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** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...) - Page 747

post #11191 of 13203
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post #11192 of 13203

Beautiful @Watchman1 

post #11193 of 13203
yep nod[1].gif
post #11194 of 13203
Speaking of Pembrokes... I'm debating on the dark brown and tan but a quick Google search brings back a wide range of colors for each especially the tan which ranges from an average looking light tan to a beautiful light brown... Can anyone comment on the actual color of the current offerings? Is the wide variation caused by previous leather offerings? I understand the cordovan RL marlow and cordovan cardigan 4 only muddy the water in a Google search
post #11195 of 13203
Does anyone have any experience or comments on the Cheviot in burgandy cordovan? I have been fancying a pair of Alden 975 longwings in colour 8 but the Cheviot seems to be the C&J equivalent on a 325 last. As there is just something about C&J shoes I am leaning towards them but have not see them in the flesh (or shell as it were) and there is scant info online.
post #11196 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeknal View Post

Speaking of Pembrokes... I'm debating on the dark brown and tan but a quick Google search brings back a wide range of colors for each especially the tan which ranges from an average looking light tan to a beautiful light brown... Can anyone comment on the actual color of the current offerings? Is the wide variation caused by previous leather offerings? I understand the cordovan RL marlow and cordovan cardigan 4 only muddy the water in a Google search

I just so happened to take this picture yesterday

I'd say actual color is lighter than pictured here for all the variants
post #11197 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by Webbo View Post

Does anyone have any experience or comments on the Cheviot in burgandy cordovan? I have been fancying a pair of Alden 975 longwings in colour 8 but the Cheviot seems to be the C&J equivalent on a 325 last. As there is just something about C&J shoes I am leaning towards them but have not see them in the flesh (or shell as it were) and there is scant info online.

I also saw this yesterday in the NYC store. Certainly a nice longwings, sleeker than the Alden. Color similar to traditional #8, not Alden eggplant
post #11198 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by mammothnguyen View Post
 

@EnglishShoes I was actually going for a wholecut, as I love its simple lines, or as I tend to call it - understated elegance. The pain actually does not come until after a straight few hours of walking, so a short half-hour commute would be perfectly fine for me. In fact, I'm wearing the Weymouth as I am typing this.

 

The Weymouth last is 337, and it seems to be one of the most elegant lasts that they have (according to the diggings that I did).

 

@NewStart, I hope I won't be letting it go, since I don't want to let go of something so beautiful after such a brief acquaintance.

 

J. Fitzpatrick from the Shoe Snob actually said in his blog about shoe break-in, saying that it's normal at this early stage. And I hope he is correct.

 

From the look of it, I might be toughing it out for the full month. And since I'm taking my first steps in appreciating quality English shoes, a few hard lessons would help along the way (and possibly help in hardening my feet too :)

 

I have a super wide and flat feet so I can relate to your problem.  To get around I buy to fit the width (which means a lot of empty space at the front but who cares).

 

Even so Edgware and Drummond (both 348 lasts) gave me trouble.  Pressure on the little toe issue was solved with a shoe stretcher (don't get the plastic toy, get a two way wooden one) and the pinching on the big toe eventually went away after a couple of months (try using the padding you can get from any chemist - I used Scholl pressure point foam padding)

 

I also find C&J a little wide on the heel.  Try a thin tongue pad rather than tying your laces too tight.  In any case, if your throat is wide open the shoes may be too small for you (or you need F fitting for your feet)

post #11199 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by makewayhomer View Post

I also saw this yesterday in the NYC store. Certainly a nice longwings, sleeker than the Alden. Color similar to traditional #8, not Alden eggplant

Thanks, would it be fair to say the Cheviot is the longwing Pembroke?
post #11200 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by Webbo View Post

Thanks, would it be fair to say the Cheviot is the longwing Pembroke?

