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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** - Page 294

post #4396 of 7803
Just jumping in this heel slip conversation and I am not a cobbler, maker, or any pro in shoe making, but I think the counter (leather or plastic) will provide a shape but I hypothesize that it has minimal influence (not saying it has none) about changes in heel slippage through time. I think the counter is a big factor in the proper fit and shape that will always influence heel slippage. My expeirence has been the 337 has a wider/rounder opening around the Achilles compared to my better (heel) fitting shoes such as EG's 82/888. The latter has a narrower curve (closer to a "V" than "U") and the heelis taller compared to the former. To me, the shape of the heel, hence the last (again, it seems to come down to this), will greatly influence fit, especially the heels, which gets less attention compared to the other end of the last.

I think less heel slip after prolonged wear has more to do with the flex of the outsole, primarily around the ball area. Once the leather softens, then the heel bends more easily, and thus less heel slip. This is my guess why double leather soles may create more heel slippage than single leather.

Just my thoughts this early morning.
post #4397 of 7803

I have a bit of problem shape in my heels (narrow and angular) and shoes where the heel counter doesn't adjust at all get painful with a lot of wear in a single day. Edward Green uses leather heel stiffeners, (plastic in the toe anyway) and my Dovers are the most comfortable shoes I have at the moment because I broke them in to the shape of my feet.

 

The stiffness of the sole contributes to slipping a lot. When it softens up with wear, there should be no slippage left. Oak bark soles, as in the Handgrades, tend to take a lot more wear for them to soften up, but they also last a lot longer.

post #4398 of 7803
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post

Just jumping in this heel slip conversation and I am not a cobbler, maker, or any pro in shoe making, but I think the counter (leather or plastic) will provide a shape but I hypothesize that it has minimal influence (not saying it has none) about changes in heel slippage through time. I think the counter is a big factor in the proper fit and shape that will always influence heel slippage. My expeirence has been the 337 has a wider/rounder opening around the Achilles compared to my better (heel) fitting shoes such as EG's 82/888. The latter has a narrower curve (closer to a "V" than "U") and the heelis taller compared to the former. To me, the shape of the heel, hence the last (again, it seems to come down to this), will greatly influence fit, especially the heels, which gets less attention compared to the other end of the last.

I have the exact same experience. Of the C&J shoes I have owned or tried on, most all of them suffer from a low and wide heel area which increases heel slippage. My best-fitting C&J are my Connaughts (236 last), but after 3 years of hard wear they still have som heel slippage in them, countered only by the supreme fit over the forefoot. Carmina Simpson has the same issue. Heel-fit-wise, my Loake Aldwychs are much better by comparison, comparable to my EG Dovers.
post #4399 of 7803

Have the same problems with heel slippage.

I found, in a recent visit to C&J Jermyn Street, that the Connought's fit with a thin inlay (I bought them), 325 fit okay with no inlay, and the 341 fit perfect ootb without the heel movement when walking. 

 

How those last's translate into boot lasts I don't know. Perhaps someone can step in? Cus' you know.. winter is coming.

post #4400 of 7803

I've been reading a lot of older post and topics the last few days and I'm surprised to read how many people are not really comfortable in their (in most cases) (very) expensive shoes. I even read a blogpost of the shoe snob in which he says that most of his shoes are not really comfortable all day (the reason for this are his weird shaped feet, he says) . And he is an expert in fit (i presume).

 

Maybe I have to praise myself lucky that my Edgware's are relatively comfortable all things considered, apart from the heel slippage.

 

@ Quantimil: maybe I should try Edward Green. But they are so damn expensive.

post #4401 of 7803
Some would say not to expect a bespoke glove fit on a RTW shoe.

I will admit that based on the width of my feet, it is not uncommon to have a slight heel slip on shoes. It is definitely almost non exsistant on my GGs though. They also do a great job on fit for a RTW shoe...
post #4402 of 7803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuur View Post

I've been reading a lot of older post and topics the last few days and I'm surprised to read how many people are not really comfortable in their (in most cases) (very) expensive shoes. I even read a blogpost of the shoe snob in which he says that most of his shoes are not really comfortable all day (the reason for this are his weird shaped feet, he says) . And he is an expert in fit (i presume).

