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Viberg Boots - Page 965

post #14461 of 19829

Hello Viberg aficionados, I’m curious if someone might be able to help explain a few questions I have about various Viberg service boot make ups after searching the thread I came up a bit short. I’ve been lucky to have found a few pairs of service boots in person to get sizing down, but I’m holding off until I can wrap my head around what I really want from such an investment.

 

First of all, can someone explain the difference between fat waxed vs. slim waxed flesh? Does this refer to the thickness of the leather? 

 

For those with multiple pairs, are the thicknesses of most leathers used on a service boot consistent? I’m curious in regards to break in period. The pairs I’ve tried on have been a noticeably burly, thick leather, I was curious if this is emblematic of Viberg’s process or if perhaps it was just the pair I happened upon. 

 

Would anyone be able to describe the difference in how natural CXL differs from a similarly shaded chromepak in terms of wear? Any reason to prefer one over the other if the goal is to have a classic brown leather boot?

 

Also, going back a few years, I like the aesthetic of the Viberg x Nigel Cabourn makeup, does anyone know what the characteristics of this leather/style are? Is this a waxed flesh with the wax almost completely worn off, or did they do some additional distressing to a roughout or a suede perhaps to display that nice worn look? Any idea what the leather was? 

 

 

Any input is greatly appreciated!

post #14462 of 19829
There is no difference betwern the leather thickness of slim & fat waxed flesh boots. It was the name given to the boots to differentiate between two makeups.
post #14463 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

With the current round in production, I may start discussions for a new round of Styleforum GMTOs very soon.  Stay tuned, gentlemen.


Enough with the fey plum calf-skin derbies sporting pointy elfin toes.  Give me a burly shoe for walking the dog in the rain:

 

110 last, stitch down, oil-tanned brown, brogued cap-toe, Vibram Bologna sole

post #14464 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by wonsmithr8 View Post

There is no difference betwern the leather thickness of slim & fat waxed flesh boots. It was the name given to the boots to differentiate between two makeups.


To expound....the 2 different boots were on different lasts:  110 vs 2030. 

 

leather thickness in the uppers is definitely on the thicker side so expect some good old fashioned break in time with your beefy leather boots. 

 

Natty CXL can vary from pretty light to almost brown and any shade in between.  chromepak undergoes a different tanning process and is more oily to the touch and seems to be more consistent in color.  the cool thing about my olive chromepak is that they appear to change color in the sun.  for a classic brown boot, i don't think you can go wrong with either, but a really light colored natty CXL will need some good wear to get your preferred shade of brown.

post #14465 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemononame View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

With the current round in production, I may start discussions for a new round of Styleforum GMTOs very soon.  Stay tuned, gentlemen.


Enough with the fey plum calf-skin derbies sporting pointy elfin toes.  Give me a burly shoe for walking the dog in the rain:

 

110 last, stitch down, oil-tanned brown, brogued cap-toe, Vibram Bologna sole

ACK...that is the shoe I want and yes I would take it in plum! I like the cap toe a whole lot....Would love this in the next round of GMTO..pref with the Horse Butt context used :)

post #14466 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by spenno View Post
 

Hello Viberg aficionados, I’m curious if someone might be able to help explain a few questions I have about various Viberg service boot make ups after searching the thread I came up a bit short. I’ve been lucky to have found a few pairs of service boots in person to get sizing down, but I’m holding off until I can wrap my head around what I really want from such an investment.

 

First of all, can someone explain the difference between fat waxed vs. slim waxed flesh? Does this refer to the thickness of the leather? 

 

For those with multiple pairs, are the thicknesses of most leathers used on a service boot consistent? I’m curious in regards to break in period. The pairs I’ve tried on have been a noticeably burly, thick leather, I was curious if this is emblematic of Viberg’s process or if perhaps it was just the pair I happened upon. 

 

Would anyone be able to describe the difference in how natural CXL differs from a similarly shaded chromepak in terms of wear? Any reason to prefer one over the other if the goal is to have a classic brown leather boot?

 

Also, going back a few years, I like the aesthetic of the Viberg x Nigel Cabourn makeup, does anyone know what the characteristics of this leather/style are? Is this a waxed flesh with the wax almost completely worn off, or did they do some additional distressing to a roughout or a suede perhaps to display that nice worn look? Any idea what the leather was? 

 

 

Any input is greatly appreciated!


