Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread (reviews, quality, etc...)

jssdc · Sunday at 7:09 PM

Giev said:
Apart from the last is there any major difference with C&J main lines (material, etc) ? the price difference is significant

Do you mean between resellers like RL or do you mean between different major C&J lines? My assumption is that what they sell to their retailer channels is on spec. But I can definitively say that there is a meaningful quality difference between C&J mainline and handgrade. The leather quality on my HG shoes is equivalent to my G&Gs, even though the finishing is not. For mainline it’s not remotely close. I’m not a fan of mainline C&J, absent boots which are different, but i continue to feel that HG are a good buy.

Duke Santos · 2024-04-22T07:42:21-0700

YellowHandUp said:
That’s helpful. I’m looking at the Maddox loafers in dark brown suede. C&J last 325 is good for me. Anyone any ideas what last the Maddox is?

Would like to know that too. I guess I could just ask Sarah, but if someone here knows, I won't have to bother her.

I have Bostons in dark brown country calf, and the 314 is an absolutely perfect loafer last for me.

shoefan57 · 2024-04-22T07:57:30-0700

jssdc said:
Do you mean between resellers like RL or do you mean between different major C&J lines? My assumption is that what they sell to their retailer channels is on spec. But I can definitively say that there is a meaningful quality difference between C&J mainline and handgrade. The leather quality on my HG shoes is equivalent to my G&Gs, even though the finishing is not. For mainline it’s not remotely close. I’m not a fan of mainline C&J, absent boots which are different, but i continue to feel that HG are a good buy.

I agree so it’s a pity that C&J have taken a “slash and burn” approach to the HG range over the last two years

Jon 1981 · 2024-04-22T08:02:15-0700

What do you mean by 'slash and burn'?

YellowHandUp · 2024-04-22T09:08:44-0700

Duke Santos said:
Would like to know that too. I guess I could just ask Sarah, but if someone here knows, I won't have to bother her.

I have Bostons in dark brown country calf, and the 314 is an absolutely perfect loafer last for me.

She said if 325 works for me, then go with Cavendish, or try going up 1/2 a size in the Maddox because Maddox has a tighter toe box. So my guess is it’s 314. Does look it. She replies asap with really helpful insights on fitting etc.

shoefan57 · 2024-04-22T11:02:02-0700

Jon 1981 said:
What do you mean by 'slash and burn'?

A bit strong I admit but what I mean is they have reduced the range by quite a few models and colours of models and reduced the size range - most on the website now only go up to size 11. Plus for last three years only one or even no new models in the HG range. It feels like they are not as committed to the HG range as they have been in the past. In the distant past the range was small but about 15 years ago the range expanded and beautiful models were brought out.
It may well be that the customer base for the HG range has shrunk and so it makes business sense to shrink the range.

threeleggeddog · 2024-04-22T15:17:55-0700

I’m pretty new to c&j (basically only had one overly long pair in the 360 last). I am interested in a pair in the 341 last but am worried that they might be too narrow for my feet. I tend to fit in a wider fit shoe, but not necessarily a shoe that’s uniformly wide.

the Alden Barrie on 10.5 b/d fits me perfectly with dress socks. The van in 10.5 fits me a bit too snug. Viberg 2030 10e is a bit too snug - 10ee fits ok, but I can fit 2040e.

On Carmina, the 10 rain is a bit too narrow. A 10 Detroit fits but is a tad but too much heel slip.

Was going to try a 341 in a 10uk. Do you think it could work?

mxgreen · 2024-04-22T17:48:33-0700

threeleggeddog said:
Was going to try a 341 in a 10uk. Do you think it could work?

Yes.

