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TDP

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Dear Censors of Shoe Care!,
I am writing to ask for help with a rough patch that's cropped up in my shoe-care routine. I brush my shoes regularly, and every five wearings I do this:
I apply Renovateur;
let the shoe sit for a few hours;
then apply a coat of Saphir's shea-butter cream of the same colour or neutral, and let the shoe sit for a day;
then finish with a coat of wax all over the shoe, bulling on the toe, and some cream on the vamp to prevent creasing. (Between most steps above, I brush with a horsehair brush to make even the distribution of stuff on the shoe.)

This has served me well for years, only today, many of the pairs that were waiting for their coat of wax developed dry, rougher patches on the toe when I tried to bull it. Here is a pair of Lattzanis that show this:
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There was some whitish residue---which I took to be old wax---in the rough area, so I applied renovateur again on the area, then cream, then tried to wax, but the patch remains.

What do you think is causing this? And would you propose I do? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!


Perhaps one useful piece of evidence is this: the weather has been very humid in Cambridge in the last few days, and it's turned very, very suddenly hot two nights ago.
 
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patrickBOOTH

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Usually those dry patches are from too much water and pressure when trying to bull the shoe. FWIW, I think you are waiting too long between putting on the reno and buffing. I've found if I let it sit too long it becomes very, very, very hard to get a shine. I think you only ought to wait a couple of minutes between application and buffing, not a whole day. Also, I feel that reno, plus cream polish, plus wax is overkill.
 

David Copeland

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every five wearings I do this: . I agree with Patrick - in having a shorter drying period between the steps. If you wish, I can post one of the more popular web links where the steps are provided and the length of time is noted.

Quote: Aside from Renovateur - have you used the Renomat in the 5-step process suggested by some every 12 months? (It helps to remove the old build-up more effectively)

And are you using the regular Saphir products or are you using the MDO versions?

Quote: That may be a good clue, especially in what Patrick is suggesting by cutting the dry time down to a few minutes between steps.

All my best,

David
 

TDP

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Usually those dry patches are from too much water and pressure when trying to bull the shoe. FWIW, I think you are waiting too long between putting on the reno and buffing. I've found if I let it sit too long it becomes very, very, very hard to get a shine. I think you only ought to wait a couple of minutes between application and buffing, not a whole day. Also, I feel that reno, plus cream polish, plus wax is overkill.


Ah, thank you for your reply, pB! I guess I will just let the shoes dry and try bulling them again later tonight.

Would you recommend just reno+wax?
 

TDP

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How long is a wearing?  A day?  Or every day for a week?  Do you rotate among your shoes to give them a rest?

Is a wearing consisting of daily use for a week - and your polish routine is once every 5 to 7 days?

I agree with Patrick - in having a shorter drying period between the steps.  If you wish, I can post one of the more popular web links where the steps are provided and the length of time is noted.

That may be a good clue, especially in what Patrick is suggesting by cutting the dry time down to a few minutes between steps.

All my best,

David


Thank you for the kind reply, David. I do rotate among my shoes, yes, so to wear the same pair five times would take a month or thereabouts. I will try to do everything in a shorter cycle, and use less water and pressure tonight. I can't believe I hadn't made the mistake of too much water and pressure until now, but it sounds likes a reasonable explanation :).
 

g-banger

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hey All - love the thread, its been really good reading through and learning about shoe care.

I have got a question, I've just picked up some factory second AE Park Avenues in my size on the bay but they have a scratch on the front. Can i take this to a cobbler to fix?

700
 

JDMills

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That is some pretty horrible damage, i dont know what a cobbler can do, maybe fill it and dye it? Is it a scratch , ie a good polish can cover it or is it like cut like theres a clear gap between the pieces.
 

guasc1

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Good evening gentlemen,
Does someone have any information on how to repair patent leather?
There has to be a way...
Thank you,
Max
 

ScottyBoy920

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I just picked up a pair of AE Burgundy Patriots (burgundy calf) off ebay and now that I see them in person, it looks like I need to give them some tender loving care. The color looks to be dull, dark, and not right. What would be the best way to restore them?

I have AE conditioner cleaner (which i already rubbed all over), should I go with colored polish or colored cream to add more color to the leather? Should I even bother using natural carnuba?