Slim waxed was on a the slimmer 2030 last, fat was on the fatter 110 last.  Very different fits, in my experience -- I don't fit the 2030 very well.

 

Thickness of the leather used varies greatly I believe, though I've only seen 3 pairs live -- others can address.  I've read somewhere on this site that the thicker leather survives the stitch down manufacturing process better, so Viberg prefers the Goodyear welt process for thinner leathers.

 

That Cabourn boot is not waxed flesh.  It is some sort of distressed leather, perhaps distressed aged bark?  I say distress your own damn boots by wearing them.  It reminds me of the fad I read about in Japan where you could pay someone to splash mud on your SUV.


Edited by nemononame - 12/2/15 at 10:03am
post #14467 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemononame View Post
 


Slim waxed was on a the slimmer 2030 last, fat was on the fatter 110 last.  Very different fits, in my experience -- I don't fit the 2030 very well.

 

Thickness of the leather used varies greatly I believe, though I've only seen 3 pairs live -- others can address.  I've read somewhere on this site that the thicker leather survives the stitch down manufacturing process better, so Viberg prefers the Goodyear welt process for thinner leathers.

 

That Cabourn boot is not waxed flesh.  It is some sort of distressed leather, perhaps distressed aged bark?  I say distress you're own damn boots by wearing them.  It reminds me of the fad I read about in Japan where you could pay someone to splash mud on your SUV.

It's aged bard that was pre-distressed with oils, and the eyelets were corroded in acid.

post #14468 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post
 

ACK...that is the shoe I want and yes I would take it in plum! I like the cap toe a whole lot....Would love this in the next round of GMTO..pref with the Horse Butt context used :)

 

Horse butt -- now we're talkin'

 

I do think oil tan leather is under-rated though, perhaps because of its abundant use in real workboots.  I've got a pair of derbys made with it, and it is super durable.  Just a light, semi-gloss and dyed through -- you can scuff and bump it a ton and it just gives it a patina, not a "worn at a construction site" look.  Harder than the fatty chromexcel and calf too, so it resists surface abrasion better.

post #14469 of 19829

 

1035 last derby

brogue captoe with pinking

brass eyelets

stitchdown construction

daintite sole

 

Lets wait to see if we have any special leather options.

post #14470 of 19829
YES, YES , YES!

Enough with the fey plum calf-skin derbies sporting pointy elfin toes.  Give me a burly shoe for walking the dog in the rain:



110 last, stitch down, oil-tanned brown, brogued cap-toe, Vibram Bologna sole
[/quote]
post #14471 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemononame View Post
 

 

Horse butt -- now we're talkin'

 

I do think oil tan leather is under-rated though, perhaps because of its abundant use in real workboots.  I've got a pair of derbys made with it, and it is super durable.  Just a light, semi-gloss and dyed through -- you can scuff and bump it a ton and it just gives it a patina, not a "worn at a construction site" look.  Harder than the fatty chromexcel and calf too, so it resists surface abrasion better.


I would like to see more of the horsebutt hide used.  I own a pair of the Context horsebutt and it's definitely the toughest hide I've owned except for elephant.  It is a fairly stiff hide, and combined with the cork sole it takes a good while to break them in.  Just saying there is baggage that comes with tougher/thicker hides.

 

Steve

post #14472 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

Boondocker in a roughout or a horsehide with a corded sole on anything except the 2030. I know -- not very creative, but really what I want.

2045 or 110 would be lovely. And, for the love of all that is holy, no unstructured toe.

 

I would also love seeing a SF version of the Red Dog ScoutBoots: https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/4053/red-dog-rough-out-scout-boot

2045 or 110. Partially or Structured toe. Commando sole. Speedhooks.

post #14473 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemononame View Post


Enough with the fey plum calf-skin derbies sporting pointy elfin toes.  Give me a burly shoe for walking the dog in the rain: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

110 last, stitch down, oil-tanned brown, brogued cap-toe, Vibram Bologna sole

I would definitely buy another pair like this in the style of the japanese work oxford, but a slightly different aesthetic, darker leather, and cap toe.
post #14474 of 19829
Quote:
Originally Posted by meso View Post


I would definitely buy another pair like this in the style of the japanese work oxford, but a slightly different aesthetic, darker leather, and cap toe.


my wallet can't handle it!!!

 

my HJs are my favorite shoes ever. 

post #14475 of 19829
Mine too. The 110 last fits better for me on an oxford than a boot, too. Maybe just because I can lace them a little tighter across the vamp.
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