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I think there are places where synthetic materials are not necessarily bad. I topyed most of my shoe, and I know some of the cheaper ones I used to have probably have synthetic toe puff and as far as durability goes, I can't see the difference...
To cut to the chase: is the suggestion, now, that Goodyear welting is not a particularly good thing?
Can I assume that making the entire upper out of single piece of leather is along the same lines? It required finding a large flawless piece, and then the shows off the labor of a highly skilled craftsperson? Few people who run the machines at shoe factory could make a shoe like this at all, even if they were given the time and materials to try?
http://www.hewitonline.com/Leather_s/3.htm
Grading - The grading of leather is based on holes, grain scratches and other defects such as staining or shape. In principle, we look at the undamaged part of a skin and try to assess how usable it is. A first grade skin should yield a large rectangle, centered on the spine and extending most of the way to the edges. There may be one or more small damages near the edges but these should not detract from the overall efficiency of cutting. A second grade skin should be suitable for smaller full bindings or for large half- and quarter-bindings. Where offered, such as in our calf range of products, lower grades are likely to have more defects spread across the skins and are most suitable for repair and rebacking work where relatively small pieces are required. If you need to order leather for a specific project, the safest option is to let us have details of the number and dimensions of panels you require. We can then choose the most appropriate skin or skins and provide a quotation for your consideration.
http://www.hewit.com/skin_deep/?volume=10&article=2
Grading
I write about grading with a little trepidation. The reason for this is that everybody has their own ideas about how a skin should be graded. I thought however that it would be worth putting J. Hewit & Sons grading system down on paper considering that we are now dealing directly with more new customers since the advent of our on-line web catalogue. I am going to divide the leather types into "Commercial" (all resin pigmented leathers) and "Craft" (all leathers suitable for handwork).
Commercial
I have included in the commercial leathers all smooth, glazed and embossed pigmented leathers. These leathers are generally only sold in 2 grades, 1st and 2nd. Generally the grade I skins are blemish-free, although it is possible that a small defect might be found at the edge of the skin. Grade 2 skins will have either a hole or some defect that has not covered with the embossing or haircell print, however in most cases there is still sufficient clean area for at least one full binding. As a rule we normally assume the glazed sheep skivers are more often going to be used for titling pieces, and this results in a higher proportion of grade 2 skins being found in this leather.
Craft Leathers
I have included in the craft leathers all those leathers with a natural grain suitable for handwork - Bookcalf, Chieftain and Clansman Goats etc. The majority of our craft leathers are available three grades - 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
I am first of all going to mention Bookcalf, (and associated pure aniline leathers). In the case of these leathers where there is no surface coating at all the number of perfect skins runs at only about 1-2%, although there is a sizeable proportion of skins with VERY minor damage. In the case of Calfskins this small percentage are separated out as "Super" grade, whilst the "near perfect" skins are sold as grade 1. Don't expect to be able to order 15 Super quality calf at one go, but if you require one or two perfect skins for some priceless book they are there if required.
With the other craft leathers where there is a degree of surface coating, the 1st grade skins, as one would expect, are as a whole blemish free. There might be a small defect on the belly edge or up in the neck area of the skin, but any such damage should be outside the main cutting area in the centre of the skin. Whilst it would be wonderful to be able to offer all grade 1 skins, we do not live in a perfect world. The proportion of grade 1 skins varies depending on the leather type, but is normally in the range of 10-25%. The bulk of what is left is made up of grade 2 skins.
All grade 2 leathers have some sort of blemish on the grain or flesh of the skin that will show up if incorporated into a binding. These blemishes can vary from a flay mark on the back of the skin, through scratches to holes in the skin. As a rule grade 2 skins will have sufficient clean areas to allow at least one full A4 binding to be cut blemish-free. On the smaller leathers such as the Clansman Niger this is not always possible, and in these cases a view is taken on whether the blemishes are "closed" - can be incorporated into a binding, or "open". There has, of course, got to be some sort of boundary between a grade 2 skin and that of a grade 3 skin, and this by its very nature has to be indistinct. The grading will depend on the number and severity of the blemishes taken in relationship to the size of the skin. A large skin with several major blemishes concentrated in one area leaving a good clean area on the skin will be classified as grade 2, whilst a smaller skin with a series of minor marks scattered over the whole surface will be downgraded to a 3rd grade skin.