Norwester · 2024-04-22T18:06:27-0700

threeleggeddog said:
I’m pretty new to c&j (basically only had one overly long pair in the 360 last). I am interested in a pair in the 341 last but am worried that they might be too narrow for my feet. I tend to fit in a wider fit shoe, but not necessarily a shoe that’s uniformly wide.

the Alden Barrie on 10.5 b/d fits me perfectly with dress socks. The van in 10.5 fits me a bit too snug. Viberg 2030 10e is a bit too snug - 10ee fits ok, but I can fit 2040e.

On Carmina, the 10 rain is a bit too narrow. A 10 Detroit fits but is a tad but too much heel slip.

Was going to try a 341 in a 10uk. Do you think it could work?

You might find 10e UK on the snug side in the 341 last. I wear padded socks with Barrie 11b/d (thick padded with boots and moderately padded with shoes). Van 11b/d fits me fine with dress wool socks. I have one pair of C&J in 341 from Peal & Co; they are marked 11.5 D in US so presumably 10.5e UK, and they are comfortably snug, but no room to spare. In short: they are even a little more snug than a half-size up in Van. It sounds like you might be better in 10f or 10g in 341, if that's an option.

Menninki · 2024-04-23T11:58:34-0700

Menninki said:
Btw, does anyone know the background of the apron fronted shoes? Is there a design reason behind or is it just the looks?

Did some research on this. It appears that the apron fronted design aimed to add water resistance by lifting the seams higher. In derbies and oxfords the seams usually go all the way to the sole, but with apron they stay higher, except the split-toe seam for which there are some magical seam techniques.

History - The split toe derby - Shoegazing.com

The split toe derby is a model that has been extra popular in recent years. A derby with a so-called apron and then a vertical stitch at the tip of the

shoegazing.com

Guide - Types of apron front and split toe seams - Shoegazing.com

Pie crust stitching. Skin stitching. Raised lake. Reverse skin stitching. Split and lift. Round closing. And so on. The terms surrounding apron stitching

shoegazing.com

lurker33 · 2024-04-23T12:09:40-0700

threeleggeddog said:
I’m pretty new to c&j (basically only had one overly long pair in the 360 last). I am interested in a pair in the 341 last but am worried that they might be too narrow for my feet. I tend to fit in a wider fit shoe, but not necessarily a shoe that’s uniformly wide.

the Alden Barrie on 10.5 b/d fits me perfectly with dress socks. The van in 10.5 fits me a bit too snug. Viberg 2030 10e is a bit too snug - 10ee fits ok, but I can fit 2040e.

On Carmina, the 10 rain is a bit too narrow. A 10 Detroit fits but is a tad but too much heel slip.

Was going to try a 341 in a 10uk. Do you think it could work?

I have an unlined suede blucher in 10.5D on Barrie and wear UK10 on 341 in boots. I find 341 to be quite a bit roomier, even with boot socks and despite the blucher being unlined. Unsure how much different a shoe on 341 would wear.

threeleggeddog · 2024-04-23T12:25:23-0700

lurker33 said:
I have an unlined suede blucher in 10.5D on Barrie and wear UK10 on 341 in boots. I find 341 to be quite a bit roomier, even with boot socks and despite the blucher being unlined. Unsure how much different a shoe on 341 would wear.

Interesting - different feet, different outcomes. I guess as always, I’ll need to just try them out.

PACostag · 2024-04-23T15:00:07-0700

Before adding anything to the official GMTO file, can I gauge interest in two ideas (I personally love to do both pairs):

Model 1:
Crockett & Jones Radnor
Veldt construction
Black Russian Grain
Matching tone stitching/hardware/edge
Fully Lined
Faux toe cap
No leather pull loop
Ridgeway outsole

Model 2:
Crockett & Jones Radnor
Veldt construction
OG Russian Grain (the reddish brown stuff)
Matching tone stitching/hardware/edge
Fully Lined
Faux toe cap
No leather pull loop
Ridgeway outsole

Basic Style:

Faux Toe Cap:

Another idea would be to substitute the "swooping" side panel for a straight-cut seam:

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Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread (reviews, quality, etc...)