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Face Shape and Collar Spread

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Spread is the default collar on SF, often people are admonished for anything else. However, I was taught that the shape of one's face dictates what collar one wears. Do people in the know still adhere to that guideline or is it all spread all the time?
post #2 of 15
I know Flusser makes the argument that face shape should determine collar spread. I used to believe it, if for no other reason than that Flusser said it. But now, after gaining more experience paying attention to these things, I just don't think it's true. Nobody looks good in a point collar. Or better, no one looks better in a point collar than they'd look in a spread collar.
post #3 of 15
I think a point collar looks pretty bad most of the time. I don't have a narrow face, but spread collar still looks significantly better!
post #4 of 15
I have a ginormous noggin and I still like my spread collar shirts better.
post #5 of 15
I think your neck size is more relevant than facial shape. Collar should coordinate with the type of knot you tie as well. All should be in proportion, face, neck, tie knot, lapel, shoulder, that way nothing stands out on its own.
post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Collar should coordinate with the type of knot you tie as well.

I agree to a degree, but prevailing logic in these parts is that it's better to go too small than 2 large. they do 4ih with cutaway around here all the time. I personally tie a nicer half-windsor than 4ih though.
post #7 of 15
A spread collar is the standard collar, anyone can wear it. Point collars and cutaway collars are the ones that are harder to wear for certain face shapes.
post #8 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post
I know Flusser makes the argument that face shape should determine collar spread. I used to believe it, if for no other reason than that Flusser said it. But now, after gaining more experience paying attention to these things, I just don't think it's true. Nobody looks good in a point collar. Or better, no one looks better in a point collar than they'd look in a spread collar.

I agree, nobody looks good on the dated collars.
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
I think your neck size is more relevant than facial shape. Collar should coordinate with the type of knot you tie as well. All should be in proportion, face, neck, tie knot, lapel, shoulder, that way nothing stands out on its own.

+1 This is vital and completely true.
post #10 of 15
Neck size --> collar height.

Head shape + mandible angles = face shape --> collar spread.

Don't forget the whole [tie knot, lapels' gorges, suit collar shape, suit cut, shoes] . . . as Despos wrote.

-M
post #11 of 15
Two elements to neck measures, circumference and length, short or long neck.
Base collar height on neck length balance the size of the collar leaf with neck circumference
post #12 of 15
Spread collar (full cutaway, sometimes) all the way.
post #13 of 15
I wear spread and cutaway collars because I have really high insteps. Makes perfect sense, imho.
post #14 of 15
I have a triangular chin, so the spread collar looks better on me. But the weird thing is, that 's also going to vary over time, as you put on or lose more weight in the face.
post #15 of 15
I had this conversation with Will Field (Fields English Custom Tailors; Georgetown) just a couple of weeks ago when he measured me for my bespoke shirts. Asked him what collar he recommended given my face/neck. He said a slightly raised collar given my slightly longer neck and a somewhat wide point collar but definitely not a spread. Asked him why not a spread and he replied that my narrow face would not look harmoneous with a spread collar and given my preference for four-in-hand knots, he didn't think that would work well either.

I was a bit surprised to hear an argument in direct contast with those offered by the Flusser (he urges spread collars on the narrow-faced and point collars on the fat-faced) in order to balance the head.

Regardless, I went with Will's advice. Cary Grant went with point collars, so I am skeptical about sweeping claims about their inferiority relative to spreads.
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