Before Conditioner Cleaner



After Conditioner Cleaner


Any advice for reducing the creases?

thank you
 

benhour

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hey All - love the thread, its been really good reading through and learning about shoe care.

I have got a question, I've just picked up some factory second AE Park Avenues in my size on the bay but they have a scratch on the front. Can i take this to a cobbler to fix?

i dont think this is just a scratch!! it looks like a tear to me,some kinf of hole!! if this isnt through the toe cap you can use a fealer( all brands of shoe polish has one) and then go for a mirror shine to both toes so no one can see it!!
satisfied.gif
i dont think a gobbler can do something more than that!


ScottyBoy920

i would use renomat to clean all the old polish!!(the marks looks like water marks traped on the old polish)!! then use the conditioner and finally take from allen edmonds( for you to be easier) or some other brand the exact color shoe polish(prefer cream not paste) and and give it a shine!! it ll ''heal'' the creases to some point too!!it is a way to make crease disappear but its quite dificult if you havent done it again

guasc
what is the exact ploblem you want to fix on the patent leather? i think Mr Ron has already answered that in a post in the 5-6 last pages here ;)

TDP
Totally agree with Patric on that!! i usually wait about 3-5 minutes most of the time, the time i need to apply it on the other shoe before start buffing

hope i helped Gent's
 

ScottyBoy920

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i dont think this is just a scratch!! it looks like a tear to me,some kinf of hole!! if this isnt through the toe cap you can use a fealer( all brands of shoe polish has one) and then go for a mirror shine to both toes so no one can see it!!
satisfied.gif
i dont think a gobbler can do something more than that!


ScottyBoy920

i would use renomat to clean all the old polish!!(the marks looks like water marks traped on the old polish)!! then use the conditioner and finally take from allen edmonds( for you to be easier) or some other brand the exact color shoe polish(prefer cream not paste) and and give it a shine!! it ll ''heal'' the creases to some point too!!it is a way to make crease disappear but its quite dificult if you havent done it again

guasc
what is the exact ploblem you want to fix on the patent leather? i think Mr Ron has already answered that in a post in the 5-6 last pages here ;)

TDP
Totally agree with Patric on that!! i usually wait about 3-5 minutes most of the time, the time i need to apply it on the other shoe before start buffing

hope i helped Gent's

Thanks for the advice. Can a cobbler work the creases?
 

benhour

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Creases are part of te charm of wearing your shoes.
i ll agree with chogall at that 100%!! you can make them go off but after 2 wears they ll be back(like terminator hahaha) i use this process only when someone have never put shoetrees in his shoes!! according to the picture they are in really good shape no need to do that!! if i remember corectly i have posted the process here in the past!
 

ScottyBoy920

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No, you are not mistaken. Nick (with B Nelson Shoes) spoke with me on the phone several weeks ago to offer a Saphir Shoe Shine to those in NYC at a cost of $7 per pair. He also said he offers the Saphir products for sale at his store. In the conversation I mentioned another fast growing company which has opened up shoe shine stands nationwide and offers mail-in mail-back options (which is what Nordstroms offers also) - and in the conversation Nick also echoed he had many international customers who mailed in their shoes to his store. Apparently, based on his recent comments, his primary business is recrafting and not shining. If so, then it is my mistake for mentioning his store as an additional option for others to mail (or drop off) shoes for shining for routine maintenance.

"A Shine and Company" does offer the mail-in mail-out option, and I spoke to one of the owners (Rachel Lemey) about the same time I spoke to Nick. Rachel was very encouraged to make it known they are willing and able to offer this service. Their primary business is shines, and after starting in San Francisco - the have now opened up in many other cities and airports across the country. Mike Rowe did a great news story on their techniques and products.

And as Nick mentioned, he has had domestic staff stop by his store with many shoes to be shined and maintained - but prefers not to tie up his recrafting staff for shines. That is the difference - knowing what your primary business is. In my opinion, offering maintenance and excellent shines could very well mead to recrafting down the line. That is one reason why Nordstroms offers $2.50 shoe shines to customers who would then purchase other products and services in their store. Cross-selling can be good - but it has to be organized and well managed to avoid pollution of the company's chief aim and mission.

Mr. Copeland,

Do you know of any other shoe shine locations in NYC that use Saphir products? I just acquired a pair of Burgundy Calf Patriots that need some extra attention and a top notch shine.

Thanks.
 

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