**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**



patrickBOOTH said:

Lear and company, with a mirror finish do you find that it needs to be stripped and re-applied over time? Or, does it just need to be added too once in a while and the build-up of wax is enough to preserve the integrity of the leather and shine underneath?

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I'm loathe to make firm statements, other than show what's worked for me. In a year from now, my toecaps might fall off, all because I didn't realize the consequences of xyz. Viagra users beware!

I've always applied micro thin layers. Still no cracking after two years. Then I've seen soldiers applying very thick coats, with the expectation that they'll have to strip them later. I guess it all boils down to what your idea of a micro-layer is. Also, some people will stray across the toecap ridge with wax, leading to early onset cracking (EOC). I use Saphir Reno about once a month. I think (but this might be complete bollocks) that it helps the previous layers to re-blend and stave off cracking.

It's people like DWF11 who really know their stuff. They've probably seen it all and know the true consequences. Not me I'm afraid.

Lear



fritzl said:

i got my hand on this pair of shoes:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/181173/operation-paprika/300#post_4934347
they have been sitting in a garage and were covered with dust and mould. any idea how to remove the stains.
i don't mind to change the colour a bit and no i'll not bin them.
many thanks.

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bump

Fritz, this thread might be of assistance. I also think I remember someone creating a thread about removing mold on the outside (maybe Man of Lint?) but I can't find it at the moment. Maybe PM DWF?

DWFII said:

I don't think the shoes are dead or even damaged. If it is mould...and the greenish cast to the dust indicates it might be...I would use a watered down version of chlorine bleach to get rid of it. Or you could mix up some oxalic acid (available in your nearest pharmacy). Either way, I always recondition the leather with Lexol afterwards... Shoemakers have used oxalic acid since time-out-of-mind. Wet vegetable tanned leather often gets stained by careless contact with hammers, knives and other instruments of destruction. Oxalic is used to remove those stains.

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Saphir Reno has darkened my shoes by at least one shade. I have applied it conservatively on a variety of leathers and brands and the result has been the same. The darkening is permanent. Strangely, on the applicator cloth there is polish after gently applying the Reno. Has anyone else had this happen?
Thanks.

Regarding differences between mink oil and Renovateur.

I have used plain old Kiwi mink oil on my shoes for 30 years. Never had any bad consequences. (This is NOT the Kiwi mink oil with added silicone that is formulated for boots - just regular old Kiwi mink oil). I use it in very small amounts, rub in thoroughly and then buff off before applying creme polish followed by wax. If over applied it can indeed leave your shoes oily and resistant to a good shine - but this will only be temporary and is only true if you really soak the leather.

I have recently started experimenting with Saphir Renovateur. It is indeed a very nice product - creamy and easy to apply - and it creates a shine on it's own (it must have some wax in it).

I notice that the Renovateur also picks up more of the existing finish off the shoe. As when using it over polished shoes I get lots more color on the polish rag than I do with mink oil. This indicates to me that it has a bit more of a solvent in it than regular mink oil. I also applied it to a pair of boots that had been previously mink oiled and it darkened the boots quite a bit.

I believe that when comparing the two that the Reno is being absorbed more deeply into the leather than the mink oil was based on my initial tests and the way the leather on the previously mink oiled boots darkened in spots all over the boot immediately upon application. This darkening is usually indicative of moisture and the spottiness disappeared over the course of a day or so, also indicative of moisture being absorbed into the leather. This darkening had not previously occurred on the very same boots when I had mink oiled them just the week before.

That's it - no conclusions or pronouncements - just some observations.



McBindle said:

Saphir Reno has darkened my shoes by at least one shade.  I have applied it conservatively on a variety of leathers and brands and the result has been the same.  The darkening is permanent.  Strangely, on the applicator cloth there is polish after gently applying the Reno.  Has anyone else had this happen? 
Thanks.

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Sort of. When I apply Saphir Reno to leather which is in need of conditioning, it darkens as it would if it absorbed water. When I apply it to leather which is well-conditioned the effect is minimal or non-existent. My conclusion (perhaps incorrect) is that the darker color is the "natural" one and the Saphir is returning the leather to its "correct" state, not darkening it per se.

bourbonbasted said:

Fritz, this thread might be of assistance. I also think I remember someone creating a thread about removing mold on the outside (maybe Man of Lint?) but I can't find it at the moment. Maybe PM DWF?

