Viberg Boots - Page 95
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I prefer the clean and simple look of plain toe 1950 service boots (no box toe, dainite sole, 2030 last, 6 eyelets, natural sole edge) over the brogue cap-toes.
Tate+Yoko had one in black calf:
And then there was the brown version at Superdenim
I'll wait a month or two before ordering more Vibergs, but if there will be enough interest then, perhaps we could do also something like those two, but in either icy mocha cxl, some thick horse hide or shell cordovan (would prefer walnut, #8 or black scotch grain cordovan as I already ordered black cordovan 1940 service boots from manufactum.de).
i actually think anything handcut AND in cordovan would be crazy expensive -- even if the MTO fee is waved. were talking about $1K easy. and if thats the case, wed be hard pressed to come up with numbers.
Im all for cordovan though.
Heres what im suggesting -- An all whiskey version of the pebble grain service boot currently available at Viberg in all black.
there is a whiskey with a smoothed out cordovan on the toe and counter available as well, but its not as nice as the all pebble grained version. this is also not a new idea... there was a sample made for the Berlin show last year, and its the one i contacted Guy about during the sample sale. Thing is Brett Viberg himself kept that pair- he posts enough photos of them all the time on ig.
Now does he want to share the look? i wouldnt. lol. but we should give it a shot.
Morgan and I had a short email exchange last week pertaining to shell cordovan and this exact makeup.
"Unfortunately there is no Cordovan available for MTO products."
I am confident that Viberg is receiving serious inquiries about Shell Cordovan MTO's, not just from SF members.
The cordovan Morgan Super Boots (both in Whiskey Cordovan and Cordovan #8) were done in the same last as this pebble super boot. The only difference is that the Super Boot has a top band which on necks to a cordovan tongue. I had a pair of the 2030 Cordovan # 8 with a soft thin bellows tongue and, even with constant care and trees, the flat toe and narrow build of the 2030 just didn't hold up very well. They're beautiful when they're new, but the unstructured toe tends to be prone to indentation. I would stick with the 2040 or 2045, but that is just my opinion.
Cordovan is expensive and hard to come by and Viberg will only commit to making them when their schedule and inventory allows for it. Getting whiskey from Horween is impossible currently.
If they could do it, I would get a horsehide 2045 with perforated cap toe and horsehide tongue. I like their 7 and 10 eyelet boots. In my opinion, unless you're stuck on cordovan, Viberg's Chromexcel Boots are just as nice, look great and hold up. Talk to Morgan. The man has great taste and between Brett and Morgan, they'll help create a beautiful boot that's within your price range. Viberg is an absolute amazing operation. I was an Alden, Tricker's, Julian and RRL boot guy before entering the realm of Viberg. I will never go back. In the next year, they'll start creating lasts as formal as Alden and they will blow our socks off! Can't wait!
The 1950 vs. the 1940 service boot distinction (essentially, it had to do with whether there was a contrasting leather trim at the ankle) has now been removed. At least, that was what I go from mu conversation with Guy. Also, the standard number of eyelets of 7. They found that the six-eyelet configuration made for an accordion effect, because the eyelets were spaced far apart. So I would recommend 7+ eyelets, but these choices are all up to you.
re. the toecap, it depends on what you guys want and as willing to buy.
Thanks for all that information Fok!
I've been in the impression that the difference between 1940 and 1950 service boot is in the eyelet configuration.
(These are the 1940 Service boots made for Manufactum.de I mentioned earlier)
I think you're pretty spot on there, Joona.
I received this answer from Morgan when I asked about the difference between 1940 and 1950 service boot
"The 1940 has 5 eyelets and no top band. The 1950 has either 6,7,8 or 10 eyelets and the top band is optional. Personally, I prefer the 1950 with no top band and if you're looking to dress it up slightly I would suggest 7 or 10 eyelets."
However those 1940s you posted don't appear to have a top band... maybe it's optional on them too?
7 eyelets is fine and I especially like the idea of the cap toe.
I am leaning more toward a 2030 last and hate the idea of 310 last. -simple google search- (pic of 310 last included in this post)
Any more input on this Mocha Chromexcel service boot?
38fe4452.jpg 93k .jpg file
Sure Arizor, I'll list the specs that I am aware for those 2 black boots. Also, leather options for a black service boot are at the moment (at least for single MTO) Black Oil Tan and Black Chromexcel.
The Manufactum's 1940 Service Boots:
- to my understanding, 2030 last
- black shell cordovan upper (note that the togue is not made of cordovan)
- Unlined shaft, front area lined with calfskin
- partial box toe/partially structured toe, meaning that "It basically covers the edge of the front end" as Morgan put it.
- dainite sole
- natural single midsole
- 5 eyelets, no top band
Tate+Yoko 1950 Service Boot
- 2030 last
- black calf leather
- to my understanding, no box toe/unconstructed toe
- natural single midsole
- 6 eyelets
There is also single MTO black cordovan 1950 Service Boot you might be interested, but I don't know the specs for sure (you could ask about them directly from inquire at SuFu, if needed):