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spoon tailor -hong kong bespoke operation in San Francisco - Page 14

post #196 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by k4lnamja View Post


That is a great jacket and look. Deets?

COuldn't agree more about Thomaspaine's issue. He already has wide shoulders so the addition of a narrow lapel and pads does not make any sense. Honestly, I hate narrow lapels but whatever floats one's boat. The chest does need to be taken in a little so I'm surprised Andreas didn't. He's a well known and highly skilled tailor so that seems odd.

 

I didn't ask Andreas to alter it, I only asked him what was causing the canvas rippling. 

post #197 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by katabatic View Post

It's an image from http://thenordicfit.blogspot.fi/ (specifically, http://thenordicfit.blogspot.fi/2012/12/another-light-brown-and-blue.html). Great blog. 

I'm honored, thank you. The jacket in question is an unstructured Paoloni jacket made out of wool flannel.

If the setting is casual and the person in question has wider or more athletic shoulders, I would always go for a very lightly padded or totally unstructured shoulder myself. The round shoulder line flatters this kind of physique more than anything else. Also pretty much what otheme above said.
post #198 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uunottaja View Post

I'm honored, thank you. The jacket in question is an unstructured Paoloni jacket made out of wool flannel.

If the setting is casual and the person in question has wider or more athletic shoulders, I would always go for a very lightly padded or totally unstructured shoulder myself. The round shoulder line flatters this kind of physique more than anything else. Also pretty much what otheme above said.

Agree about the unstructured/light padding. My LP cashmere unstructured fits me perfectly!

Deets on Paoloni? Never heard satisfied.gif

The jackets look great on you although a little short for my taste
post #199 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by otheme View Post

Thomaspaine, the narrow lapel you asked for actually works against a slim profile, because they make your shoulders look wider (which are already wide to begin with). Also, the structured shoulder makes it worse. The sleeve hole/head seems to be cut a bit too big/loose. The chest could be taken in a little. All these things should have been communicated and emphasized to the tailor during the basted fitting (I always ask for the thinnest shoulder pads).

Shouldn't the tailor be the one that's noticing these issues during the basted fitting?
post #200 of 235
Based on my experience Spoon tends to be on the more conservative side and give their first-time customers a more "boxy" cut in the first round. The basted fitting is when you pour out all the details, and make all the changes you want. If you don't tell them how you want to change things they'd assume that you are happy with the cut.

I used to give them all the details at the beginning (arm hole, lapel shape, gorge position, etc.), and then I realize that they make the shell based on a quite crude cut and expect to get all the details at the basted fitting. Now when I order something I just give them a picture and pick the fabric. Then I spend a lot more time at the basted fitting to get every detail pinned down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

Shouldn't the tailor be the one that's noticing these issues during the basted fitting?
post #201 of 235
Moi moi Uunottaja! You've got an excellent blog with a lot of substance. I spent one summer in Helsinki years ago and it was an unforgettable experience (mixed sex sauna, salmiakki and all). If you ever come to the San Francisco bay area let me know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uunottaja View Post

I'm honored, thank you. The jacket in question is an unstructured Paoloni jacket made out of wool flannel.

If the setting is casual and the person in question has wider or more athletic shoulders, I would always go for a very lightly padded or totally unstructured shoulder myself. The round shoulder line flatters this kind of physique more than anything else. Also pretty much what otheme above said.
post #202 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by otheme View Post

Moi moi Uunottaja! You've got an excellent blog with a lot of substance. I spent one summer in Helsinki years ago and it was an unforgettable experience (mixed sex sauna, salmiakki and all). If you ever come to the San Francisco bay area let me know.

Heh, hello hello. I was actually in SF just last spring (Just missed the StyleForum get together). A lovely city, I have to say, and one of the styliest too.

And about the Paoloni. It's an Italian brand making Lubiam or Boglioli like stuff for a lower price. The quality is alright, sizing quite small. You can find it for good prices at Yoox and other Italian Internet outlets. I personally prefer a semi-bumfreezer, length that covers about 60-60% of my buttocks. In suits a full-length jacket often works better though.
post #203 of 235

Hey Folks,

I am new to this forum and needed to get some input. I just received my first Spoon suit. I am about 5' 7" and weight about 125 lbs and  I have always found it difficult to buy a suit because I am thin. Anyplace I would go to would try to fit me into a 36 regular suit. I looked awful and never wore suits. 

About a month ago I found out about Spoon and decided to visit and buy a suit. I feel that the suit fit better than anything I have ever put on but it is still not perfect. I need the insight from members so I can tell the folks how to adjust the suit. I have attached some pictures. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #204 of 235
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepethepug View Post

Hey Folks,

I am new to this forum and needed to get some input. I just received my first Spoon suit. I am about 5' 7" and weight about 125 lbs and  I have always found it difficult to buy a suit because I am thin. Anyplace I would go to would try to fit me into a 36 regular suit. I looked awful and never wore suits. 

