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**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.** - Page 775

post #11611 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

I personally don't like shell in wet conditions.

 

I don't think it handles it well and then is a pain to clean off everytime.

 

Are you suggesting SF common myth of shell being great inclement weather material is wrong?!?!?

 

David Copeland & Sons' inquisition starts now!

post #11612 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyJones View Post

If I recall correctly @patrickBOOTH
Mentioned a white vinegar solution to remove salt stains. Hopefully he can chime in.

@thefastlife you'll likely want to winter proof them with something like sno-seal or Obenaufs hdlp. (I think sno-seal might contain silicone tho)

doesn't Sno-Seal take away the shine from the shoe completely?
post #11613 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

NOOOOOOOOOO! smile.gif  
So, if I were to persist DWF, the next best thing? 




probably pB's suggestion.





Quote:
Originally Posted by thefastlife View Post

doesn't Sno-Seal take away the shine from the shoe completely?

Yes...Sno-Seal, Obenaufs, Montana PitchBlend anything with silicone, mink oil, mineral oil or greases, will leave a residue that will rsist shining.
post #11614 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzyJones View Post


If I recall correctly @patrickBOOTH
Mentioned a white vinegar solution to remove salt stains. Hopefully he can chime in.

@thefastlife you'll likely want to winter proof them with something like sno-seal or Obenaufs hdlp. (I think sno-seal might contain silicone tho)

Sno seal, matter of fact, contains petroleum chemical byproducts, though, not silicone.

post #11615 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post
 

 

Are you suggesting SF common myth of shell being great inclement weather material is wrong?!?!?

 

David Copeland & Sons' inquisition starts now!

Not triggering anything, I'm not in the copeland family by any chance :D

post #11616 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post




probably pB's suggestion.



Yes...Sno-Seal, Obenaufs, Montana PitchBlend anything with silicone, mink oil, mineral oil or greases, will leave a residue that will rsist shining.

DW, the thick harness leather stuff that was used in saddlery, some 10-12 oz thick, can it be used in boots and shoes?

post #11617 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post
 

I started to buy different stuff about recently because of some inputs of this forum.  I believe Ron rider was the one that quote most of the following statments (sorry in advance if I am mistaken or are any other forum members involve in the quotations).  This is a recopilatory I have from the SF.

 

 

"True shoe aficionados can argue for hours over whether wax or cream is the most effective polish for their prized footwear. Both are effective, and the use of one or the other is certainly necessary for the proper upkeep of your shoes.
 

IV.-Paste (Wax) Polish

Finding the "˜recipe' that manufacturers use for their paste, or wax, polish is as difficult as prying a BBQ sauce recipe from a Texan - can't seem to be done. Nevertheless, in examining the Material Handling Safety Datasheets that the government requires of these concoctions, it appears that the overwhelming ingredient is Stoddard Solvent (Naphtha) which, in the case of Kiwi (division of Sara Lee) and Kelly's (Fiebings, Inc. in Milwaukee) exceeds 90%. The two other popular shoe polish brands here, Lincoln and Angelus, do not make their MSDS as readily available, so I cannot speak to their main ingredient, but both seem to contain more pigment/waxes than the more popular Kiwi*. A notable exception is the Avel wax polishes (Saphir and Medaille D'Or) which both use a turpentine (natural) base. All use some combination of Carnauba and Beeswax as a binder.

Despite this information, which would seem to counter-act the marketing messages of these products, all are useful in the general upkeep of the finish of fine dress shoes. A personal observation is that Lincoln and the Avel polishes are the most effective in regards to coverage, protection and filling/fixing minor scuffs and cuts.



III.-Cream Polish


Available in a huge variety of colors, CREAM Polish is very similar to the harder WAX polishes with the main difference being some subtraction of solvent and a corresponding addition of mineral oil, or similar ingredient. While equal in it's ability to impart color, the cream polishes generally do not have the same ability to cover the inevitable scuffs and cuts that a leather shoe is prone to experience. In addition to the above manufacturers, others of note are Urad (Italy), Colonnil (Germany) and Smart (Turkey).


II.-Conditioner/Cleaners

The most under-used products in the shoe care market might very well be the neutral, more natural "˜cleaner & conditioner' products. In my opinion, the continual use of these products on a weekly (or more often) basis is far more important to the overall "˜health' of a fine leather upper than even the regular use of colored waxes and creams. Easy to apply, these products all go a long way in keeping leather supple, protected and, in the case of the brown tones, help to bring out that all important "˜patina' that can only develop naturally thru time and attention. Containing little or no harmful chemicals, any of the following are worth investing in: Allen Edmonds Conditioner/Cleaner, Crema Alpina (Italy), Renovateur by Avel (Spain/France) and Lexol (USA).



The Process

start by applying a liberal amount of one of the conditioner/cleaners mentioned above. Allow a few minutes and promptly rub briskly with a cotton or felt rag. The shoe bags that often come in the box with "˜better' shoes are ideal for this...simply cut into large strips for your polishing use.

