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post #181 of 231
When you request for a slight concave shape, or a "horse saddle" shape, for the shoulders, the tailor will remove some fabric, and actually make the shoulder more or less flat. Right now there is a bulge on your shoulder, and I am assuming your shoulder shape is squarish, like mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mghani View Post

The divots are on both sides but the one on the left is a bit more prominent, thanks for the link, I did come across that during my searches on the issue.

I got an email response from the folks at spoon basically providing the same resolution for the issue, removing, possibly re-cutting, and re-position the sleeve at the arm hole.  I am heading back there this Friday, could you explain a bit more what the result of requesting "shoulder line to be slight concave" and what I should expect back based on the request?

Thanks for the information!
post #182 of 231
Quote:
Originally Posted by otheme View Post

When you request for a slight concave shape, or a "horse saddle" shape, for the shoulders, the tailor will remove some fabric, and actually make the shoulder more or less flat. Right now there is a bulge on your shoulder, and I am assuming your shoulder shape is squarish, like mine.

Thanks otheme, hopefully this cam be fixed and I can post some updated pics and feedback on the experience.
post #183 of 231

has anyone ordered CMT garments from Spoon Tailor?  I had a suit made with a suiting selected from one of their books, but I'd be interested to hear about someone's experience supplying their own fabric. 

post #184 of 231
Does anyone else have pictures of well-fitting suits/jackets, or anecdotes about your experience, that they would like to share? I'm interested in a local bespoke tailor and Spoon has good feedback here, but the results on this thread seem to be pretty poor.

edit: Went and talked to Andrew today and had a good experience. He showed me the a range of fabrics including Valentino, Scatex, Wain Shiell, Dormeil, LP. They also carry Scabal and Holland & Sherry.

Valentino and Scatex (sp?) are their lower-end stuff and I can't find any discussion of their fabrics here. I'll probably be going with Wain Shiell which seems to be a good quality value line.
Edited by Liquidus - 12/5/12 at 4:57pm
post #185 of 231
Liquidus,
I don't know how well-versed you are in suits (construction, style, person preferences and be able to communicate what you want). If you don't know what you are doing then Spoon Tailor will not be able to give you a good experience. If you know what you are doing then you will have a blast at Spoon Tailor.

I would recommend bringing in your favorite suit for your first purchase. They can make the copy and tweak it to the way you want it to be. I hope this helps smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

Does anyone else have pictures of well-fitting suits/jackets, or anecdotes about your experience, that they would like to share? I'm interested in a local bespoke tailor and Spoon has good feedback here, but the results on this thread seem to be pretty poor.
edit: Went and talked to Andrew today and had a good experience. He showed me the a range of fabrics including Valentino, Scatex, Wain Shiell, Dormeil, LP. They also carry Scabal and Holland & Sherry.
Valentino and Scatex (sp?) are their lower-end stuff and I can't find any discussion of their fabrics here. I'll probably be going with Wain Shiell which seems to be a good quality value line.

Edited by tombking - 12/6/12 at 9:17am
post #186 of 231
Quote:
Originally Posted by tombking View Post

Liquidus,
I don't know how well-versed you are in suits (construction, style, person preferences and be able to communicate what you want). If you don't know what you are doing then Spoon Tailor will not be able to give you a good experience. If you know what you are doing then you will have a blast at Spoon Tailor.

Your reply was for a different poster, but this seems like a good spot to jump in:

I've recently moved to San Francisco. I've had some suits made in the past, but I definitely don't know what I'm doingl I know just enough to be dangerous. biggrin.gif So here's a shout-out to any SF folk in SF (StyleForum and San Francisco, respectively) - wanna help me get an awesome suit? I'll beer and food you!
post #187 of 231

Hello!  Firstly, thanks to everyone who has posted such detailed and useful comments on Spoon Tailor.  I would love the advice of the group on a question that has been raised before, WW Chan visiting tailor or Spoon tailor for bespoke suits.  I recognise that there is unlikely to be a single answer for everyone on that question - so some background on my situation below:

 

1) Relative to the average user of this forum, I would describe myself as a novice.  I did four suits and maybe 10 shirts from Raja about 3 years ago (yes, huge mistake, should have read the forum, they upsold me... that being said HUGE improvement over the sh*t I used to wear!)  That being said, I'm certain that the fit wasn't perfect (just way better than anything I'd had before).  2) In most of the photos pasted in this thread, I would not by eye be able to spot the issues that have been raised - so if one is likely to get a better fit out of the gate (instead of through multiple iterations) that would probably be better for me.

2) I will be looking to purchase 2 additional suits with a flexible budget but figure 2k ish or under (and probably a slew of shirts - either from the same place or a different one)

3) I am not particularly stressed about paying a bit extra (hunded or so?) for better workmanship and/or and easier process

 

In terms of styling/fabric on the suits, I will likely come back for more advice once I settle on a maker, but at the risk of being shamed in front of the group, of the suits I purchased from Raja I quite liked the look & feel of the Zegna fabric so if it were Spoon would likely go for LP.