About a month ago I found out about Spoon and decided to visit and buy a suit. I feel that the suit fit better than anything I have ever put on but it is still not perfect. I need the insight from members so I can tell the folks how to adjust the suit. I have attached some pictures. Thanks in advance for your help.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It looks to me the jacket is about a size too large for you. It doesn't look like it was tailored for you. The shoulders are too big, maybe about 1 inch or so. Are there lots of padding? The chest area is also too big. The sleeves look to be too large for your arms. The sleeves are about 1 to 1.5 inches too long. The jacket looks to be a bit too long, too. But because the shoulders are so wide that maybe shorten it will make it looks way wider. Your right shoulder seems to be about an inch lower to the left so when you have them adjust the sleeves lengths, make sure to shorten the right sleeves a bit more than the left one. I personally think the jacket is too boxy for you. How much did the 2 piece cost you? Good luck, buddy.

post #205 of 235

Thanks for your help gentlemen. It ended up costing about 1100 dollars.  I went back to Spoon today and they are fixing the shoulders. They are making them smaller and making sleeves shorter and slimmer.

In the picture I was leaning to one side because I was trying to adjust the camera a sec earlier.

I will keep you guys posted.

Thanks again.

Noel

post #206 of 235
anyone have any new experience with spoon? hows the fabrics/quality of the starter bespoke shirt?
post #207 of 235
Picked up my first shirt from Spoon. Can't make any kind of final judgement until it gets worn/washed a few times, and it should be noted that I don't have much experience with custom shirting, but all in all I think it came out well. This was the entry-level fabric range at a price of $95+tax.

About Me
At 5'5" 140lbs it's typically the length of the arms that is the most annoying part of buying dress shirts off the rack. For comparison, H&M small shirts are ok but a little narrow at the shoulder. JCrew extra-small is good at the shoulders and body but the arms are too long, the cuffs only have one button that makes them far too large, and they have a 13-13.5 collar that lessens my will to live. Honestly I don't know what kind of person has a tiny neck, long arms, and fat wrists, but I digress. And nothing at Banana Republic fits well - although I haven't bought any x-smalls online from them.

In general, the prospect of custom shirts in the $100 ballpark is very appealing to me. From what I understand they do Thomas Mason and other nicer fabrics at $120+tax.

Fabric & Features
Although there is certainly more you could specify, I requested the following:
  • A white, textured fabric with a cross-hatch pattern
  • Spread collar (they asked)
  • No chest pocket (they asked)
  • No darts on the back (they asked)
  • Normal plackets (they asked)
  • Rounded barrel cuff (they asked)
  • Higher armholes than might be their house cut (I asked)
  • A narrower bicep than might be their house cut (I asked)

Experience
My measurements were taken quickly and easily, and the expectations were proper on both sides that tweaks would be expected on the first go. It took three weeks for the shirt to come back. As mentioned prior in this thread, the shirts are made in China and adjusted here. For suits, the fabric is cut here by the master tailor and sent to China for assembly but in all cases the tailoring is done locally.

When the shirt came back it was already looking pretty close. Shoulders needed no adjustment, length seemed shorter to me than usual (but only because of my height - shirts are almost always comically long on me, even the casual ones), and the construction seemed solid. I realized then that the fabric I chose was quite heavyweight and prone to wrinkling. You can seriously pinch this stuff like play-doh and crease it. Suppose that might go away a bit as it gets washed and beat up.

These are the adjustments that we made on the fitting:
  1. Chest taken in about an inch
  2. Armholes raised by about 1/2 inch
  3. Biceps slimmed a bit more
  4. Button moved in on the cuff so that the cuff would be tighter (and I actually think I might go a bit more on this when I visit next as I still want it to sit up a bit more on my wrist)

Final Fit & Photos
Here is the finished product - hope the pictures can convey the fit properly. The arms look a bit long in the picture, but when I asked in the store if we should go shorter he had me do the "raise you arms" test to show where the shirt stops when I do that -- to recommend not going further. I don't think it matters too much, though, since I will only wear this shirt with a jacket, under a sweater, or with the sleeves rolled up anyway.

Definitely interested in feedback I can use for next time, or questions about my experience if you want to know more. Hope this helps anyone considering using Spoon. But no matter what it wouldn't hurt to go over there and talk to them/check out fabrics.







Fit & Fabric Details (Click to show)






Measurement Details (Click to show)
Collar points

Collar back

Cuff

Placket

Edited by jcmeyer - 8/4/13 at 3:55pm
post #208 of 235
Looks like a good shirt. It drapes off the chest nicely. I agree about the arms, seems like there's plenty of length.. maybe too much. That would be my only critique.

You mentioned the fabric is uite heavyweight and prone to wrinkling... are you satisfied with the quality of fabric? Does it feel nice to the skin?
post #209 of 235
I think it feels nice. It's not rough at all, just a bit stiff. I have relatively limited knowledge about fabric quality on the whole, but I'd imagine this is just one of those thicker shirts due to the weave, and I'd be inclined to believe they're not all this way. They have all of the fabric books for you to review; you're not choosing from a picture or anything.

I'll see what they say about the sleeve length. Not sure how much is the length and how much is the thickness of the fabric but I do tend to think it could be shorter as you've agreed.

I'm having a linen one done now to see how a more unstructured shirt goes. I'll send over these pics as reference and post the linen when I get it in a couple of weeks.

Hope that helps!
post #210 of 235
Are the fabric qualities different in every book (e.g. is one Thomas Mason?) How well does the fabric move with you?

After second look, the length of the arm doesn't look bad. Just longer than my taste.
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