 

Next, apply the appropriate shoe cream to areas that are showing the most wear. It is not necessary for the colors to match exactly (except for black, obviously), but to either blend in, or to highlight at your choosing. For example, a "˜cognac' colored shoe might see "˜tan', "˜mahogany', "˜light brown' or "˜mid-brown' polishes; or maybe all four. Experiment.

 

 After the cream hazes over, apply another coat of cleaner/conditioner and let sit for a few minutes. Take a high quality horsehair brush (the best are from Frank-Brushes, in Germany) and brush along the sides and across the vamp (top to the tip).

 

Next, apply your choice of wax/paste polish and, again, allow to haze over. After 5 minutes or so, brush off as before.

 

Finally, re-apply one more coat off cleaner/conditioner, allow to dry for a minute or two, and brush again.

 

You can stop now, or continue to a "˜spit-shine' step, which really just involves taking and old necktie (or nylon hose), misting a little water onto your shoe, and rapidly buffing with the silk rag. The heat from the quick motion combined with a little water will "˜build' another protective layer onto your shoe.

 

A final step, though one I do not really recommend for most, is to use a "˜edge dye' (we simply use leather dye from Fiebings) to dye the sole/welt edge and trim. This is tricky, and it is easy to ruin an upper if you do not do this carefully with the included dauber, so I would leave this to the cobbler, but the leather dye is readily available from Fiebings."

 


Thats what we are doing here, discussing on the Shoe Care issue, so please lets put personal things aside.  

 

Thanks both Travercsao and PCK1 for your personal experiences and contributions. It seems I am at the starting point..:violin:

Nothing personal in here for me. Just being offended isn't any funny.

 

So, yes, welcome. And, for what it's worth, the process mention above is the basic. Depends on the condition of the footwear, you might as well want to alter it a little bit.

post #11618 of 19067
Yep, vinegar helps with salt stains. I just have beater shoes for bad weather.
post #11619 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

DW, the thick harness leather stuff that was used in saddlery, some 10-12 oz thick, can it be used in boots and shoes?

What "thick harness leather stuff?" I'm not sure if you are talking about leather or greases...and if the latter, "some 10-12 oz thick" doesn't make sense.
post #11620 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


What "thick harness leather stuff?" I'm not sure if you are talking about leather or greases...and if the latter, "some 10-12 oz thick" doesn't make sense.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/harness-leather-9060-65.aspx - I've seen and handle this stuff. I don't know if it would be impossible to make footwear or garment leather, though. Belts were made out of it, but other than belt, no more garments than that.

post #11621 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Yep, vinegar helps with salt stains. I just have beater shoes for bad weather.

I tried 3 water to 1 vinegar once. However, the leather stinks of vinegar smell since the application. Did I do something wrong?

post #11622 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by traverscao View Post

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/harness-leather-9060-65.aspx - I've seen and handle this stuff. I don't know if it would be impossible to make footwear or garment leather, though. Belts were made out of it, but other than belt, no more garments than that.

It's a vegetable tanned leather...in all probability a synthetic vegetable tannage.. Veg tan leathers have been used for shoes time-out-of-mind moreso than chrome or other tannages. Still used for insoles and outsoles in better quality shoes.

Some of the best shoe leathers in the world are vegetable tanned....

This tannage, however, is not suitable for shoes except of the roughest, most primitive character.

It is too heavy for vamps unless a lining is omitted. Not heavy enough for insoles or outsoles.

It is oil stuffed which means that it won't shine easily.
post #11623 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


It's a vegetable tanned leather...in all probability a synthetic vegetable tannage.. Veg tan leathers have been used for shoes time-out-of-mind moreso than chrome or other tannages. Still used for insoles and outsoles in better quality shoes.

Some of the best shoe leathers in the world are vegetable tanned....

This tannage, however, is not suitable for shoes except of the roughest, most primitive character.

It is too heavy for vamps unless a lining is omitted. Not heavy enough for insoles or outsoles.

It is oil stuffed which means that it won't shine easily.

Well, if there is any boot made out of that leather, my first vote would be unline. No polishing necessary - I would likely take it for a rough trip.

post #11624 of 19067
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


It's a vegetable tanned leather...in all probability a synthetic vegetable tannage.. Veg tan leathers have been used for shoes time-out-of-mind moreso than chrome or other tannages. Still used for insoles and outsoles in better quality shoes.

Some of the best shoe leathers in the world are vegetable tanned....

This tannage, however, is not suitable for shoes except of the roughest, most primitive character.

It is too heavy for vamps unless a lining is omitted. Not heavy enough for insoles or outsoles.

It is oil stuffed which means that it won't shine easily.

Wait... synthetic vegetable tanned?

post #11625 of 19067

I use light amounts of Saphir Renovateur approximately once or twice per year along with brushing for a minute or two before and after each wear.  Sometimes I also take a damp rag to wipe the shoes down.  When they look a bit dull, I add a little Saphir cream to bring the color back to life.  I have about 20 pairs of shoes in the rotation and I work indoors, so my wear is very slow and easy.  I am happy to report that I have never had a pair of shoes self-destruct.  I'm sure there are better ways to take care of shoes, but this seems to work OK for me and it does not take a tremendous amount of time.  

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