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Bespoke/MTM in NYC - Page 5

post #61 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman View Post
Greenfield is a great chioce, but you need an introduction. Wink, wink. Carl is right. Greenfield is in an industrial area bordering on a housing project. Not exactly the best part of town. You may elect cab or car service. But you'll only need one fitting.
Nonsense My Wife and I live a few blocks away the place is full of artists, coffee shops, hats and tats. I even ate foi gras at Robertas the other night.
post #62 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by yarnsforth View Post

Has anyone had experience with Louis Purple MTM?

There is a small store on Lafayette St., north of Houston.

Bump - Louis Purple produces their suits in Europe and they call it "semi-bepoke". 

 

Anyone had experience?

post #63 of 80

Thanks for all the info, everyone. I'm about to move to the city in some months, and it's good to know the possibilities. I'm still a bit confused though about the whole bespoke/MTM debate. XD

 

As far as I understand, MTM is an outsourced deal, with the garments made in a factory as per custom order, based on an existing cut with variable parameters. I believe it may be hard (or impossible) to get a floating canvas this way, given that in the end it's a factory-made suit.

"Full" bespoke is a tailor creating a cut based on your wishes and body irregularities, and making you a suit in his workshop, hand sewn by him or his apprentices.

I'm sure there are steps inbetween, such as tailors who only do hand sewing when absolutely necessary, and otherwise use machines, etc. Maybe some leave the lengthy planning stage out, and using a pre-made pattern, but still make the suit by hand - that would be MTM in reality, but may be virtually indistinguishable from "true" bespoke.

 

It might make sense to categorize the tailors collected by "factory outsourcing / in-house artisan work", and "choosing or mix-and-matching a fixed pattern / custom pattern with lots of thinking together and handholding".

 

Oh and just out of curiosity, is there someone in NYC who does Neapolitan cuts, with spalla camicia and all? :)

post #64 of 80
MTM is simply taking an existing pattern and tweaking it. Think of it like being able to get a size 39.5 rather than a 39 or 40. You can usually tweak other things that do not alter the basic pattern (pockets, etc), but by and large, you are getting the same suit as everyone else that uses that manufacturer, just with your own measurements. This has nothing to do with canvassing, handwork, etc. There are some very, very high end MTM operations made entirely by hand (almost all of the high end manufacturers have MTM programs, including Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, etc). There is also crappy machine made MTM (e.g. Indochino) with suits that are on par with Jos A Bank in terms of quality.

Bespoke has a custom pattern just for you, cut from scratch. You can customize anything. A tailor will have a default house style they skew towards, but should in theory be able to do anything. Given that this is already a very manual process, these suits tend to be very high quality.
post #65 of 80

This thread has been a great read for a newcomer like me. 

 

Thanks guys for the expert knowledge shared here. I am just getting ready to try MTM.  And I live in NYC so the info in perfect.  Also it sounds like I can get nice MTM shirts from Shirtmaven in the 150-200 range.  I should be visiting him soon.

 

A few questions: The OP wants a MTM suit in 1600-1800 price range and people have posted some good tailors that offer this. (1)  If I want to get a jacket and/or trousers separately, what are the ballpark price ranges for each, assuming the same type of tailor?  400-600 for pants?  1000-1200 for jackets?

 I

I stuggle with fitting:  my waist is 34 but I have broad thighs so I usually need to size up to 36.  Combined with m relatively short legs, then the trouser's rise needs to be shortened. (2) My question:  should a good MTM tailor be able to work with this type of body type? 

 

I recently purchased a pair of trousers from Phineas Cole and a classic navy suit (on sale for $650!).  Their tailors think they can make this work - I will know in about two weeks.  But at the full price Phineas Cole, it sounds like I can also get solid MTM options, too.  (3)  Any sense on the tradeoffs between Phineas and MTM?

 

Finally I like the more modern suit cut - Phineas is good but I also lean towards the Black Fleece or BB Fitzgerald cuts.  (4) How does one approach MTM tailors with such a preference?  I expect I should stay well in their comfort zones.  Any suggestions on MTM tailors that do more modern cuts?

 

Thanks again for the expertise shared in this thread.

post #66 of 80

"P.S. Don't apologize for not being able to drop $5,000 for a suit. 99.9% of this forum cannot! With the danger of being excommunicated from here, there are things more important than clothes."

 

BURN the Heretic!

 

actually a great point

post #67 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ennius View Post

This thread has been a great read for a newcomer like me. 

Thanks guys for the expert knowledge shared here. I am just getting ready to try MTM.  And I live in NYC so the info in perfect.  Also it sounds like I can get nice MTM shirts from Shirtmaven in the 150-200 range.  I should be visiting him soon.

A few questions: The OP wants a MTM suit in 1600-1800 price range and people have posted some good tailors that offer this. (1)  If I want to get a jacket and/or trousers separately, what are the ballpark price ranges for each, assuming the same type of tailor?  400-600 for pants?  1000-1200 for jackets?
 I
I stuggle with fitting:  my waist is 34 but I have broad thighs so I usually need to size up to 36.  Combined with m relatively short legs, then the trouser's rise needs to be shortened. (2) My question:  should a good MTM tailor be able to work with this type of body type? 