DWFII said:

I don't think the shoes are dead or even damaged. If it is mould...and the greenish cast to the dust indicates it might be...I would use a watered down version of chlorine bleach to get rid of it. Or you could mix up some oxalic acid (available in your nearest pharmacy). Either way, I always recondition the leather with Lexol afterwards... Shoemakers have used oxalic acid since time-out-of-mind. Wet vegetable tanned leather often gets stained by careless contact with hammers, knives and other instruments of destruction. Oxalic is used to remove those stains.

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many thanks. this very helpful and kind. i'll get through it tomorrow, when i take care of them. cheers.

mcbrown said:

Sort of. When I apply Saphir Reno to leather which is in need of conditioning, it darkens as it would if it absorbed water. When I apply it to leather which is well-conditioned the effect is minimal or non-existent. My conclusion (perhaps incorrect) is that the darker color is the "natural" one and the Saphir is returning the leather to its "correct" state, not darkening it per se.

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mcbrown and Gdot -

Thank you for the replies. Your theories that the darkening is due to the moisture being absorbed and poor prior conditioning of the shoe seem plausible. The first shoes I used the Reno on were not new and the only conditioning they had was from cream polish. The one that darkened the most was a vintage (yet close to new condition) Florsheim Imperial that had obviously been neglected for some time. However, I just received a new pair of AE McCallisters in chestnut and applied Reno as the finish appeared dull and they darkened permanently. But, I suspect that the shoes could have been on a shelf for a while and that they were not well-conditioned or polished during the manufacturing process (I have noticed that the factory finish on AEs is rather poor and serves only as a base for proper finishing).

Gdot your observation that the Reno may contain more solvent is interesting. I suppose that the Reno could react with existing polishes and waxes to create a darker finish. That could explain in part the permanent darkening. While leery of mixing different products perhaps Lexol would not have the darkening effect; however, I would like to hear from other members on their experiences with Lexol and if it permanently darkens the leather.

Hopefully now that the shoes have been conditioned to a baseline level, further polishing with matched color or more conditioning will not darken them.

Thanks again.

does someone mind doing a "play by play" of this video? what is being applied/done at each step? i don't know what is going on and was hoping someone more knowledgeable could help out. thanks so much.



Omar1223 said:

does someone mind doing a "play by play" of this video? what is being applied/done at each step? i don't know what is going on and was hoping someone more knowledgeable could help out. thanks so much.

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0:00 - 0:25 Removing laces, Brushing to remove dirt and dust. 0:25 - 0:45 Applying conditioner. 0:45 - 1:10 Shoe cream? Or maybe a form of applying pigment. 1:10 - 1:25 Second Brushing, preparing the surface for wax. 1:25- 1:40 Quick buffing to remove extra cream/pigment. Note the excess collected by the cloth when he removes it. 1:40 - 2:20 Application of wax. He seems to be using coloured and neutral wax. He intermittently dabs water onto the cloth. The water dispenser is pictured at 2:20. 2:20 - 2:32 Brushing again, this shoe won't even need to visit a dentist. 2:32 - 2:55 More water, more buffing. 2:55 - 3:15 終

naka thanks a lot i appreciate it.



Omar1223 said:

naka thanks a lot i appreciate it.

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No worries

Thank you for this thread. I have spent hours reading it, and found many pieces of good advice. I would also like more opinions on this question:

SpooPoker said:

Im sure this has been covered, but in light of the new PSA I posted in the cool shoes thread for the cheap Saphir, can someone post a step by step on how to apply it properly? The three products I have in rotation will be :
1. Saphir Renovateur (not on the PSA)
2. Saphir Pate de Luxe
3. Saphir Creme
I have never been the best polisher, I usually pay the shine guys to do it. But if you had these 3 products at your disposal, what would be the steps you would take? Thanks in advance dudes.

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I am more interested in caring for the leather than making a mirror. How often do you polish? How often do you use cream, wax and renovateur? Do you use both cream and renovateur? Thank you.

SHS

I've always been pretty lazy about polishing. today I wiped down with a damp cloth, applied Venetian, brushed hard, applied kiwi wax, brushed hard. I did the right shoe of each pair

PTB's show a ton of improvement (and shine), boots much smoother and shinier as well, loafers a bit shinier but scuffs are gone. how did I do?



makewayhomer said:

I've always been pretty lazy about polishing. today I wiped down with a damp cloth, applied Venetian, brushed hard, applied kiwi wax, brushed hard. I did the right shoe of each pair
PTB's show a ton of improvement (and shine), boots much smoother and shinier as well, loafers a bit shinier but scuffs are gone. how did I do?

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They are much improved! Keep up the good work.

Get some shoe trees - stat and leave them in when you polish.