Semantics, but I wouldn't say that. I don't think the Cheviot needs a description other than "longwing on the 325"
post #11201 of 13203
I posted on another thread but wanted all to know who are interested that C&J are raising prices across the board on Tuesday, March 1, 2016. I just purchased a pair from a shop in Northampton that many of us have used and she advised of the price increase.

So if interested in buying new, don't wait!
post #11202 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by mammothnguyen View Post
 

 

I do have some shoe trees, I might have made the mistake of getting C&J shoe trees, although they have done its job well. 

 

The pinky toe issue has largely disappear, and the culprit seems to be myself, as I often tied my oxford loosely. I'm still new to wearing snug shoes, so that required some adjustments. Hopefully with further wear, the issue should disappear.

 

This next bit is a question about C&J lasts and any alternatives. In my early shoe days, I fell in love with Bally (mostly because it was the first pair of "nice" shoes that I encountered). But I then made the mistake of buying a pair of glue-soled Bally derby, and going a size (or two) too big. I'm intending to let it go very soon, but then I came to a realisation that I have no black lace-up shoes. After doing some research, I arrived at 4 options: the Hallam/Alex on 348 last, the Connaught on 236 last, and the Audley on 337 last. 

 

I have had some experience with the 348 last, being the initial choice for my first C&J pair before I settled for the Weymouth. Hence I would like to ask about the 236 last. How does it compare to the 348 and 337. I'm not particularly fussed about look, but about fit. It seems that my foot is more happy with a straight toe box, not a pointy one, so I'm currently levitating towards the 236. But I am open to your opinions.

 

I've been looking upmarket too, and the most agreeable option (both to my eyes and my wallet) is the Edward Green Chelsea on 82 last. How does it compare to the 3 C&J lasts?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

The 236 is a conservative last with a very rounded toe. It is the most similar to the Edward Green 82 last. 

337 and 348 are very similar with the 337 having a more rounded toe versus a chiseled toe on the 348.  

We have a Crockett and Jones Hallam on the 348 and an Edward Green Chelsea on the 82 in the shot below. Notice how the Hallam in 9 UK is slightly longer than the Chelsea on 9.5 UK. The instep and room in the toe box are similar between the 348 and 82 but we do find the 82 last to be roomier across the vamp in general. 

 

 

 

 

post #11203 of 13203

Anyone have an idea where I might be able to find Tan Grain Cheviots in sz 6.5E? I found a couple stockists however one of them didn't have my size and the other was based in Japan. I'd prefer to buy from the UK with the exchange rates the way they are right now. Cheers. 

post #11204 of 13203
Quote:
Originally Posted by mammothnguyen View Post
 

 

I have had some experience with the 348 last, being the initial choice for my first C&J pair before I settled for the Weymouth. Hence I would like to ask about the 236 last. How does it compare to the 348 and 337. I'm not particularly fussed about look, but about fit. It seems that my foot is more happy with a straight toe box, not a pointy one, so I'm currently levitating towards the 236. But I am open to your opinions.

 

I've been looking upmarket too, and the most agreeable option (both to my eyes and my wallet) is the Edward Green Chelsea on 82 last. How does it compare to the 3 C&J lasts?

 

 

Lfoot explained most of it.

 

236: most "traditional", the English round toe and short length by modern standards.  Benchgrade, so the leather is not as good as for the 337.

 

348: elongated toebox, chiselled toe.  I had to go for an F-width for my Hallam because of little-toe cramping.  Quite a lot of creasing, leather quality is so-so (relative to price).

 

337: I find this last very comfortable.  I have Audley and Belgrave, and I find that these strike a great balance between comfort, style, and leather quality.  For me, there is hardly any creasing in the toebox.

 

Highly recommend trying the Audleys - if they work for you, then you have many other lovely shoes on that last available for you as well.

 

EG82 is also very nice, but I personally can't justify an additional 50% increase for a Black Cap Toe Oxford, however yvmv.

post #11205 of 13203

How do I know whether a specific last is handgrade or benchgrade? I also cannot seem to grasp the major differences between the two..

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