This system of grading has worked fairly successfully for many years with our customers in the UK (although I'll no doubt now be flooded with complaints!!). If you are at all unsure of the grade you require, or have an unusual book size, it is worth noting that we are very willing to size skins to customer's requirements. This generally benefits both J. Hewit & Sons and you as Binders since you will receive the most price-efficient skins available from stock, and we can hold onto the limited numbers of grade 1 skins for those customers where price is of lesser importance.
http://www.hewit.com/download/fs-tol.pdf
Bookcalf
Our Bookcalf originates mainly from New Zealand and Scandinavia. The skins are vegetable tanned using Tara and/or Sumac. They are then aniline dyed and dried on our 'glass' drying machine to enhance the natural smoothness and beauty associated with this quality of leather. The surface is absorbent and lends itself well to additional dyeing by the user.
Library Calf
This leather undergoes the same processing as the Bookcalf, but instead of leaving the skins with the aniline look, we finish off the surface with a light pigment coating. This finish lends itself very well to the "trade" binder, as it is more scuff-resistant than the Bookcalf.
http://www.hewit.com/downloads/#price-lists
Book Calf
1st grade, 274.90 GBP
2nd grade, 194.90 GBP
3rd grade, 169.90 GBP
4th grade, 107.50 GBP
Library Calf
1st grade, 237.40 GBP
2nd grade, 167.40 GBP
To cut to the chase: is the suggestion, now, that Goodyear welting is not a particularly good thing?
Firstly, I can't say enough how helpful this thread is. Caused me to sign up just based on it alone.
I'm a young guy (23) fresh out of college and starting a professional career where I have to dress pretty nice every day. Just purchased two sets of J&M dress shoes (tan + black) to go with another pair I already own. I never realized there was so much to shoe care and want to take care of them myself so they will last a long time. Can someone just confirm I have a basic set of steps + materials needed?
-Shoe trees
-2 horsehair shine brushes (1 for black, 1 for browns)
-Kiwi shoe polish (black, brown, tan)
-Meltonian shoe cream (black, brown, tan)
-AE Conditioner/Cleaner OR Lexol leather conditioner
Steps:
-Clean w damp cloth (light soap) if needed to remove dirt, debris
-Apply conditioner, let sit for a while, come back and buff it out
-Add shoe cream or polish (plan to rotate every few times to mix between conditioning leather and keeping a nice shine), move to next shoe, buff out with brush, shine with cloth
-Put shoe trees back in and rotate shoes every 2-3 days for wear
I know there are a bunch of different ways to do it, but in general does this sound ok?
I think there are places where synthetic materials are not necessarily bad. I topyed most of my shoe, and I know some of the cheaper ones I used to have probably have synthetic toe puff and as far as durability goes, I can't see the difference...
I think the synthetic toe and heel stiffeners are unlikely to cause significant problems as long as your shoes have a good rotation, are allowed to dry well after wearing, and are kept with shoe trees. The synthetic materials don't breathe, so moisture collects in the lining and can't pass through the stiffener and upper to exit the shoe. They increase the harmful environment that is destructive to leather in the long run (i.e. salty sweat). This may or may not ever cause the shoe to be "worn out" sooner than one with a natural leather stiffener, because of the multitude of reasons that shoes wear out. However, it is theoretically a "weak link", just like canvas gemming is. Shoes with as few weak links as possible should theoretically be the longest lasting ones, but you simply can't worry yourself over all of the possibilities.
A pair of Frommer's from DWFII essentially has zero weak links, which is something that can't be said of many shoes out there.
Agreed with all of this...but let's bring economics back into this. I do think shoes can be an investment, just not one that appreciates itself.