 

Please let me know if any other information is useful and thanks in advance for any advice folks have!

post #188 of 231
Quote:
Originally Posted by malat View Post

Holy hipster, san francisco!! Yikes.
I think the button point on that jacket is too high. The short length of the jacket makes the odd proportions more severe; perhaps patch pockets would have worked better with such a short jacket. The way the pockets are squeezing up your torso is visually unflattering to your body's proportions. I would definitely start by asking for the waist suppression to be relaxed and then see if they can clean up some of the extra fabric around your blades.
I've had great luck with the tailor at Spoon on Sacramento taking directions, but I'm not sure this one can be salvaged considering the proportions of the cut. It honestly looks like an orphaned suit jacket that you grew out of many years ago. Good luck!

Totally agree with this comment. Holy hipster SF! Haha smile.gif

It's off because of what you asked for. That jacket is waayyyyyyyyyyy too short but because you asked for a shorter jacket and slimmer lapels the hourglass "look" is what you got. Yes, the button stance is too high but guess what...that's the whole "new" / hipster look anyway.

However, for people who like that "new" look then this looks fine to me.
post #189 of 231
I think they just went overboard on the waist suppression trying to make it slim. I have a Thom Browne blazer that's shorter, slimmer, and with a higher button stance that doesn't create an hourglass silhouette, so I don't think I asked them to create something impoosible, although in hindsight it's probably too far away from their house cut to expect good results. I get it back next week so hopefully they were able to resolve the issue...
post #190 of 231
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin78 View Post

Hello!  Firstly, thanks to everyone who has posted such detailed and useful comments on Spoon Tailor.  I would love the advice of the group on a question that has been raised before, WW Chan visiting tailor or Spoon tailor for bespoke suits.  I recognise that there is unlikely to be a single answer for everyone on that question - so some background on my situation below:

1) Relative to the average user of this forum, I would describe myself as a novice.  I did four suits and maybe 10 shirts from Raja about 3 years ago (yes, huge mistake, should have read the forum, they upsold me... that being said HUGE improvement over the sh*t I used to wear!)  That being said, I'm certain that the fit wasn't perfect (just way better than anything I'd had before).  2) In most of the photos pasted in this thread, I would not by eye be able to spot the issues that have been raised - so if one is likely to get a better fit out of the gate (instead of through multiple iterations) that would probably be better for me.
2) I will be looking to purchase 2 additional suits with a flexible budget but figure 2k ish or under (and probably a slew of shirts - either from the same place or a different one)
3) I am not particularly stressed about paying a bit extra (hunded or so?) for better workmanship and/or and easier process

In terms of styling/fabric on the suits, I will likely come back for more advice once I settle on a maker, but at the risk of being shamed in front of the group, of the suits I purchased from Raja I quite liked the look & feel of the Zegna fabric so if it were Spoon would likely go for LP.

Please let me know if any other information is useful and thanks in advance for any advice folks have!

If you re willing to wait till March for Chan to visit San Francisco then I'd go with them as they can guide you towards a style you like. I've never dealt with Spoon so no comment.
post #191 of 231

Update on my blazer, having the waist let out seems to have fixed the hourglass problem. Silhouette is still not exactly great and armholes are very low, but I don't think anything else can be done at this point. They could not fix the chest rippling and seemed to be confused about it, thought it might be a pressing issue.

 

I took it to Andreas Gorges who does my alterations for his opinion. He says it's because the fabric is being stretched too tightly over the canvas, causing the excess canvas to ripple underneath. I guess I should take it back to them but this will be my 5th or 6th time going there and I'm kind of tired of it at this point and I don't know if it'll actually get fixed. I mentioned the excess fabric rippling around the pockets last time and they didn't fix that either... 

 

post #192 of 231
Thomaspaine, the narrow lapel you asked for actually works against a slim profile, because they make your shoulders look wider (which are already wide to begin with). Also, the structured shoulder makes it worse. The sleeve hole/head seems to be cut a bit too big/loose. The chest could be taken in a little. All these things should have been communicated and emphasized to the tailor during the basted fitting (I always ask for the thinnest shoulder pads).

Here is a pic of a well fitting jacket on someone of a similar physique:

post #193 of 231
Thank you, live and learn I suppose. I'll keep that in mind next time.
post #194 of 231
Quote:
Originally Posted by otheme View Post

Thomaspaine, the narrow lapel you asked for actually works against a slim profile, because they make your shoulders look wider (which are already wide to begin with). Also, the structured shoulder makes it worse. The sleeve hole/head seems to be cut a bit too big/loose. The chest could be taken in a little. All these things should have been communicated and emphasized to the tailor during the basted fitting (I always ask for the thinnest shoulder pads).

Here is a pic of a well fitting jacket on someone of a similar physique:


That is a great jacket and look. Deets?

COuldn't agree more about Thomaspaine's issue. He already has wide shoulders so the addition of a narrow lapel and pads does not make any sense. Honestly, I hate narrow lapels but whatever floats one's boat. The chest does need to be taken in a little so I'm surprised Andreas didn't. He's a well known and highly skilled tailor so that seems odd.
post #195 of 231
Quote:
Originally Posted by k4lnamja View Post


That is a great jacket and look. Deets?

 

It's an image from http://thenordicfit.blogspot.fi/ (specifically, http://thenordicfit.blogspot.fi/2012/12/another-light-brown-and-blue.html). Great blog. 

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