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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...) - Page 127

post #1891 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmivtr View Post

clock, if your Tetbury made of nubuck (the leather Gdot described)?

I checked the label on the box and yes, it says 'Antique Nubuck'. Is it really 'corrected grain'? Why would C&J want to use corrected grain on their shoes? Perhaps I'm naive in dress shoes, but all this while I was taught corrected grain was found in cheaper brands.
post #1892 of 12785
and yes the leather on my Tetbury is thicker than the one on my Talbot, Westbourne, Alex.

I was caught with a shock when learning my Tetbury was made of corrected grain or corrected leather. nonetheless, I managed to put myself together back when looking at and wearing them (as I write this reply). I know they are well made shoes. anyway they are C&J.
post #1893 of 12785
Maybe corrected is the wrong way to describe it. The leather is not like the high shine AKA binder type leather typically associated with corrected. Also, C&J is a quality brand and I am confident that they do not treat the leather to hide cosmetic flaws but instead, to have a different look.

I mean, you could argue that pebble grain is a way to treat the leather but we dont associate this with poor quality.
Edited by SuitedDx - 7/27/12 at 1:10pm
post #1894 of 12785
"Corrected Grain" does not equate to poor quality. Many super premium leathers are 'corrected grain' such as pin grain, hatch grain, pebble grain, etc. etc. all of those are embossed and thus are 'corrected'.

The problem is that the term 'corrected grain' simply has too wide a meaning to be a quantifiable determinate of quality.

Some terms that might be more useful as terms indicating generally lower quality leather would be 'split grain' or 'top grain' as these indicate a partial thickness of skin.
post #1895 of 12785
Thank you guys for explaining. My definition was narrow.
post #1896 of 12785
Btw, anybody knows which online retailer still stocks and sells the Tavistock the one that is austerity brogue? I understand that C&J discontinued production of the Tavistock quite some time ago, but who knows I may have luck buying them online.

The other option I have that is within my limited budget is Cheaney Imperial Balmoral, but it would require me to undergo a paradigm shift from C&J 348, 337 shape to more rounded toe.
post #1897 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by clock View Post

Btw, anybody knows which online retailer still stocks and sells the Tavistock the one that is austerity brogue? I understand that C&J discontinued production of the Tavistock quite some time ago, but who knows I may have luck buying them online.
The other option I have that is within my limited budget is Cheaney Imperial Balmoral, but it would require me to undergo a paradigm shift from C&J 348, 337 shape to more rounded toe.

There has been some discussion of doing a special order austerity brogue through A Fine Pair of Shoes. It would be the Alfred Sargent Blake (from the handgrade line) done to benchgrade standards.



I am a bit cash poor at the moment, otherwise I would organize the 6 orders needed to get it done. Personal preference would be for dark oak color and we would probably have a choice of lasts, including some of the handgrade lasts like 48.
post #1898 of 12785
i have had some recent experience with "suede". i spend a lot of time in london recently at various C&J shops looking for a Chiltern that didn't look, what i thought was shop worn, i was later told they were split grain. the suede on one of the other chukkas with leather bottoms was described as "polo suede" it looked more consistent, less nappy and richer in color.
post #1899 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by scurvyfreedman View Post


There has been some discussion of doing a special order austerity brogue through A Fine Pair of Shoes. It would be the Alfred Sargent Blake (from the handgrade line) done to benchgrade standards.
1000
I am a bit cash poor at the moment, otherwise I would organize the 6 orders needed to get it done. Personal preference would be for dark oak color and we would probably have a choice of lasts, including some of the handgrade lasts like 48.

 

Leffot has this AS Blake to handgrade on sale right now in 9.5E in Mahogany on the 48.

post #1900 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by clock View Post


How about the dark brown suede Tetbury? I'm not a style expert, but IMO a pair of dark brown suede boots match blue jeans very well.
FYI, I wear my black calf Tetbury in office attire to work, and I never feel uncomfortable about it. But one thing you must know is that the calf leather on the Tetbury is different from the calf leather used in other C&J shoes. I never asked C&J to know more about the calf they use on the Tetbury, but at least from my rough eyes the calf on Tetbury looks a tad less 'dress shoe' and the creases are more prominent on the Tetbury calf.

 

I think that the Tetbury in black calf looks beautiful, and that one could swing the extra sleek and pointy last with more formal wear.  But the dark brown suede version doesn't look so good up close (when actually paired up with jeans).  I ended up selling the ones I ordered via Edwards of Manchester, when I learned of the Tetbury's newer, unlined, cousin dubbed the 'Milton'.  The polo suede, milk chocolate, hue is quite a bit lighter than the Tetbury's dark brown suede, and works really great with denim, incidentally.  And the very firm toebox ends up giving you a lot more support than the Alden, flexwelt, chukkas popular around many quarters here:

 

http://www.crockettandjones.com/Product/Milton-Polo

post #1901 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by ncdobson View Post

Leffot has this AS Blake to handgrade on sale right now in 9.5E in Mahogany on the 48.

Wow, that's an incredible price. If it were only 7.5UK I'd blow through my budget and get it.
post #1902 of 12785
I consider myself a US9.5D - TTS.

I have the connaught on the 236 last, UK8.5E. I'm giving some thought to the shell cordovan henley loafer, which is on the 325 last. Should I size down to UK8E? I like loafers to fit snug. I hate heel slippage. For frame of reference, with the Alden shell LHS (Van last) I sized down to a US9C.

Any thoughts? Anyone have the connaught and the shell henley? Thanks in advance.
post #1903 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenfoldtieguy View Post

I consider myself a US9.5D - TTS.

I have the connaught on the 236 last, UK8.5E. I'm giving some thought to the shell cordovan henley loafer, which is on the 325 last. Should I size down to UK8E? I like loafers to fit snug. I hate heel slippage. For frame of reference, with the Alden shell LHS (Van last) I sized down to a US9C.

Any thoughts? Anyone have the connaught and the shell henley? Thanks in advance.

How do you find your Connaught, is it snug fit? I don't have the 236 and 325 in my current collection, but from the pictures on C&J website the 236 looks more forgiving and roomier in the toe and looks rounder too than the 325. In other words, if your Connaught already gives snug fit, sizing down any further on the 325 may not be advisable.

I learnt this hard way when I ordered my Sydney loafers, which are rounder than my 348s for example my Merton loafers. While the Merton gave me nice snug fit (I also hate heel slippage in loafers), getting the Sydney in the same size didn't do any good because the Sydney had more room in the toe for my feet which caused my feet to 'slide' to the front, hence causing the heel to be loose as I walked. Now I have to use one of those tongue pad to ensure grip and no slide. How I wish I sized down by an half when ordering the Sydney...
post #1904 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by clock View Post

How do you find your Connaught, is it snug fit? I don't have the 236 and 325 in my current collection, but from the pictures on C&J website the 236 looks more forgiving and roomier in the toe and looks rounder too than the 325. In other words, if your Connaught already gives snug fit, sizing down any further on the 325 may not be advisable.
I learnt this hard way when I ordered my Sydney loafers, which are rounder than my 348s for example my Merton loafers. While the Merton gave me nice snug fit (I also hate heel slippage in loafers), getting the Sydney in the same size didn't do any good because the Sydney had more room in the toe for my feet which caused my feet to 'slide' to the front, hence causing the heel to be loose as I walked. Now I have to use one of those tongue pad to ensure grip and no slide. How I wish I sized down by an half when ordering the Sydney...

Thanks for the feedback.
post #1905 of 12785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wedin View Post

Winter is coming.... Best to prepare.

C&J Islay in dark brown.

700

Awesome this. 

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