at the bottom of the facings. Such awkwardness gets lost or covered when a shoe is pieced but it stands stark on a full cut.

One line of stitching...worse, two...around the topline is going to draw the eye because there's nothing else to look at. If it "wobbles" it's going to be seen. The eye is going to be drawn to that deviation...even if the conscious mind doesn't register it, the subconscious mind will. And it's going to detract from the shoe.

That's the challenge of a whole cut.
post #12378 of 12380
So maybe not harder since possibly not as time consuming as other styles but does require another level of perfection and attention to detail, hence could be argued to be more difficult?
post #12379 of 12380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beach Bum View Post

So maybe not harder since possibly not as time consuming as other styles but does require another level of perfection and attention to detail, hence could be argued to be more difficult?

It certainly requires a somewhat...slightly...better than average skill in clicking and stitching. But, more importantly it requires the eye and judgement that comes with years of experience.

That said, even conceptually the whole cut (not seamless whole cut) is simplicity itself. That's what makes it so elegant.
post #12380 of 12380
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post

Agree. Also, the manufacturer must take a lot more time in lasting(my assumption) as you don't have seams to bend around the waist and vamp.  Alfred Sargent Milton in 99 last.

A manufacturer might. But a bespoke maker not so much.

As a bespoke maker, I am not alone in "crimping" a "blocker" that is "pre-shaped" roughly like the last. This avoids the problems, and the "surplus army goods," that build up in the joint and waist when you try to make a whole cut from a flat pattern. Whole cut chelseas are crimped; jodhpurs too if you believe Patrick (Modern Pattern Cutting and Design)....and I do and have done. And seamless wholecuts are blocked right on the last. So it's an old...very old...and revered technique.

But presumably crimping is too much time and trouble for many manufacturers.
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