I recently purchased a pair of trousers from Phineas Cole and a classic navy suit (on sale for $650!).  Their tailors think they can make this work - I will know in about two weeks.  But at the full price Phineas Cole, it sounds like I can also get solid MTM options, too.  (3)  Any sense on the tradeoffs between Phineas and MTM?

Finally I like the more modern suit cut - Phineas is good but I also lean towards the Black Fleece or BB Fitzgerald cuts.  (4) How does one approach MTM tailors with such a preference?  I expect I should stay well in their comfort zones.  Any suggestions on MTM tailors that do more modern cuts?

Thanks again for the expertise shared in this thread.
Since you are difficult to fit, MTM should be great for you. They should be able to tweak the rise, waist and thighs of the pants (though a higher rise usually helps people with short legs look taller, so you may not want to mess with that).

An MTM service usually has several cuts and makers from which to choose. Some allow more tweaking than others. I personally have used LS Men's in NYC. They let you tweak just about anything: trouser rise, lapels, pockets, vents, lining, etc. I don't have first-hand experience with Suit Supply, but have heard good things. For the style and cut you are looking for, they may be your best bet. I'm not sure how customizable they are, though. I was getting fitted for a jacket, and they couldn't change the lapel style ( I wanted peak) and probably not the width either.

As far as the difference between MTM and Phineaus Cole, it depends on the MTM maker, but generally the PC will give you a better finish with nicer detailing.
post #68 of 80

msulinski,

 

Thanks for the advice.  I will check out both LS and Suit Supply.

post #69 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman View Post


Quote:


Originally Posted by leftover_salmon View Post

* * *


And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.






Here are some possibilities:


1. LS Mens Clothes. The suits are made by outside factories, such as H. Freeman & Son, Southwick, Coppley, and a local workshop. They also do shirts. I have used them and can recommend them. You will easily get a suit within your price range.

I used them once and was completely unimpressed.

]
post #70 of 80
Hello guys,
I need a seersucker suit MTM - or OTR with modification, but I usually start with XS and have it taken in - in NYC.
I guess online is okay if I can save hundreds of bucks on it... smile.gif can you suggest a good place to look?
post #71 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJosef View Post

Hello guys,
I need a seersucker suit MTM - or OTR with modification, but I usually start with XS and have it taken in - in NYC.
I guess online is okay if I can save hundreds of bucks on it... smile.gif can you suggest a good place to look?

 

For seersucker, you may want to consider J Press OTR. 

post #72 of 80
For MTM suits or jackets in NYC in the $750 -$1,200 range try Proper Suit. Here is my recent review of a jacket they did for me. They offer exceptional value and quality from an experienced team of associates.

http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/post/56694083116/proper-suit-jacket-review-by-gus
post #73 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

For MTM suits or jackets in NYC in the $750 -$1,200 range try Proper Suit. Here is my recent review of a jacket they did for me. They offer exceptional value and quality from an experienced team of associates.

http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/post/56694083116/proper-suit-jacket-review-by-gus

 

+1

post #74 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

You're pricing expectation is unrealistic. The big name NYC tailors charge $5-6k a suit. In your budget, you can do MTM, Mr. Ned, Ercole, or W.W. Chan. Being picky isn't an option unless you want to spend significantly more.


I'm perplexed by the specificity of your geographical preference. There are so few good bespoke tailors in the U.S., nonetheless Manhattan, I'd think you'd be willing to sit on the subway a few extra stops to get to the right guy.

Franco Ercole does bespoke, not MTM. When I went to his website 2 months ago, it listed the starting price for a bespoke suit at about $2,500 (give or take $100).

Also, when I went to his website 2 months ago, the website stated that all manufacturing for all tailored garments (not just suits) is done on the premises and not outsourced (just like it is with the best Italian bespoke tailors). According to my own personal research, the best Italian bespoke tailors have a minimum starting price of €2,000 (which, with the current exchange rate between the Euro and the United States Dollar, is approximately $2,600) for a bespoke suit.

Also, FWIW, according to my own personal research, the best Italian bespoke tailors make up for 95% of bespoke tailors throughout Italy.
Edited by OxxfordSJLINY - 7/28/13 at 6:37pm
post #75 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


Quote:


Bespoke tailors are rare these days. The few there are in the U.S. are largely concentrated in Manhattan, so they can charge a lot.

In the United States of America, yes, bespoke tailors are rare these days and primarily in Manhattan, New York.

However, in England and Italy, no matter where you are, you are never more than 10 miles away from the nearest bespoke accessory, clothing and shoe makers. In these two countries, there always has been and always will be a huge market for bespoke accessories, clothing and shoes. England and Italy are equally the world's future of bespoke accessories, clothing and shoes. Several members of SF and all other fashion and style message boards have said all of this a countless number of times. And, according to my own personal research, it is completely true.

Edited by OxxfordSJLINY - 7/28/13 at 6:36pm
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