Classical leather shoes will never be as comfortable as, say, Nike Air runners. There aren't any natural materials that can give that level of cushioning. Moreover, the uppers of sneakers and runners are often padded which creates the illusion of a good fit, while in reality you're sticking your foot into a generically-shaped cushion. Classical shoes by contrast offer little or no padding as they are supposed to closely match the shape of the foot. The fact that almost everyone relies upon runners as their daily shoes of course means that feasibility of offering classical shoes in different lasts and widths remains low even in larger cities. I believe that most people would be able to achieve a good fit given enough variety in widths and sizes (Church's famously used to offer RTW shoes in 7 widths), but this is not economically viable in today's market. That said, buying well-fitting shoes takes some experience, as with almost everything else. The first time you buy a suit, you are less likely to get a proper fit compared to when you get your fifth suit, and so on. Further to this point, shoe fit is very much a question of personal taste; some people prefer their shoes on the loose side, whereas I like them to be quite snug. Thus, my first two pairs of good shoes are slightly too roomy.
post #4403 of 7803
Quote:
Originally Posted by riesenschnauser View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuur View Post

I've been reading a lot of older post and topics the last few days and I'm surprised to read how many people are not really comfortable in their (in most cases) (very) expensive shoes. I even read a blogpost of the shoe snob in which he says that most of his shoes are not really comfortable all day (the reason for this are his weird shaped feet, he says) . And he is an expert in fit (i presume).

Classical leather shoes will never be as comfortable as, say, Nike Air runners. There aren't any natural materials that can give that level of cushioning. Moreover, the uppers of sneakers and runners are often padded which creates the illusion of a good fit, while in reality you're sticking your foot into a generically-shaped cushion. Classical shoes by contrast offer little or no padding as they are supposed to closely match the shape of the foot. The fact that almost everyone relies upon runners as their daily shoes of course means that feasibility of offering classical shoes in different lasts and widths remains low even in larger cities. I believe that most people would be able to achieve a good fit given enough variety in widths and sizes (Church's famously used to offer RTW shoes in 7 widths), but this is not economically viable in today's market. That said, buying well-fitting shoes takes some experience, as with almost everything else. The first time you buy a suit, you are less likely to get a proper fit compared to when you get your fifth suit, and so on. Further to this point, shoe fit is very much a question of personal taste; some people prefer their shoes on the loose side, whereas I like them to be quite snug. Thus, my first two pairs of good shoes are slightly too roomy.

well said, mate.
post #4404 of 7803

Can anyone identify these C&J shoes (or if they are even genuine C&J)??

 

 

 

 

 

post #4405 of 7803
Bizarre
post #4406 of 7803
yup
post #4407 of 7803

This eBay listing has a pair of loafers with identical markings... the country of manufacture is listed as South Africa. (???)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROCKETT-JONES-The-Ultimate-Black-Leather-Loafer-mens-size-US-9-/271226523201?pt=US_Men_s_Shoes&hash=item3f265c4e41

 

Someone should contact C&J and ask what these are. In any case, they look old, 1970's to 80's.

post #4408 of 7803
This is a pair of Crockett & Jones Audleys that I returned to the factory in Northampton for refurbishment.

The first photo shows the neglected state they were in. The heels were worn right down at the back, and the soles had been worn all the way through to the cork.

The other photos show the shoes after they came back. So what had C&J done?

1. Replaced the cork, welt, soles and heels on the original last. The soles and heels look magnificent - i'm reluctant to walk around in them now!

2. New insoles

4. New laces.

5. Thorough clean, with the patina looking really nice.

The total cost was $250, including shipping from Australia to the UK and back. If you consider that a quality shoe repairer here in Melbourne would probably charge $100 for a full set of soles and heels, this looks like pretty good value. I wouldn't do this for any old shoe, but would certainly consider the exercise for another high-end pair of shoes. in future.










post #4409 of 7803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aidan K View Post

Can anyone identify these C&J shoes (or if they are even genuine C&J)??

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like rubbish.

post #4410 of 7803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiddler View Post

Looks like rubbish.

 

Indeed.

 

A thread over at AAAC from 2005 suggests C&J licensed its name to a South African company in the 70s to raise money, which is where this line comes from. Thanks for the tip about SA!

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